Mitsubishi Magna Problem

So, I assume (I know) it cranks OK.

When rain is mentioned, I think of moisture / humidity problems. That could mean marginal spark plug wires, a problem with the distributor cap (dirt, crazing), or the ignition coil (or the modern equivalents of the distributor cap and ignition coil).

Cold might also be causing condensation, leading to moisture problems as described above.

Hi rhkramer, I am thinking of the same, but dont know how I can stop the water/moisture getting in. Can you advise of some solutions for your response.

I dont know whether i could fit a heat sink or wrappable heater around it or not which can start prior starting the engine.

Pls. advise.

Those parts of the car (i.e., the ignition coil, the distributor cap, the spark plug wires) are designed to keep moisture out or avoid problems due to moisture. When they no longer do so, they are defective and basically need to be replaced (or in the case of a dirty distributor cap, cleaned.

You won't keep moisture / humidity out of the engine compartment. (Obviously, you don't want to try to operate with the engine exposed to rain or under water ;-)

I hope the problem is one of these--unfortunately,Just an Engineer in post #3 describes another possible cause of the problem. It could be worth changing the parts I mention, or some of them, before trying that solution.

Had a TR Magna for a few years. Problems starting and also you might notice a "fade" in power when costing downhill around 80kph.

The problem gets progressively worse until the car either will not start, or actually engine stops while driving. (Or at least that's the symptoms that I had.)

Based on my father's premise that unless there been mechanical failure, petrol engine have three parameters that are important.

Fuel, air and spark.

Checked air cleaner, all OK

Checked fuel line (checking at manifold immediatley before injectors). Fuel flow excellent.

Checked spark, none apparent (following a stopped while driving incident.)

Untimately, the failure was traced to the BEM (Body Electronics Module) that cost $600 Aus to replace with a reconditioned one or $950 for factory built unit.

Two years after replacement, the reconditioned unit failed with exactly the same symptoms, starting with "fade while coasting" then "missing while driving" then "difficulty starting" then stops while driving" then "impossible to start".

Apparently the problem is so well known that the reconditioning business for the BEMs was doing a thriving trade.

Suggest that checking the BEM might be the path to follow.

Thanks, Just an Engineer; I will check it today.

You could also try spraying your distributor with CRC, WD40 or similar water displacer.

If that helps replace the distributor cap and probably the rotor button as well.

Also try cranking the car at night in the dark with the bonnet open and watch for fireworks - arcing anywhere in the ignition system .... then fix the causes of any arcing.

A few thoughts

Bill

Not familiar with Mitsubishi but my Ford Escape (Mazda) V6 FWD started having a cold
start miss. Checked for similar posts in a Ford forum with many having spent allot of money to no avail but a late post from a mechanic said replace intake manifold gaskets The plugs had over 100,000 and you have to take the intake manifold off to change the back three plugs anyway so I ordered the gaskets intake top and bottom to my surprise was a cost of $13 I was afraid intake removal was going to cost hundreds

The gaskets are some type of silicone rubber, shaped like a rubber band only thicker and about the size of your wrist. Sure enough pulled the plastic intake with gaskets on top and bottom and the gaskets had cracked or turned to jelly and leaking vacuum

I could have waisted over a thousand bucks like the other forum posters by changing a long list of vacuum and ignition controls if it hadn't been for that mechanic's post

Put in new plugs, new gaskets top and bottom 2 1/2 hour job - best $13 bucks I ever spent plus spark plugs but you might check to see if your brand also has a plastic manifold with oring shaped gaskets that turn to butter or crack with age like Ford/Mazda

Try changing the rear three spark plugs.

Mitsubishi fit standard copper plugs on the front three and platinum plugs on the rear. Reason being is that you have to half disassemble the motor to get to them.

So the front plugs get changed every 30,000km and the rear at 120,000km. Most first owners offloaded the cars before that was necessary..

It is a major job to replace the rear plugs most people just replace the car..