Cleaning Small Mechanical Parts

Is this a new purchase?

I will assume yes, and further assume there was no manual included. Try here for manuals on a number of Kansai machines. With some luck, cleaning and lube instructions will be included in the proper manual.

Thank you.

No, its an old machine with very limited time on it. The manuals were not included. The guy I used to go for this , clsoed shop and left for Colorado ( home). No ryhme or reason given.

thank you for the site. I'll give it a try.

Pleased to help. I have an ex Mrs. Doorman who sewed, and I was charged with maintenance of the Juki machine she used... Cantankerous, fussy machines, but when properly adjusted, they really empty those bobbins in a hurry.

I also have a JUKI MO series serger. Its a fast runner and I broke enough needles and loopers before I tamed it.

This Kansai is a monster but it will sew the huge trash zippers I need to install in the nets, faster than the serger.....i still have to hand sew a large portion but the Initial zipper is done on the machine.

If I did not have to install these µ liners inside the back ends ( codends) of these research nets, I would not be faced with all this mess. however, business is business.

One of the spray lubes would be my choice. Enough solvent to loosen up the gunk, but still not let the rust start.

Easy on the air pressure, you may just blow the debris further into the works.

I think that is what happened.....not thinking about where the loose junk would fly.

any ideas on a top end spray lube for this kind of machinery?

I mostly clean guns. But, I live in the desert, so lubrication isn't much of an issue.

I'd say just about any light machine oil will be fine. I apply it with a syringe and needle, not too much. Not much of a fan of WD-40(Disclaimer here) type sprays for lubrication.

Use whatever feels right to you in your environment.

I'll second your reservations on the WD-40. It will dry out. Good for eliminating water and loosening rusted nuts, but it's not a particularly good lubricant.

Well if it's been setting up for as long as you say. I would use a good de-greaser and not worry about the parts that need oil. As the oil on those parts has degraded and dried out. Oils get thick and tacky with age will just add to the build up if left behind. If this build up of debris is going to be problem I would switch to a dry lube. Should be re-lubricated anyway you have no idea when the last time it was done. An automotive de-greaser in a spray can should do to clean and flush the build up off. Just re-lubricate it after.

Makes sense. The build up is gunky in some spots. The bug parts all inside the floor and base lead me to believe it will not clean well anyway.

Total degreasing was not my first choice but you all make a point here. The old grease and lube is dried and caked and should be removed.

What is a classification for 'light machine' oil? Any numbers i should look for? Any brand names that you all have used that work well?

3:1 Oil does everything for me with power tools and such but this is my first rodeo getting this far inside one of these .

Thank you.

If you do use degreaser, re-oil immediately after cleaning.

If pressed, I'd recommend 3-in-1 20w electric motor oil. (Usual disclaimer)

3-in-1 20w electric motor oil

This is something i can get at Lowes or Home Depot in town..... or do I go to an electric supply?

thank you.

They should have it. I get it at Ace Hardware. (not an endorsement)

Is automotive de-greaser the same as the carb cleaner?

No!!!! Automotive degreaser is formulated to be washed off with water. I wouldn't recommend that.

Also, for the bugs, if they're loose, I've taken a shop vac and duct taped a tube/hose to the end for detail vacuuming. It worked great for sucking debris out of the female head bolt holes on an engine block.

And finally, http://www.amazon.com/4-oz-Sewing-Machine-Oil/dp/B000H8Q41Y

One more....this works well to lubricate those hard to reach areas. Go easy with it.

Automotive carb cleaner in a can with the stiff red hose attachment works good to get into those small areas. It will loosen up, and blow out the gunk, and evaporate leaving no oily residue. Watch your eyes.

Automotive carb cleaner...... √

Your right karmarat, old school here forgot they took a lot of the chlorinated de-greasers off the market. CRC electromotive cleaner will do it with out residue.

I wouldn't use spray lithium grease unless the movement called for grease. As it will just collect fibers. Use a light oil. Most are just mineral oil with proprietary additives so just a light mineral oil will do.

Good point on the lithium grease. I use it for all kinds of stuff, but nothing that produces fibers.

There have been many good options spelled out here for you to use. I Prefer to use mineral spirits for these types of operations for the following reasons. It does leave some lubricity once cleaned. It has a pretty good flash point. It will cut most grease and grime with little or no trouble. It can be collected (if possible) and be reused over and over again.

This is the cleaner of choice when I do Aircraft inspections and such.

Thank you. I have used it for decades on cleaning parts in outboard motor repairs and never gave it a thought for this delicate work.

In my "student life" I worked as a sewing machine maintenance person in a 'bag factory', sewing around a million bags per week.

The machines were 'blown out' at shift changeover, with compressed air. There is an art to where and how to do this. De-thread it and run in short bursts, or turn by hand, whilst blowing, is the best way to get rid of compressed/hidden lint. Not getting the nozzle [or your hand] involved, is a bit important.

Once a week an airless sprayer full of 'white spirits' (same as mineral spirits in US) was employed [after a thorough blow job], to 'wet off' all lubricants and 'stuck fibers'.

Same deal - wet down whist running in short bursts - then the lot is re-blown - then discretely re-lubricated with 'sewing machine oil' ~ 20 thingamabobs, in between running in short bursts, to spread the oil and check it's adequate. Too much and you get to wipe it down - as lint will 'compact', become 'felt', and the things rapidly jamb up.

The 'white spirit' will carry the oil into the bearing faces, leaving it there, on evaporation. It's best to do the re-lubrication a day ahead of use, so it's not so 'wet' when you start sewing/lint producing.

Most has been mentioned above - but I just thought the 'procedure' might help.

Many thanks for collaborating what others said.

I worked on the thing last night and managed to break a thread guide off completely.

However, breaking things is one way of learning your way around mechanical devices that are foreign to you.....it is learning what NOT to do.

Thank everyone for the input.

WD-40 spray with nozzle