Auto Paint Finishing.

Usually these sunroof frames are either anodised or powder coated.

Sounds like yours was powdercoated once upon a time and then subsquently "repainted" by a previous owner (or several).

You could try the hi primer route but really your going to have to remove the damaged paint before you put more paint on. As it will only get worse as it ages and will pop back up uglier than before.

Painting is 95% preparation and sweat, 5% paint.

I can't say for sure, but if the existing paint is well adhered, it could be lacquer, which likes to crack. Obviously removing it would be the best, but, I think you could try scuffing it up, cleaning it, applying your high build primer, and physically rubbing it into the cracks. Or you could brush the primer on with a throw away chip brush.......the key is to build it up in those cracks, and work it in, as opposed to just spraying it on.

After it dries, you should be able to sand it smooth and apply your top coat.

This is assuming that it's just cracks in the finish, and not actually separating from the aluminum substrate.

"ideally, it should have the paint completely removed,"

1. Turn top up-side-down.

2. Hook cable or rope to vehicle.

3. Hook cable or rope to top.

4. Go visit a friend down the lane and take your time. Let kids ride in top.

5. After beers, drive home slowly, don't forget the kids.

6. Paint tomorrow.

What ever you decide to do, please do not forget that aluminum is not easy to paint properly and to get it to really "stick" on......

If the paint is not specifically formulated for Alu, then you need to use a primer for Alu that allows normal painting on top.....

I always clean the Alu before priming with denatured alcohol and I do not handle it with my bare hands.....

Cleaning with denatured alcohol (Meths in the UK) is always a good move before any type of painting or glueing I find as it removes quite large amounts of dust, dirt and grease and even small amounts of water......I have forgotten exactly where I first learnt that (Stone age?)

OK guys, after a long break, 8 months, (illness) and plenty procrastination, I looked the problem square on..! and considering the general consensus of your replies, I bit the bullet, bought some paint stripper, and into it. Amazingly, it was surprisingly easy, with the paint being stripped in 4 hours tops. There's an old saying, there is only one way to do a job, and that is the right way...! So thanks guys for your advice much appreciated, we now go on to the next stage. Norm.

Excellent!! Keep us posted.

Hi Guys,

The saga continues. I managed to get the primer on with relatively few probs, however the top coat is proving to a real bugger. The paint is drying before it hits the metal, whilst spraying, it lays down cobwebby over spray ahead of the paint. I've tried all sorts, more air pressure, less air pressure, less paint feed, more paint feed, small fan pattern, large fan pattern, more thinners in paint etc. Does any one have any suggestions...??

I'm using Arylic paint, with a hvlp gun, set at about 30lb

Norm.

Would i get better results using enamel....?

Norm.

Are using an aluminium primer? One that is compatible to your topcoats.

Just a thought but although I have pained a few cars over many years, I have never sprayed alumium.....knowingly anway!

I'm using a high build Etch primer, particularly suit to Aluminium.

Correction, I meant "painted" of course, though some of the cars may feel that the original spelling was FAR more accurate!!!

You need a slower drying reducer. Typically the medium works well.

From a Q&A site:

Q: What is the mixture ratio with Lacquer Thinner for your Acrylic Lacquer Auto paints?

A: Our Acrylic Lacquer Auto paints can be reduced within a range of 4 to 1 to 2 to 1.

That's about right, although buy the reducer that goes specifically with your paint. It sounds to me like you're running the paint too thick. Thin it out within suggested parameters, run it through a cone strainer into your gun, jack your pressure up to about 40PSI, adjust your fan to about 8-10", then on a practice surface (other than the car), run some tests while slowly opening the fluid valve. Once you get it to where you get a nice even pattern with no runs, you're good to go.

Adjust it to where you are comfortable with your passes, and overlap each pass about 50%.

It may help to watch a couple of youtube videos of auto painting being done, so you can get an idea of the rythym involved. It's a bit of a Zen thing.

Ok Guys,

I think I'm on the right track,by turning down the air to 20lb, and an extra dash of thinners, I seem to be getting somewhere near.

I sprayed a panel yesterday, and when viewed from afar, 4 hours later, it looks as though it is wet.

Beautiful gloss finish straight from the gun, cant believe it..!!

Anyway Fellahs, thanks for the help and advice..

Norm

Excellent!! Post some pics for us when she's done.