Is it Possible to cut 20" SS T=6mm with a Grinding Machine?

Yes, but you may want to watch out for introducing grinding particles into the pipe (if this is indeed a pipe).

Thanks Tornado

Yes this was took into account, after finish the job we will proceed to a blow down.

my concern is if we can cut a SS pipe of 6mm thick with just small electrical grinder.

Is someone tried this before?

Are you talking about an angle grinder with a cut off wheel? It will work, but make sure to mark your cut with a pencil or something.......it's easy to get off course.

hi

are you sure? this is stainless steel (304L).

how about the disc used? is it special or simply the one we use for ordinary cut?

thanks a lot

Some are better than others, but it's more a matter of time spent/wheels used, than the quality of the cut. They will all work.

A note of caution: Don't get in a hurry! If you decide to go this way, go slow, straight and steady. When these things shatter, they turn into sharp, high velocity projectiles.

Yes I heart about plasma cutter. could you please give me more information

Thanks

I have a plasma cutter in my plant, but I haven't personally used it. From the operator's point of view, it works pretty much like an oxyacetylene torch for steel, but it can also handle aluminum and stainless steel. A setup is moderately expensive, and maybe not suited to a one-off project. An angle grinder and some disks will be much cheaper for a single task.

In fabrication shops cutting of SS plate/pipes with grinding method using thin cutting wheels is a standard practice. However you can think of using manual arc cutting procedure also. In that case you have to use cutting rods in place of normal welding rods. Plasma cutting requires power source and plasma torch for cutting. Plasma cutting is clean and fastest method of cutting. But Manual arc cutting is easily available and relatively quick.

Adding a bit to this, the process is also called "air-arc gouging." A carbon rod makes an arc that melts the base metal, and an air jet blows the molten metal away. This is inexpensive and noisy, but a skilled operator can produce a fairly smooth cut.

Yes . but "Air-arc gauging" is another process of cutting, I was ref. to metal arc cutting in which electrodes similar to welding electrods are used but they are specially designed for metal cutting. Even for gauging also electrodes are available in market. In this metal arc cutting air is not required. MMAW welder / operator can perform metal arc cutting.

Thank you for clarifying; I was not familiar with the type of metal arc cutting that you meant.

In sum, this gives the OP several ways to accomplish the task at hand. I hope we hear further feedback on the chosen method, and how well it works out.

There are, of course, many types of cut-off wheels. Since you will be needing several, you may end up buying them in a multi-pack. Just read the labels, and it should tell you which are best for stainless steel. I'd recommend the reinforced type.

One thing I'd like to mention is that with material that thick, it will be extremely easy to get off track... and extremely difficult to make track corrections. Unless you hold the grinder at the premium angle in all three axis, you will find yourself drifting before you know it, even if you have the line drawn loud and clear. And trying to correct the cut line, with a disc that thin, will lead to many dangerous and expensive discs snapping before their time.

There are two different methods I use in those kind of situations. The first way is to first score your entire cut line with the disc, maybe 2mm deep. Then cut in dashes. Cut an inch or two... leave an equal sized gap... cut another inch or two... then gap, etc.

When you're done, go back and cut the gaps to connect the previous cuts. It's just a lot easier to stay straight and accurate if the length of cut is short.

The other way is to do as before and cut the entire line 2mm deep. Then go back and cut another 2mm deeper. Finally make your third pass and finish it off.

And of course, it goes without saying... wear proper protection. As someone said, when those discs shatter, they can have very bad consequences. And you can bet anything you'll have some breakage, until you get the hang of it. It's gonna take a while.

On the other hand... plasma is by far the best option, if it is an option.

Thanks a lot for all those details.

I can conclude, we can cut pipe in stainless steel Thikness 6 mm with conventional disc grinder.

am I wrong?

Yes you can..................if no better option is available.

Yes, you can very easily cut 6mm SS by an angle grinder with cutting wheel. Be sure to use protective clothing and head gear. But, among the three options discussed, I put it in second place.

My first option will be plasma cutter. It gives excellent result for cutting SS plates and pipes up to 25mm thickness depending on capacity. It is much faster than any other method and much better cut surface finish, so reducing time for edge preparation by grinding.

The third option could be arc gouging. It is low cost but has two major disadvantages. Very poor cut surface finish and poisonous gas generated which should be avoided while working inside the column.

Yes, it is very easy and simply to cut the 304L SS 20" pipe, 6 mm thickness with a grinding machine.

no you can't cut it with a "grinding" wheel, at least not efficiently. Get a "cutting" wheel, designed for steel. They are thin, about 1mm. Buy 4" D, 10 Pack. It may not be enough, 6MM is tough. I routinely cut SS, usually 2mm sheet, and it takes a while, if you are trying to make a good cut. You are cutting a circle, don't buy a 7" cutoff wheel and side grinder, because the arc will be too small. Once you have the hole cut, though, the grinding process could be done with a 7", and it will be a lot faster. than a 4". Depending on the quality of the finished hole, I would drill a pattern, cut between the holes with the 4", grind them smooth to the arc scribe. BTW, I would use electric side grinders, but the machine shop guys will recommend pneumatic.

Yes, as PFR said, make sure you use a cutting disc, not a grinding disk. Probably about a .046" thickness.

This is going to take a long time and many discs, as has been said. I would recommend you get a face shield as well as goggles or safety glasses. 6mm SS is some pretty tough stuff. And those discs are pretty easy to break, especially if you are forced to hold the grinder up in an uncomfortable position for quite some time.

In addition to being tough and corrosion resistant, the burrs formed by grinding SS will be like tiny, needle sharp, spiraled, cork screws that will screw themselves into your clothing and scratch/itch you near to death! Better plan to use/issue disposable PPE when you do this.

Under magnification carbon steel grinder burs look just about like the SS ones but carbon steel burrs will rust out after a few washings, or at least loose their points. SS lasts for YEARS and will contaminate other clothing worn with the offending article or even washed in the same load. If you foul some millwright's new work clothes with SS grinder burs, you may make an enemy for life!

I don't envy the fellow who will be holding the grinder on this one!

As to using a cutting disk instead of a grinding disk, cutting disks will remove less material and cut faster, but are more fragile. Grinding disks, especially the fiber reinforced type, are usually more rugged but have to remove more material to achieve the same depth of cut.

Be safe!

TT3

p.s. I used to have a really nice FR heavy work coat that was contaminated with SS grinder burrs. After trying to save it for about 5 years, the wife put it in the donate bag. I took it out and threw it away. I could not bring myself to allow another human being to be afflicted by that coat!

Hello Yagoub.

Is it a 20" diameter tube. Do you have enough room to get a sawzall or jigsaw into the job. Each can be effective but the sawzall can be easy to stop start and correct direction quickly. Practice on some similar material and then try on the job.

The grinder will work but SS gets very hot very fast and retains the heat leading to difficulties with flesh burns, if you do not wear good gloves which hinder a hands on feel for the grinding operation.

Ryobi and Bosch make vibratory saws where you can get diamond blades to use. These are simple to use on wood and I have had success cutting through re-bar and marble tile with ease and very good accuracy.