110v From a 220v Line

Given that the cables now installed. I would use the core that is being used as the earth as neutral. Use the braid as earth with the addition of the ground spike at the remote point. It may not be up to regulations but it will work.

If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician locally.

i decided to run it on 220v because of the long run. "125'" though 12 gauge braided wire may be able to run the pump on 110v. i don't know enough about voltage loss to make a good decidition, so i thought i'ld go the safe waqy.

There is no appreciable voltage loss. AC equipment is designed to run on 110/208/220/240, whatever. Connecting a 110 device to 220 is not good and would require some creative wiring which would let the magic smoke out, no doubt.

If you don't deliver the proper phase/neutral/ground to a 110 outlet, you will find out in short order there is no voltage loss and may in fact kill you.

Good gradulations, you have answered your own question. Yes you are right you dont know enough!

10 points for asking the question, dont attempt this installation.

Seek professional help.

Best Regards

Joe

As a clarification.

Given that the cables now installed. I would disconnect and reuse the core that is being used as the earth as a neutral. Use the braid as the earth with the addition of a ground spike connected to the braid at the remote point.

It may not be up to regulations but it will work.

Okay, that sounds right. I don't think I caught the original intent. If the braided portion is grounded at the distribution panel and at a ground rod at the pump it is within NEC. Other codes, not sure. GFCI would be necessary for the circuit to work effectively, and would be required or an exterior (wet) location, such as the outlet he was suggesting. Plus, the pump itself is in that wet location.

i like the iidea of a ground fault. the pump is in a 32" manhole with no room to work let alone get away from an electrical shock. where should the ground fault breaker be located?

The GFCI breaker would be located in the service panel/breaker box.

i'm not sure if you understand that all three wires are 12 gauge? they are enclosed in a weather proof jacket

can i run a 1/2hp pump at 110v with 12 gauge braided wire over a distance of 125' without any voltage drop?

Check the mfr label for the voltage and current draw. This is how you will size the wiring servicing the equipment. Reference the NEC for determining the length of service allowed for the gauge of wire and load requirements. Again, voltage drop is not what you wil consider here...current draw is what you need to be concerned with.

You don't oversize the voltage to make up for "voltage drop". Providing two phase (split phase) power to a 110vac device is not going to work. 110vac devices require single phase and neutral, totally different.

To answer your question, though, the nominal current draw for a 1/2 HP 110V single phase motor is 9.8 amps. 12 gauge wire has a resistance of about 1.62 ohms/1000', so your voltage drop is 9.8A x (250' [there and back] x 1.62ohms/1000') = 3.97V (give or take). Your pump is rated 110V because it assumes up to a 10V loss from the initial 120V at the breaker panel, so voltage loss for your installation actually wouldn't be an issue. Also, the ampacity of 12 gauge wire is 25 amps, and you're well below that.

<...without any voltage drop...>

As no commonly-used circuit conductor is usually a superconductor, there will always be a <...voltage drop...>. It is within the domain of the qualified Electrician to ensure that the cable selected provides a <...voltage drop...> that complies with the local electrical code once installed. The conductor size, the length of the cable, the full-load-current to be carried and the method of installation all have a bearing on this assessment. At the end of the installation, a signed record of it would remain with the user. One doesn't get these things during a homebrew one.

This is not magic. It's a formula and an extensive set of regulations designed to keep people from shocking someone to death, or burning down their house. Would you try using English muffins with honey as brake pads cause they are sticky?

I got the impression your pump gave you a choice of 110 or 220 volt wiring, and you wired it 220v to minimize line losses, and preserve the motor. Then you decided you wanted a 110 outlet at the pump house. If you're not going to draw much current from the outlet WHILE the pump is running, I'd just tap off one leg and the neutral. You can also wire each 110 outlet of a duplex off a different leg, remembering to break off the connecting link on the side of the back of the duplex outlet.

If you're going to run an electric lawn mower, turn off the pump at the pump house. You DO have a double pole double throw switch there, eh? Then you have your choice of pump or outlet.

It amazes me how many people play around with things that can be extremely dangerous even lethal. As for your wanting to hook your pump up as 220v rather than 110v - is it a 'slect the voltage' you want pump? I may be wrong but it may not run correctly if it is expecting 220v.

In my opinion from what I have read in regards your questions and comments I would urge you to get in a qualified electrician. (here in Aus we have to, as it is illegal not to do so.)

.......by the by if you let the smoke of the (electrical) system it creates a lot more problems....

buy an industrial 220v to 110v transformer....Home Depot have them.. in all sizes!!

i agree. the safer the better. anyways, it wont cost a lot than taking a risk compare to the saving you gain by splitting the 220v, line to ground connection. buy a transformer.

Do NOT drive a ground rod at the pump, unless you connect it to the ground in the panel. The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that there be only one ground in a system. It forbids separate grounds on the same system.

BEST ADVICE. HIRE A LICENSED LOCAL ELECTRICIAN TO DO THIS WORK FOR YOU. He will follow ALL the NEC provisions and provide a safe installation.

The number of questions in this post tells me that no one really knows the complete situation. This is not a difficult installation for someone who is licensed and knows what he is doing. Anyone else is liable to kill someone.

Signed, A Registered Professional Electrical Engineer

Not a good idea.

Just run it back through the ground wire...USA National Electrical Code now requires ground and neutral to be bonded together inside your electrical panel.

Use a step-down or an auto transformer sized to the expected load. Check Allied Electronics or a similar supplier.

To simplify your installation, first dou you plan on installing a quick disconnect at the pump location? NEC requires a service disconnect if your equipement is out of sight from the distribution panel box. Second, is your pump in a pump house or some sort of shelter? Meaning is there a place to add a sub panel to have a GFCI located near the pump. If not, the NEC requires to have a quick disconnect with 10' or eye sight of the equipement, being a safety measure for maintenance functions. It really doesn't matter what plan on hooking up, if the pump can be wired for 220, then take advantage of the effort. You do not see any voltage drop until after 150' from the source, this is when you start to see it and you never force more then 80% load factor onto your service drop. Being, if your pump draws 9.8amps on a continuous function, then a 20amp breaker is all you need and 12AWG is a standard size wire.

This being said, when you wire up the pump, since it is in a wet location, you will use PVC sealtight flex conduit to hook up your pump. On your disconnect, you have the options to use fast blow fuses at the site, I would recommend this effort and your fuses would be sized to 125% of the name plate rating of the motor. It might seem odd, but her is the big picture, you know this unit only draws 9.8Amps onc it is up and running. We feed the circuit to the disconnect with the 20Amp circuit. This 20Amp circuit is designed to protect the wire feeding your equipement to the disconnect. Next, with the fusable disconnect you will size the fuse to protect the pump itself, 125% of 9.8Amps is 12.25Amps, so would round it down to 12Amp fuses on the disconnect. By code, section 680 covers pools, spas, and other wet locations and similar settings, you will need to actually go over the requirements, its really too long to rewrite the book for you. If you do have a location to mount a sub panel, do it. Then you can branch out to your outlet and also have the means to safely configure your disconnect to your pump. Also I would recommend using a motor starter, push button type on/off set up to make this as neat as possible. There are several ways to wire it up, but so many veriables to make it all go wrong and get someone killed.

Great information. You went a bit further than I. Hopefully the OP will get an electrician or at least a good inspection afterwards before putting this into operation.

I would hate to hear of someone getting zapped over what is really a simple installation (as long as the rules are adhered to).

Mr. Simple chiming in. Perhaps, as you have provided enough for a 100 AMP (I'm somewhat certain that is what #12 can feed, would have to 'look it up' to be sure) panel near your pump. Get a small 100 AMP panel at your local Bog Box Store and provide proper over current protection and voltage for whatever you're going to locate near your well.

Just a thought.

How about this

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Breakers-Distribution-Load-Centers/Eaton-Cutler-Hammer/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbm0kZ40d/R-100129273/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

or if you just must have a GFI

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100567181/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

can't you find a 22o to 110 V transformer with one of its secondary terminals grounded?.