My 97 Chevy Cavalier Won't Start

Have you done a search here on on CR4 regards "chevy cavalier"? The usual problem aside from it being a chevy cavalier is that the anti theft/immobiliser has gone on the fritz.

Search the forum for chevy cavalier, you'll find about a thousand threads, some of them may have your solution.

off the top of my head I'd say crank position sensor. I want to think the wiring is located on the back side of the engine, firewall side. Other issue I think is ignition switch contacts in the run position not making good contact versus start position. A manual and multi-meter should help.

Like the first responder said, search CR4 there has been a lot of cavaliers threads including your symptoms as described I think or very close.

If this does not help come back with what you have done/checked then some here may help.

Good luck, Charles

Classic symptom of ignition supply resistor ( Supply side of the coil) blown.

As soon as you let go the key the thing dies, because then the ign. switch routes the supp through the resistor. Cranking gets line voltage (12v), run gets about 9.5v to the coil ( it's actually a 9.5v coil, NOT 12v) in effect boosting voltage at the plugs to ingite cold/ low pressure mixtures whilst in cranking mode.

Maybe..........?

A good beginning tho'

Cheers,

Stu.

This was my initial thought too, but I know the thing as a "ballast resistor." If it has pooped out, you will have an open circuit when the key is in the run position.

It is used because the points (assuming you have them) don't like 12 V.

In the US, points were essentially gone (replaced by electronic ignition) about two decades before this car was built.

Hi James, has the vehicle not been used for a long time? If so drain the fuel and put fresh fuel in the tank.

Cheers

Joe

Pull the fuel pump relay and use a jumper. If it stays running get a wiring diagram and determine what is tripping the relay. It could be the security system their are ways to bypass on the internet google to check.

Have you checked the timing?

I freely admit to knowing nothing of Chevy's but one thing to think of as it sometimes happens on Jags is the oil pressure switch cuts the fuel relay if a safe oil pressure isn't hit when cranking over or starting.This means it will only run for a few seconds then die,just an obscure one but can happen this is meant for the xj series,i dont know about later stuff.

If the fuel is there and the spark is there the only other thing that is needed is oxygen to make the combustion. Have you considered that there is not enough air getting in? A dirty air filter can stop an engine by making the fuel mix too lean to burn.

stop an engine by making the fuel mix too lean to burn.

In the old days, a partially clogged air filter would make an engine run rich, not lean. But nowadays, it doesn't matter, because the mixture is controlled in a closed loop in which oxygen content in the exhaust gases is sensed, and the injection amount is controlled to produce the correct mixture. These days, the only affect of a dirty air filter is lower power output at full throttle. Emissions, fuel efficiency, etc all remain just fine.

I recently gave my car a treat, and replaced the air filter (and the cabin air filter) at 100,000 miles. It runs just the same as it did, (and even at full throttle there is no detectable difference)... but I am sure that it makes my car feel cared for.

Check the fuel filter. If it is partially plugged, the car would act as you described.

Old Honda Odysseys were recalled for a symptom like this. In the start position, the ignition switch supplies the ignition, the starter relay, etc. In the run position, it supplies everything but the starter relay. Inside the switch, the actual contact positions supplying the ignition circuit are different (in the two positions). The contacting points in the run position wear out and begin to arc, sometimes melting the solder on the switch.

Recently, my Odyssey would start and run as long as I held the switch in the start position, but would stop as soon as I released the key. Tested the switch, and sure enough, it was shot. Replaced the switch. Everything is fine.

You'd need the wiring diagram for your switch, and with that you can test the switch (disconnected) with an ohmmeter.

Another problem that gives some cars this symptom: low oil pressure sender. If the car has low oil pressure shutoff, the shutoff is bypassed while the key is in the start position (because you can't have oil pressure before the engine is running). Once you release the key, and sometimes after a short delay, the oil pressure is checked, and if it is not up to snuff, the engine shuts down. My guess is that a 97 Cavalier does not have this feature, but it's worth finding out. (check service manual, dealership, etc.)

the fuel pump was replaced already what could be the problem?
I hope the fuel pump was not replaced to "solve" the problem. There is typically a fault code issued (such as P0171) if the fuel pump is failing. Virtually everything is testable before replacement. If a garage replaced your fuel pump to solve this you should get your money back.

You may want try this to see if it solves your problems, Taking the 4 tires off of the Cavalier and placing them on another vehicle, say, something like a Chevy Vega.

Fuel pump relay; Jumper between BAtt#30 and load (fuel pump circuit) on relay plug, if car runs replace relay. There is also a relay by pass circuit plug (usually near the relay) when this is plugged into a batt circuit the pump should run.