Car Problems

Take it to a mechanic. They'll look at your diagnostic codes and listen for several tell tale sounds.

My guess is that you have a vacuum leak at the very least. However, at this high of a vehicle mileage it could be anything from an emission control device failure (EGR, temperature sensor, etc.) to a worn out engine that has too much leakage past your rings.

Tell me, when it's cold does it make a sound like "Please don't make run. Please don't make me run. I don't like this. I don't like this. I don't want to. I don't want to. NO! (cough)" or does it just scream "LEAVE ME ALO-O-O-O-ONE! (pause) LEAVE ME ALO-O-O-ONE! I don' wanna, I don' wanna, NO!" A well trained mechanic's ear will be able to discern the subtle sonic differences between these two different failure modes.

These sounds you describe:

When it is cold, I make sounds similar to those you describe. I wonder: maybe I have a vacuum leak? I should go see a doctor and get my codes checked. I wonder where my code reader port is at... Uh oh, I think I might already know.

I forgot to mention that the engine has been rebuilt. It has around 100000 on it now.

A twenty four year old economy car with a rebuilt engine having new engine problems at 230,000 miles seems like a lost cause to me. I'm sure you have less of a body rot problem in North Carolina than here in my winter wonderland with a sea salt spray but I'd be constantly wondering what will be the next thing to fail.

If this was some noteworthy, collectible vehicle then I'd entertain fixing this car. What would be the value of this car if it ran well, $200?

There is a difference between value and worth. A car's worth is what someone would be willing to pay for it. In this case, a few hundred dollars. It's value to its current owner is probably much higher given the cash outlay required to replace it.

I'd be looking very carefully for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold. Sometimes lightly spraying water around the intake manifold and injectors will temporarily "seal" a leak and it will start running better (at least for a few moments). That's how I discovered the vacuum leaks around the injectors in my 1987 VW Jetta with 260,000 miles. Some times, when the engine comes up to temperature and everything expands, it "seals off" the leak and the car runs better.

The other thing is to carefully inspect all the rubber hoses, bellows, tubes, and plumbing that is connected to the intake system. A cracked vacuum line will cause the symptoms you describe and the car may be able to compensate for the extra air while it's warmed up but the system may not have enough dynamic range to accomodate the extra air when cold.

Good luck with your quest.

Sometimes lightly spraying water around the intake manifold and injectors will temporarily "seal" a leak and it will start running better (at least for a few moments).

A carburetor guy suggested to me that I aim an UN-lit propane torch around the various joints and hoses. When it passes a leak, the engine should speed up a bit.

Just make sure you're wearing a face shield when the propane flashes.

I've heard that one too, it works but I would have a hard time recommending it.

that's funny? i just suggested doing that last week, and i'm not a carberator guy. hell, i can't even spell it.

you would'nt want to see the way i seal tires to the rim.

i have often wondered why i have'nt junked my wife??

Here a few ideas. First, have you checked the fuel pressure from a cold start. The fuel pump may fixin to die on you. There should be a port or plug in the fuel rail that a gauge be installed for testing.

Second, the coolant sensor may be bad. There may be two one for gauge/light other for ecu. Or two in one. The manual should tell. It would cause the ecu not to enrich the fuel when cold. Then as the engine warms up it runs better.

Third, the air dampers that are in the intake air to the air filter housing may not be moving to the correct location to direct warm air from the exhaust manifold. (My opinion this the least likely. I've removed/rerouted most of my vehicles for direct cold air. Other than extreme cold winter I just let the engine warm a little.)

Fourth, look at the vacuum lines for cracks deterioration, may be an air leak.

Is it an automatic or straight shift?

Last, Has the check engine light been on or is on. Have you had a scanner hooked up to see if any codes may be stored. Most auto parts stores will check for you.

It is a straight drive. No, the check engine light does not come on. I will see if I can get the fuel pressure checked, I hadn't thought of that. thanks

Just wondering - weak coil or going bad?

I haven't thought of that. thanks

At least some cars from that era used a so-called "fifth injector" (for four-bangers). It is usually attached to the intake manifold, and can be identified as having a fuel line to it, and usually a pair of wires. My son's 280Z had one with a Japanese name on it, but physically interchangeable with the Bosch one from my '87 VW. It is used during starting to enrich the mixture, since there's no choke on fuel-injected cars. If it has failed, you'll have problems until it warms enough not to need enrichment. There may also be an engine temperature sensor, as someone has already pointed out; it can be the control element to turn the 5th injector on or off. On VW's, that sensor also adjusts fuel pressure when cold; it is a rebuildable (mostly clean it and reassemble) unit.

I'd ask a mechanic to chec k it out, but it could be head gaskets etc. They could be leaking until the engine warms up and the metal expands under heat to help seal it better.

Is it carburetted?

Is it computer controlled?

Does it still have a correctly fitted air cleaner?

Either way check for air leak on vacuum line, inlet manifold joints etc. Then get back with answers to the above questions if it still has the problem.

Jim

In addition to the vacuum leak issues, think about the timing belt. Timing belts will develop stretch over time. You can readjust the ignition timing to compensate, but the valve timing will just get later and later. A compression test will show compression to be lower, but equal on all cylinders as the valve timing gets retarded. Try looking for a loose timing belt.

If you recently replaced the spark plugs. remove them again, and inspect them. There are many engine problems that can identified by plug inspections. Good luck.

Do a compression test. The last time this happened to me the cause was badly worn valve seats.

All cars have some kind of enrichment device to adjust the fuel/air ratio as a function of temperature. In the days of carburetors it was called a choke. Fuel injected engines use different techniques and terminology. In any case I believe you have a simple problem with your fuel enrichment device.

Hi E-Pod

Just a suggestion have you had a look at the water thermostat valve it could be rusted and stuck open

Cheers

Joe

it sounds like a bad igntion modual. they can drive you crazy. i'ld put it on the computer

This is old enough to still be a carbuerator. I think all Stanza's thru '88 are carbs unless its a california car. If it is a carb, the choke needs to be adjusted as it sounds like the fast idle adjustment is off. The choke is set when the engine is cold so find someone my age (I'm a boomer) and they should be able to help. Good Luck.

Good thought.

If it is carborated, remove the air cleaner after the car has had a chance to sit unused overnight. Then step on the gas pedal once, and then inspect the carb. If the choke plate has closed, (The choke plate is on the very top of the carb, and it should shut off all of the air at this time), then turn the key to the start position. The car should start, and run at a fast speed. ( about 2000- 2500 RPM )

If it does not run fast, you will need the choke linkage inspected, and possibly adjusted. This procedure should be fairly inexpensive. Good luck.