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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Concerned Truck Owner

12/13/2011 10:50 AM

I got a 1996 Ford Ranger pickup....V6 motor with a 100,000 miles...and Have hot water going in and hot water coming out of the heater core...But it is blowing 'luke cool' air into the interior. I've replaced the thermostat and am thinking of trying dynamite next!!! Can anyone help me solve this dilemma??? It's getting cold in northern Illinois!!! Thank you.

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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: South of Minot North Dakota
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#1

Re: concerned truck owner

12/13/2011 10:57 AM

Have you tried taking your coolant lines off your heater and back flushing them with a garden hose?

You may be shocked at what collects in your heater core. The other option would be that your heater damper door does not move properly and simply is not letting enough of the air flow go through your heater core.

I have Fords and both things are surprisingly common problems they tend to have regardless of model.

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#2

Re: conscerned truck owner

12/13/2011 11:01 AM

Your mixing door has stuck or is broken, as the North Dakota Carbon King has suggested.

My AC blew hot air couple years back. I took it to my mechanic (I'm too old to crawl under dashes any more) and he fixed it. I forgot what it cost, but it was worth it.

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#5
In reply to #2

Re: concerned truck owner

12/13/2011 5:45 PM

North Dakota carbon king!?! Well I am flattered and honored. How did I come to be bestowed with such a grand title?

Did you somehow find out about my mineral rights that just got renewed for about 100 times what their old lease value was?

PAY ME, PUMP, PAY ME AGAIN, BURN, AND REPEAT!

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#6
In reply to #5

Re: concerned truck owner

12/13/2011 6:55 PM

Neither. I just know that you eschew pollution controls on vehicles and probably have a number of burn barrels around your place.

Be careful, or you'll end up in a higher tax bracket.

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#12
In reply to #6

Re: concerned truck owner

12/14/2011 12:05 PM

Well according to the on line carbon calculators my yearly CO2 output is around 60+ tons or higher from non renewable sources.

However I am working on changing my boiler over to used oil so that should nearly double my non renewable CO2 numbers based on the approximate amount of used oil I will need to burn to offset my annual wood consumption. I can get used oil locally for free and it far easier to deal with than wood pallets and cleaning up wood from around the farm.

Yea I do have three well used 55 gallon drum burning barrels on front of my shop too.

So how many tree huggers efforts does it take to offset my 100 - 120 tons?

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#13
In reply to #12

Re: concerned truck owner

12/14/2011 12:28 PM

Congratulations! You may have a bigger footprint than "Sasquatch"...

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#3

Re: conscerned truck owner

12/13/2011 11:27 AM

If you know for fact that you have "hot water" flowing through the wet side of the heater core, then you must have something obstructing the air on the dry side of the core. It might just need a good vacuuming.

It could also be that the mixer door is not operating correctly. This could be either electrical, mechanical or vacuum actuated. I am not sure which your truck is so you can check on that yourself.

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#4

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/13/2011 12:30 PM

" The Ranger is built with a Blend Door to control the heater and AC function. The blend door controls air flowing through AC evaporator and diverts it into the vent system or through the heater coil, or any combination in between. The doors are controlled by a stepper motor. The issue with the system is that the system has to calibrate itself and find the end points of movement before the computer can understand the two closed positions and regulate the temperature. The photograph shows the blend door actuator motor for the Ranger. The fan gear is connected to the blend door and the motor is capable of moving the fan between the constraints of stopping against the motor case. The fan is a 90 degree fan. When it moves between the two stop points, it has 90 degrees of movement capability(180 â€" 90). The motor is capable of moving the door through a 90 degree arc, but the door hits the extents of movement at 50 degrees. The net effect is that the plastic doors have to absorb the force of the motor driving to a stall point. The motor is geared to move the doors slowly and with a good amount of force. The door has to withstand the force of stopping the motor, and like bending a coat hanger back and forth, will eventually break. "

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Join Date: Jun 2011
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#15
In reply to #4

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/14/2011 2:01 PM

Yes, the door may flex a little bit when fully closed. This varies depending upon the door design and material, as well as the HVAC system design and how the control logic to open and close the door is set for the vehicle. It is not accurate to use the analogy of bending a coat hanger back and forth. (I imagine you are referring to a metal coat hanger - similarly a metal paper clip.) I am not familiar with this particular door, but automotive HVAC doors that I have seen are polypropylene or polyamide based materials. The fatigue life in bending of these materials is exceptional. The photos of failed doors also did not fail in the mode which you described. The photos were not good enough for me to tell how/why they failed, but it was not a door bending fatigue failure.

Also, the link you have shows to replace the plastic door with a metal one. You need to be very careful when making a change like this not to create a new failure in another location. If the system was designed with some intended flex before the motor stops driving the door, you risk breaking the teeth off of the stepper motor, break the door shaft, cracking the housing, etc. The original door lasted for 15 years in service. If indeed the door is broken, I would still recommend another door like it. I imagine that another 15 years of service will suffice for the vehicle. You can probably find one in a junk yard for a reasonable price.

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#7

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/14/2011 3:57 AM

HI, I had the same on my Range rover. It was the heater matrix partly blocked / furred up. The water still ran through the un blocked part of the matrix hence the air being luke warm as it mixed with the cold air which came through the blocked part. Try reverse flushing with a hose pipe . If this does not work then it will be a new matrix.

Good luck, Paul.

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#8

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/14/2011 6:29 AM

Yes, Place the dynamite as close to the heater rad as possible to avoid blowing the mascot off the hood.. if I can help somebody then my life will not have been in vain,vane,van aw just pick one.

Bazzer

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#9

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/14/2011 6:53 AM

You might check to see if some lightweight foreign object was sucked into the return plenum and lodged against the heater core or in the bypass door. Plastic shopping bags tend to do that - had one do that in my truck a few years back..

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#10

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/14/2011 9:47 AM

Lyn and Solar eagle are right, you should have bought a Chevy..

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#11

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/14/2011 10:05 AM

Ford rangers have a vacuum line that comes from the "globe" (located under hood on passenger side front) to the firewall, it is about 1/8" dia. black tube that is located too close to the manifold. it melts and seals inside. it may look "ok", but you need to test it out. all the functions of the heater and air conditioner depend on this little tube.

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#14

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/14/2011 12:41 PM

Your problem is not the manufacturer, Ford has made some fine products. Your problem is the age of your truck. My '65' F-100 has great heat and no pesky vacuum, or stepper motors to cause problems. When the driver wants the temperature changed, he just reaches for the mechanical controls.

Now, I just have to patch up some more rust throughs and I'll be fine.

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#16
In reply to #14

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/14/2011 3:14 PM

His "Ford" is actually a Mazda...go figure

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#17

Re: Concerned Truck Owner

12/23/2011 4:15 PM

rmacusa is right...sometimes something like plastic shopping bags can find their way to the rad core. maybe check from the bottom of the wiper bay and see if leaves or pine needles may have blocked the airflow to the heater core.

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Users who posted comments:

Bazzer Englander (1); cc732 (1); cuba_pete (2); Lapin (1); lyn (2); P.Mason (1); polymerfan (1); rmacusa (1); Rockyscience (2); setlock77 (1); SolarEagle (1); tcmtech (3)

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