Wood Stove Gasket Material

Glass or ceramic rope?
Del

Yeah, that's all that seems to be available. I've been using it, but it doesn't last near as long as asbestos. I'm looking for a source of asbestos, but coming up empty handed. I'm thinking along the lines of something that might be used in the aerospace industry, that I could get my hands on.

kramarat they make similar seals with silica and ceramics. They may have a better life.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#high-temperature-seals/=gcf3cv

Thanks ozzb. The silica or ceramic rope is exactly what I need. I'm looking for a local source, otherwise I'll order on line. It's too bad that all of the stuff that is readily available at the "homeowner" level, is garbage.

Actually, GA. You've got me on the right track. I'm liking the looks of the ceramic rope.

http://www.firesleeveandtape.com/high-temperature-heat-flame-fire-resistant-fiberglass-vermiculite-silica-ceramic-metal-mesh-rope-gasket-seal-group.html

Bingo! That was a quick one.

I found a local boiler supply house that sells to the public and has the good stuff.

Thanks again guys.

Oops. One more question.

Has anyone ever used this?:

http://www.deacontech.com/3300_tech.html

I'm wondering if this wouldn't work better for the permanent seals, and just using the ceramic rope rope for the door gasket.

It looks like some nice stuff.....................maybe permanent for my application.

bolt pattern on flanges are pretty close together. The amount of space between the bolts on the stove may let the metal expand and contract too much.

Good point.

I think the ceramic rope will do the trick for my application. I just got off the phone with with the boiler supply people. They're selling more product due to the government imposed panic over asbestos, but nothing out there lasts or performs as well.

.......or gives you asbestosis quite as well

We use a stuff for work called Supergraf, for all our exhaust gaskets. Its a compressible graphite gasket, works a treat every time. Not sure if there is a James Walker over your way, but maybe look into it. You can buy it in lots of different configuartions, including sheet you can cut out to suit.

Check this link and there is a list of all the different types on the left side.

http://www.jameswalker.biz/products/141-Supagraf-reg-Tape

Best of luck Kramarat!

Thanks clarity. I've found an industrial supply place near me and I'll get the best stuff they have........................I'll add graphite to my list of possibilities.

I've used Fiberfax Ceramic Blanket for many years. The basic material I believe was good for 2300F and the higher temperature was for like 2500 to 2700F. The ceramic rope was generally made from one of those blends and worked well. They also make it as a board.

It came in different densities and ranged from soft to firm depending if you took a 1# up to maybe a 6# density. The higher densities were stiff boards and not pliable. We found it to be great stuff. I first bought it to replace an asbestos cloth that they were using.

There is a great deal of hype over asbestos and largely due to the lawyers promoting the class action lawsuit. It doesn't jump up off a piece of asbestos into the air and kill you. Most guys developed it after many years of working in shipyards or boiler facilities or in the John Mansville plants. It generally doesn't even show up until 20 years after exposure. It has to be airborne and in sufficient quantities before it's a serious problem

Thanks. For my application, I think the ceramic rope will work just fine. I've got a local supplier too. I'm also going to treat it just like I would asbestos, and wet it before making my cuts. It's just that simple.

Soft bare copper wire.

A little too rigid. I'm afraid I would have to torque down the cast iron pieces to the point of possible cracking.

Use annealed soft copper in the 18 to 24 gauge size range (strip some solid core automotive repair wire), bend to shape, and torque only to a snug contact fit. All you need is a low pressure gas seal. Performance engine builders use copper wire fitted into circles machined in the block and heads of supercharged nitro fueled engines and high compression diesels to seal the cylinders. They torque those down to around 150 ft-lbs but you don't need that much sealing, probably 10-15 ft-lbs will be more than enough. Just torque down all the bolts in even increments till you get it seated. Check the seal with a thin sheet metal feeler gauge. You should be able to get copper wire at any automotive parts place or big box retailer so it is cheap, and easily to find and should last forever. That's the main reason I recommended it, not that it's the best solution.

I think I would run into the same problem as I would with the Deacon product...............................not enough bolts. The span on upper and lower edges is about 2 1/2 ft with one nut and bolt on each corner. It would be perfect if I had a bolt every 4" or so.

If you could find the asbestos rope the trick is to wet it down in its bag this would stop fibres flying around when fitting it. Once it is clamped in place it should not be a problem.

Persons who worry about this please don't bug me about consequences. you have to make your own decisions in life.

The entire asbestos ban is ridiculous.

Silicosis is very real too. If the stupid government applied the same logic to silica as they have to asbestos, every home and building that contains latex paint would be a death trap.

Idiots!!!

A product that is readily available that may work for you is the seal material for self cleaning ovens. You should be able to get it from an appliance parts store.

Thanks Byron. I believe the self cleaning ovens get up to about 500-550F. The wood stove gets way hotter.

If I've got it loaded with wood and open the damper, the cast iron sides sometimes glow.

Self cleaning electric ovens operate at 900 deg F in the clean cycle. Mine is over 20 years old and nothing has gone wrong with the seal. The other possibility is GE high temp silicone. When I worked for Aerojet General back in the 60's we used high temp silicone for sealing the rocket nozzles. The temp of the gas coming through the nozzle was between 5000 and 6000 deg F.

The only difference between a man in an orange jump suit and a 3 piece business suit is attitude.

Thanks. I'll look into both.

I just bought this stove,in great shape and getting ready to buy my chimney pipe.It has a 8 inch hole for the pipe and was wondering if I can run a reducer to 6 inch to go with the smaller pipe?I have a few people with some kicking around and can pick it up really cheap.Thanks for the help!

STOVE ROPES

There shouldn't be a problem with reducing to 6", but do your research on the chimney pipe. If this is going inside a house, "cheap" could end in tragedy.

It was expensive, but I erred on the side of caution, and went with the Duravent triple walled stuff. It can be run within 6" of combustible material, and is guaranteed forever.

I believe you can get an 8" to 6" reducer, that fits right on your stove opening.