Stove Pipe Drips in Heavy Storms

You didn't say: You're sure the problem is not a bad seal between the roof itself and the chimney pipe?

Are you sure the point of ingress is the cap?

Did you install one of these or something similar?

As Usb stated, check the seal at between the pipe and roof/flange.

OR

Buy a second cap and with the old cap, install both on the top of the "H" legs.

Probably win an award in the Tate Modern annual art exhibition.

(It's an English thing)

No doubt

Well, a cap on top of each leg of the "H" cap looks great to me. The cherry of the cake would be putting a large golf umbrella on top of the "H" !

R&D - Just another thought.

Did you stop using the stove in the last few weeks?

Is the flue dampener closed when you get the leakage?

Does the firebox have a good seal on the door?

Here's what I'm getting at - is there a possibility that IF the stove is not in use when this happens, that through the use of an exhaust fan, whole house fan or even open windows that a vacuum is being created and pulling the rain in the flue pipe?

I am probably making too many ASSumptions.

Hello!

My house a driwall construction. The 6´´ flue is connected to the top of the stove. It goes up 1 meter (3 Ft), 90º turn, then trough the wall, then it runs 1 meter slightly horizontal, 90º turn, and up to the sky. There is no hole in the roof as the flue is attached to the border of the eave. We are at the end of summer right now, so I havent used the stove for at least 5 months.

OK, so it appears that it IS coming down the inside of the stove pipe.

Do you close the dampener when your not using the stove? (still working on the vacuum theory).

no, I do not, This stove has a sliding dampener.

The front door (metal frame + glass) closes quite hermetically. I am planning to assemble the scaffold one more time next weekend to try to find out wtf is going wrong: I just was expecting a great idea to avoid having to do this AGAIN!

"1 meter slightly horizontal, 90º turn"

Can you drill a small hole in the bottom of the pipe at the low point of the horizontal pipe run? Let the water drain outside. Maybe plug it in fire season?

... well, as the new type of cap does not seem to work under heavy rain drilling a hole seems quite plausible to me. The only problem i see is that creosote will stain the cobblestone walk that is below!

With a 31' chimney, you should be able to install two 90 degree elbows at the top so the pipe is pointing down. That much pipe will give you a very significant "chimney effect" and the bends won't have an impact.

I won´t do that cause my neighbours will think I´ve got freaking insane! When a chimney points downwards, what way does the smoke go?

The smoke will still go up. Sigh.

What about putting a "chinaman's hat" on the top of each flue pipe (no offence intended)?

as soon as it stops raining I will get onto the roof-top again to see what might have gone wrong / and to analyze what if there is a "B plan" to solve the problem.We used to have mild summers in Buenos Aires, with normal rain falls. In the last ten years, sumers got (so to say) more "tropical": hotter, moister, frequent heavy showers and quite intense winds that generate a sort of horizontal rainfall...

I'm assuming that your stove pipe has "slip-on" joints. If they are not absolutely tight a heavy driving rain will infiltrate into the stove pipe at the joints, especially along the vertically oriented pipe.

Also, you may need a much larger diameter cap....

Right: I did fix te slip-ons together using metal screws with a drill tip, and sealed the joints using a car exhaust tube sealant (it is initially like tooth paste, and gets rock-hard after heating it). This should not be the problem... but will check it again!

yes, many people install the flue pipe upside down, so to speak. in that case water will enter though the joints.

Definitely worth entering in the Tate Modern

After checking the flue and the "h" cap again, if there is nothing wrong... I will probably have to take your idea.

ere is a product that the petroleum industry uses to detect the presence of water.The one I am familiar with is called Kolor Kut by a company of the same name. The tan paste turns vivid pink when exposed to water. By putting a stripe of the paste the length of the chimney, you would be able to detect the origin of the water.

Good luck.

thank you Bob!

Hey r&ddoc, you haven't said just how much water your talking about, is it a ml or a liter (+)? durtieduck has a valid concern about the flu pipe assembled upside down, the male portion of the joint pointing downward into the female portion of the joint, I always preferred the female on top with the male pointing upwards. You didn't like Lyn's suggestion of drilling a hole in the low point of the horizontal run of the pipe because, "creosote will stain the cobblestone walk that is below", but yet your "H" cap looks like the bottoms of the verticals of the H cap are wide open??

My question to you is, are you sure that the water ingress isn't coming through the wall penetration/ wall jack??