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Pool Chemistry Mystery

04/10/2012 9:04 PM

Hi all; I am experiencing a strange thing. I have a pool that is clear and looks very clean. When I test for chlorine level ,the titration shows no chlorine present. I add chlorine and retest...No chlorine present..... Next...I clean and maintain pools every day!

The test kit is functioning properly at all other pools. I believe the kit is accurate. The cyanuric levels read 70 a perfect level for this chealater in pools . This chelation level should maintain chlorine levels for a fairly long time before needing to add extra between visits. What other items may interfere with the chlorine readings. .....PS... I had 2 other outside tests done on this pool water and the readings were the same as mine. Any suggestions... Thanks Matt3477

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#1

Re: Pool chemistry mystery

04/10/2012 10:06 PM

I'm not familiar with the indicator chemicals commonly used to make a visible indication of chlorine levels in pool water. Do you know what chemical (not a brand name) is used?

Assuming that your test is accurate, have you checked the water usage at the pool site? You may have a pool that is getting constantly refilled with fresh water to replace water lost.

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#2
In reply to #1

Re: Pool chemistry mystery

04/10/2012 10:26 PM

Hey Red; I don't know the test/titration chemistry, but they are common pool tests purchased over the counter at any pool store. The pool is filled with well water, but there aren't any leaks ,so water loss isn't an issue. The well water has been in the pool for months...Thanks matt3477

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#3

Re: Pool chemistry mystery

04/11/2012 1:17 AM

If you maintain pools on a regular basis you can smell the chlorine when the level is sufficient, not that this is an accurate way to maintain the chlorine level, but I can smell mine and come pretty close, actually right on usually....So how does it do on the smell test?

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#4

Re: Pool chemistry mystery

04/11/2012 7:13 AM
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#5

Re: Pool Chemistry Mystery

04/11/2012 10:20 AM

What is thee PH of your pool ?

What is the TA of your pool ?

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#6

Re: Pool Chemistry Mystery

04/11/2012 10:50 PM

Before you can see residual chlorine (that which is picked up by the cl2 tester) you must overcome chlorine demand.

Chlorine is absorbed by organics, minieral....... That the water is clear means nothing.

pH and water temperture has an effect on the chlorine demand as well.

Suggest to prove all of your senses, take a gallon of the water and add a cap-ounce-table spoon..........etc. of chlorine, wait a few and test with the cl2 tester.

Keep doing this till you see a residual reading and then take the count of application and divide it by your volume of pool water.

This will give you and indication of how much you have to apply for the "first" application. Should not be as much in later application...........Hope this helps.

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#7

Re: Pool Chemistry Mystery

04/11/2012 11:01 PM

There are two possible answers.

1.If you are using orthotolidine (OT) testing (that is the common cheap test you can buy in any hardware store and is liquid) and the solution is more than 6 months old it will read low. It will also read low if the OT has been exposed to sunlight. Solution, use a different test as in 2 below.

2. The only testing you should use to test pool water is DPD testing. With this test you can test both combined chlorine and free chlorine. Your target in testing is to achieve a free residual. That is the chlorine that is best available for disinfection. Combined chlorine reacts with ammonia (NH3) to form chloramines. Chloramines (NH2Cl, NHCl2, and NCl3) are those compounds with weaker disinfection properties but still will disinfect. They cause the burning eyes and odor most associate with too high a chlorine residual. The fact is the chlorine residual is too low not too high.

To explain; chlorine residual demand would be a linear straight line if there were no demand. If you put 1 mg/L in the pool you would measure a residual of 1 mg/L. However because there are lots of sources of ammonia in the pool the residual does not behave linearly. Instead it raises and makes a huge dive downward and sometimes close to zero. There is a residual that can be measured but it will be combined and not free.The free residual will not be measured until all the combined residual has been exhausted by the chlorine. You may want to look up break point chlorination.

My suggestion is that if you are not using DPD measuring purchase the equipment. Measure both combined and free residuals using the correct tablets and instructions. If you have not got free residual of about 2 ppm or mg/L add chlorine to achieve such level. Free chlorine will be odorless and will not sting the eyes. Remember the chlorine is used up by things like sweat, urine, creatinines. The fact that you are reading zero means you are likely measuring the low point of the break point chlorination. Adding chlorine is best used with pH curves and will optimize at close to neutral. Hypochlorination will cause the pH to rise and you may have to add acids periodically to knock it down. But that is all you should have to add with hypochlorination. If it rains a lot and the pH lowers you may add soda ash to raise it. So get a pH kit to measure pH and keep a log of both pH and both types of Chlorine residuals. It will help.

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#8

Re: Pool Chemistry Mystery

04/12/2012 5:38 AM

Around here the 'well' or spring water is high in minerals, hence 'mineral' water,

A post above says minerals absorb the chlorine.

You say it is well water.

Your chlorine is being absorbed by the minerals in the well water. ??

cnc jim

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#9

Re: Pool Chemistry Mystery

04/12/2012 9:12 AM

You may need to super chlorinate (shock) the pool to release the chlorine already in suspension if the hardness is too high.

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#10

Re: Pool Chemistry Mystery

04/16/2012 11:01 AM

The two main things to check besides Cl is pH and temp. Both will affect the type of Cl you are using. The higher the temperature of the pool will cause the Cl to form HCl acid which will not be indicated on you meter as stated before you need a meter that can determine between free Cl and Cl compounds. HCl is what causes the sting in you eyes bleaching of you clothes, but has no disinfecting properties.

This is the main reason not to use it in a spa or hot tub.

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