4 Pin USB A With 5 Wires?

USB is a worldwide standardised connection specification. But because something looks like USB and can be forced in a USB socket does not mean it is USB and vice-versa. That's my first estimation. In proprietary equipment configurations the manufacturer is sadly not restricted from making such choices. S.M.

Just heard back from the local service center for the manufacturer and what I am wanting to do will not void the exchange value of the board. I will do a continuity test to see which wires are tied together and drop in a jumper on a standard 4 wire config. It will be a few days before I get back to the machine to try this. Thanks for the in put and I will let you know how it turns out. In the mean time any other suggestions are welcome.

Did you check with the mfg. to see if the cable is specific to this system? Did you ask them if you can use a standard USB cable?

I did contact the service center for information on the cable. He was not sure about the number of wires. He thought 4. He did think there was a connector on the board to allow removing the USB cable. I will have to check that out as I thought it looked like the socket was part of the board and that 5 individual male pins went into. I did not see any clips to hold a connector so I did not try pulling on it.

Anominomi... uhm hero is correct pin 5 is shield

just check the diagram from a supplier

I agree the 5th wire has to be a shield. I did search the net for USB configurations to see what it might be before posting and could only find 4 pins and 4 wires for the type A connector. Shielding never crossed my mind.

5 is shield and is connected to non signal ground.

that is what I was thinking a floating ground

Here is the final update on the USB cable. I made it back to the machine last night. After digging out the snot like glue (probably silicone) I was able to remove the cable from the board. With some help a simple continuity test shows the cable is good. This surprised me as I truly believed the cable was the problem. But now, I am satisfied I have done all I can do to try and save the cash for a new board. I appreciate the input from every one here. I have learned a lot about cables through this endeavor. Aside from what should have been obvious in shielding I have also been getting schooled in RS232 ports and NULL Modem cables. All things I have been researching on my own since the initial post. Anyway, thanks again.

One last thing...

Does the problem seem to come and go if you flex the PC board? You could have a bad solder joint.

I use the butt end of a small screwdriver or insulated rod and tap around on the board to locate the area for such intermittent faults.

Good tip but I did not try it. Given my limited experience with boards I am not ready to start soldering on them. If I screw up I can ruin the $1300.00 exchange value of the board and have to tell the boss it will cost $2600.00 now. I am learning to stay in the comfort zone as I get older. I will try this on a cheaper board in the future and hopefully gain some experience and confidence to do this on more valuable stuff. I am being asked to check out this stuff as we get more CNC machines here at the shop. Service calls are expensive and if it is something I can tackle I do it. There have been more things I can fix than not. But, computers and circuit boards are not my thing. My background is more in these areas: farming, welding, machining both manual and CNC, mechanical drives, hydraulics, pneumatics, chasing women marriage, and Crown Royal Royal Crown.