Nylock Nut or Serrated Flange Nut?

Nylock works MUCH better as long as heat is not a factor. Whenever you take one off, throw it away and use a fresh one...don't re-use.

As an example, I use them on my John Deere tractor on the rotary cutter. It locks the shear pin on. This is an extremely high vibration use and I have never had one come off.

Dear Mr.WJMFIRE,

Just I want to inform this Statement.

The NYLOCK nut has a Fibre made out of Nylon or any equivalent material, which will under go COMPRESSION,wile TIGHTENING the Nut. This COMPRESSED Fibre Strip Holds in Position with out Loosening, in the event of Vibration.

I was taught that the Nylock Nut SHOULD NOT BE FULLY TIGHTENED, in one SINGLE GO, in such away, that the Bolt Threads 2 or 3 is visible above the Nut. If done so, the NYLOCK PHILOSOPHY is LOST and it is as good as Ordinary Nut, but costly.

What we have been taught tighten the nut and to be tightened in such a way that only one fourth of the Nylon Fibre gets COMPRESSED and Leave it. It can work with out any problem. So the selection/decision of the Bolt Length is to be carefully done.

If the Nut is loosened and taken out, the same NUT can be used and TIGHTEN to GET Half the Fibre undergoes Compression. The same is the case for 3rd Time use, where the compression is made to three fourths. Thus 4 times it can be used.

The PHILOSOPHY is AS LONG AS THE COMPRESSIBILITY is NOT EXHAUSTED for the Nylon FIBRE the same Nut Can be used.

Let us see what other CR4 MEMBERS come up with their views.

DHAYANANDHAN.S

Okay I'm in the business of maintaining equipment. Not too happy with the use of lock nuts on areas of equipment that there is not enough vibration to warrant their use. As far as efficiency concerned. If it takes longer to remove the panels then it does repairing the machine because of the fasteners used it's a problem.

I've seen devices like motors and pumps fastened with use of lock nuts. That I know in assembly, they didn't put together as it needs to be done in the field. In assembly the devices were bolted to their bases and the base welded into place. Or they had easy access until all was together. In most these cases a lock nut was not warranted. Sometimes there is some over kill. Trying to foresee problem that are not there.

I'm not against the use of lock nuts. Have used them to make repairs to equipment that in design they over looked vibration loosing the fasteners. Just use them where they are needed.

I have on many occasions disassembled and assembled equipment that used the flange nuts. They hold up to vibration pretty well.

I remember 35 years ago when I was in high school, as I crawled out from under my '67 Fastback Mustang, and throwing the wrench with my bloodied knuckles... exclaiming "WHAT BONEHEAD DECIDED TO PUT THAT NUT IN THAT SPOT!!??"

That day I swore I would make my way into these car companies and move that nut for future mechanic's sanity.

Yes, I'm always aware of maintenance and disassembly issues when placing and spec'ing parts and fasteners. Unfortunately, many people are all too willing to give up on that effort too quickly, or just don't consider it at all. I hear ya.

So... I'll mark you down for Team Serrated Flange Nut.

For what it's worth, I agree that Nylocks are one time use and also SFNs are much easier to install because they can be spun on by hand.

The likelihood of the end user replacing Nylocks after each disassembly is nill, at best. So the multiple use aspect of SFNs also is a point for them.

_{I've given up working on cars because you can't get to ANYTHING any more. And I'm to old and weak.}

Go with the SFN - No question in my mind

Serrated Flange Nut wins almost every time.

In our work, the worst nylock offense we run into is where the previous installer has run the nylock 12 inches up the too-long rod. Who has time for that anyway?

That's just like the other guys mention about putting on and off more than once or twice, only they've killed it before it ever got seated the first time.

Even worse - running nylocks onto the end of a cut shaft - like threaded rod or a sawn bolt. As if that nylon is going to smooth out those threads!!! Yikes.

So, yes we use nylocks on certain tasks, but we mostly like SFN because they spin on fast and do the job right, and our SE is okay with them and is not requiring messy blue or red liquids or chap sticks so we are smiling and more happy

If they are subject to high temperatures the plastic lock in the Nylocks will melt, I'd stick with the Serrated Flange Nut. Torque to the right torque requirement and a regular maintenance plan should be fine

Serrated flange nuts definitely. All of the cabinet and bench-work in our service vans get at least 100,000 miles a year over some of the roughest roads in the Midwest/Indiana. In the winter around here you would think they would fill the basements they forgot to build houses on in the road surface. these flange bolts keep all of the cabinets together doesn't mean the body will stay intact but the cabinets stay together, all we have to do from time to time is weld patches in to the body and keep on going. but to this date no fastener failures.