Priming A Pump

Thanks KJK that is just what I needed to know... I've been watching it for a couple hours and it cuts in at 42 and out at 62, so this must be normal pressure after all. The pressure at the tap also seems as usual.

I did look at the adjusting screws, but of course nothing's labeled and indeed, I'm not fond of the shocks.

The hose is a mystery then... it certainly was left on in direct sunlight on a hot day, but I've never seen anything like this before. There were gashes where it broke, and maybe a foot or so of bulging and messed up hose around each break. They are old hoses, granted, but they sure looked like they were burst by significant force. There's a slow leak at the nozzle end, so all the water may have run out during the outage, and maybe the water rushing into the empty (and hot) hose was enough to burst it?

"The hose is a mystery then"

Maybe that's were the air went. And left in the sun maybe it blew up like a baloon in those spots.

It certainly did blow up.

Hose bomb... could we replicate it, I wonder. (Not in my yard, in your yard, Lyn. At the LynDoor hose bomb test facility. )

Or it could be that the Lyn-Door Industries goon squad sabotaged your idle hose to gain a few more sales in their industrial consumer hose division.

A pressure range of 20 psi is a normal factory setting. A pressure of 42 to 62 is quite reasonable and acceptable for most houshold uses. I could tell you how to adjust these switches if you like. A burst pipe indicates there are potentially problems with the points on the pressure switch (PS). Turn off the power and remove the cover from the PS. If you move the cutout switch that you use to restart the pump you will see the contacts open and close. Take a piece of emery or nail file and file off the carbon on these points. Sometimes on well used switches these points will stick closed and allow the pump to keep running. That may be the cause of the burst pipe. A second problem may have occurred with debris settling in the sensing tube that connects to the PS. Sometimes a power outage will allow debris and biofilms to slough into the water. If the sensing tube clogs, the pump could keep running. Assure it is clean.

Cutoff switches are good most of the time. Occasionally, a well could run out of water. The cutoff switch will open the points and shut off the pump to protect it from burning out (that is the main purpose of the cutoff switch). However, if the pump were to be running at the time the well went dry and no water usage downstream, the cutoff switch will detect a pressure higher than the cutout pressure. Then that cutoff switch will not activate and your pump will run with no water. It could burn out the pump or damage the impellers with no water running. I would replace the cutoff pressure switch with a standard PS without the cutoff and install a Pumptec. These devices are a bit more money but do work and have an auto restart. They measure amp/volt loads and any drop will cause a trip, like no water. They also trip on high amp/volt loads, like a broken impeller could cause.

Replace your pipe with at least 100 psi CSA/UL certified. FYI

Kevin,

This description of the switch maintenance is much appreciated. I have no doubt it's overdue for some maintenance in any case, so I will plan to do this during the summer.

Thanks!

restarting a pump after it sets idle will loosen up rust in the pump. the pressure switch could have picked up rust particals thowing it out of adjustment. i would'nt worry too much about it. it should fix it's self over time. meanwhile, enjoy the extra pressure.

Good point, DD, but I would follow up on that thought. The pressure line from the pump to the switch could easily get clogged. It is good practice to undo it from the switch and let it flush out, should get a good spray from that. Be ready to shove it right back on before you get something electric too wet!

If it's clogged, undo it from the pump end and clear the fitting from the pump, the line, and then test again.

If it were to get fully clogged, the pump would run all the time and make max pressure.

Thanks mike,

I'll keep that in mind if there's any further trouble.

IMO, if the garden hose is old and has been exposed to the hot hot sun and UV, there's no doubt in my mind that a momentary pressure surge could split the hose when you restarted up the pump, especially if the isolation valves on the discharge side were wide open.....you really should open them very slowly upon restarting your pump.

A lot depends on what type of pump you have as well as its operating head ratings.