Rear Brakes Problem

Many amateur spanner-thrashers advocate a coating of copper-based grease on the non-friction-surfaces in a braking system.

Perhaps the muffler or silencer should have been replaced as well.

Do you have a radio?

If you knew what type and model your motorcycle was, you could search for the procedure on the net. There's thousands of biker forums with this type of information.

Our crystal ball is broken, so we can't help more than PWSlack already has.

The quality of the answers given cannot be better than the quality of the information provided, which in this case is zero.

Just turn the radio up, till the noise goes away.

might be the cat you ran over, check between the fender and tire

Is it possible the new pads need time to wear in?

Jack I think you hit it on the head. On most brake pads there is a break-in procedure that almost no one follows even the so called professionals because it takes time and because time is money they tend to skip it. He will need to check with the manufacturer and find the proper break-in procedure. We have to do the break-in procedure on our pads before we go to the track or look out the first stop has a (PUCKER FACTOR) of 12 on a 1-10 scale. Believe me you don't want to go there at 200 +MPH. I now have a real respect for the brake manufacturers in their attempts to keep us safe. One YEE HAA ride was all I needed to find out what we had done wrong. Sometimes the procedure is in the instructions if people would open them up and read them their lives would be a lot safer. And if not on the installation instructions check the manufactures web site or call tech support for the info. Duke

Some more information is required to assist with an opinion, or at least one with merit.

What type of 'noise' are you experiencing? Is the sound evident at low speed? High speed? All speeds? And of course the make and model will also help.

Drum type or disc type?

If you haven't already done so, I would suggest you have the wheel and brake rotor/drum checked for tolerance runout and machined/returned to OEM specifications.

Avoid 100% fiber pads and use semi-metallic components that contain traces of carbon specifically designed to address the type of issues you are having.

Verify your brake cylinder is allowing the pads/shoes to release properly.

Consider installing a high performance vented rotor/drum system.

Depending on make and type of brake,drums have been covered so i'll concentrate on Discs.The slide Pins can wear which can cause a "click" as the brake is applied or the Pad Pins can wear with repeated use.As stated,without a Crystal Ball it's hard to say,are the Disc/s running true,is there a foreign Material on the Disc Surface ? Does the Lever "Pulse" as you apply the Brake ?Finally,i have seen Pads put in backwards and worn down to the Friction Material ! That would make some noise : )

Something I thought of later that a lot of people tend to do on motorcycles is they don't turn the rotor or at least stone the surface to get it flat so the pads can seat. That will cause them to squeal and sometimes vibrate / oscillate in the caliper and cause it to not slow down or stop efficiently if at all. It reminds me when my little brother tried to fix the squeal on our mini bike when we were kids. His thought was to stop the squeal, and that was to oil the pads. Guess who happened to ride it next and wasn't told of the thoughtful repair job by little brother. Yes I cleared the fence straight through and hit the neighbor's house. Nothing broke but my pride and a good yelling at by mom because I was going too fast until we were told about the thoughtful repair job, mom cooled off then and I think about it every time my brother comes over to get me to repair his motorcycle, maybe I will fix that squeak for him one of these days HA HA. Shame on me for thinking about that from all those years ago, oop's bad me. Duke