Stuck in 2nd

Is it throwing code P1776? That is is A/T Solenoid Switch latched in Low/Reverse position.

The transmission is know for bad solenoids packs and bad valve bodies so you probably have that as a root cause. If you go that route, be sure to replace both.

Now, it still could be something else:
Extremely low battery (system) voltage
Debris in transmission pan; probably broken valve body, so needs replacing anyway.

Thnaks, I will re-check the code i got for the Check Engine light. Related or not, you be the judge, but i had to replace the battery recently and you talk about issues!! It required the front passenger wheel to be removed so Autozone would not do it. Thank you for the comments. I won't continue to drive the car in its current condition because frankly the Atlanta roads are like an autobahn and the last thing i want is for my car to shut down while in traffic simply because i SLOWED down.

Go to Autozone and have them plug in their code reader. You can also have them clear the codes, but it's almost certain that they will reappear.

Based on your description, it sounds like the solenoid pack. As the fluid gets hot, the solenoid heats up and stops operating. Chrysler cars are notorious for this and the only cure is to replace the solenoid. Someone below posted replacing a single solenoid. I'm not sure if this is a good idea, since you may be back in the transmission replacing another one in short time.

Also, while you're having the work done, installing a rebuilt valve body is a good idea. Both can be done with the transmission in the car, which is a bonus. The valve body controls the fluid paths, so if one valve leaks or sticks, it will be telling the "working parts" of the transmission conflicting information - something like turn on the reverse clutch when the car is in drive. If the valve body starts to go, you're almost guaranteed to have damage to the hard parts of the transmission - a much more expensive repair requiring removal of the transmission.

I hope this helps.

Thank you. One more indulgence: Is $700 a reasonable price to pay for a solenoid pack replacement? I live in Atlanta and I can easily shop around but my car is having this issue and driving it may exacerbate the problem.

Transmission solenoid replacement takes about one hour on most vehicles.

Total cost for a mechanic to provide and install should be $300.00 or less.

Your mechanic appears to be a thief.

Here in Florida, this is sometimes what they morph into as a result of blonde women asking for pricing.

Well, I'm no blonde but here in the ATL...all women are preyed upon! Thanks for the caution. Now I'm thinking $165 for the transmission flush was a bit much?

You have a Mobile 1 Lube Express in Atlanta that would have done it for $110.00.

Regarding your transmission, there are multiple solenoids inside. Most parts stores have an instrument on hand that can diagnose which solenoid is bad, and sell it directly to you. They will do this for free if you take your car to them. There is no need to buy all solenoids (a solenoid pack). This mechanic is just selling you parts you don't need.

Then you can settle on an hourly rate for the work. If it takes him more than an hour, he is obviously in a Union.

Can individual solenoids be replaced on Saturns?

As I understand it, some (the dealer) will recommend replacing all at once. This is not a requirement however.

Since replacement takes less than an hour (2 hours for someone who has never done it) there is no argument for "might as well do them all while we are in there".

Sounds high to me....What fault codes are you getting if any? It may not be related to the transmission at all....

http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/19462-Removing-and-replacing-the-transmission-Solenoid-Pack-w-pictures/page4

I wouldn't spend any more money on that tranny. The Chrysler transmissions are notorious for crapping out at around 70K, if not less.

Just google "chrysler transmission problems" for the stories on these things.

If you can limp it to a dealership, get a written estimate from them. At least they will likely diagnose the right problem.

How can I tell for certain?

Thought that's what we paid the mechanics for to diagnose and repair the problem. Sounds like the one you found is just a parts changer. Having you throw money at it until he guesses the right part. Any good mechanic could have pulled the dipstick and checked the condition of the oil to know that was not the real problem.

I recommend you find another mechanic. One that is knowledgeable on transmissions and knows how to trouble shoot them.

Many years ago I had a Chrysler mini-van with the 3.0L V6 and at one point the computer control for the tranny got confused when I accidentally revved the engine while it was in neutral while rolling down the road and it stuck it in 2nd gear limp home mode. Shutting down the engine didn't help it. It stayed in that mode until I disconnected the transmission control module and it did a full reset. Disconnecting the battery lead should accomplish the same effect.

If you haven't already had the battery disconnected, it might be worth a try.

Good luck with your quest.

I will try anything...free. Thank you kind Sir.

I would also choose another mechanic. A transmission flush is simply for maintenance and should not be done to repair a problem. He should've ran his scan tool to find out the reason for the check engine light. Also, it would've been good for the next mechanic to see the condition of the fluid - it would help him assess the damage to the hard parts (burned smell and brown fluid, etc).

If your mechanic provides a valuable service, then I feel $165 for a transmission flush is a reasonable price. Same for the $700 for the solenoid pack. In your case, he wasted your money by misdiagnosing the problem and even $50 for the transmission flush would be too much.

Thank you...disregard the oncoming question. $700 it is!! but sheesh...

The transmission is designed to default to second when it fails. Being stuck in 2nd gear is called "limp-in mode". It is a fall-back condition when the transmission computer has noticed a problem and it does this to protect against futher unnecessary damage. It also means that a coded number has been stored in the computer that describes what is wrong and what is possibly the cause.
$700 was a good price. A Chrysler dealer is a better even at a higher price. Much of the cost is labor. A proper battery for you car costs more than $200 but they have to dissasembly part of the car to get the old one out and then put it back together. LABOR is not free.

yes, the 2nd gear is probably a Limp Home mode...

As for the mechanic, I've been taught many times that quite a few will rip you off if they can.

I found that by hanging out on a car specific ( I hang on Studebaker and BMW 7 series forums and even an aircraft forum) has saved my bacon many, many times....

Knowledge is POWER, Proper Knowledge is EXTREME POWER... me.