LCD Replacement

Old parts by themselves can be notoriously difficult to find.

Have you tried to find a similar controller with the required display you could cannibalize for parts?

Yes it is more expensive, but it may be cheaper than trying to redesign the original controller to work with a different display. As for will the alternative displays work, I don't know.

Hello Jack:

Yes, I did; I don't mind sacrificing a whole other apparatus if it has the same display.

If you happen to see one, tell me where.... wait, er.. What?! no cannibal emoticons? OK I go for the closest match:.

Thank you !

Optrex the manufacture is now Kyocera Display might want to check with them.

These displays use a common driver system, the HD44780.

The chances that the 40 x 1 would work are pretty good - you might get random garbage for the last 8 characters though. If you can get one cheap off eBay and can bear to lose that money if it doesn't work - go for it!

If a 40x2 is cheaper then the first line will be the same as a 40x1. The second line may be filled with blocks. I used white on blue 16x2 and they came up as blocks when not initialised (cleared by software).

Hi Yahlasit.

You can use any SERIAL LCD you want provided that you modify the code. Here is the Datasheet link.

http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/114919/OPTREX/DMC32132.html

Here is the link to how to address the characters:

http://www.eng.uwo.ca/electrical/e-shop/data-sheets/LCD.pdf

What is the LCD used for?

Not quite. The DMC-32132 uses an 8 bit or 4 bit parallel bus interface - not serial.

I have run into the same problem with an integrated pc that runs our select colder machine. I ended up gutting a newer monitor of its LCD and all the electronic that it uses to operate it. I then removed the busted LCD from the integrated pc and did an entire swap. I wasn't able to hook the power controlling board from the mother board to the newer LCD as the power supplies were rated at different voltage. I was able to solder the monitor cable to the mother board, the I used an externally mounted toggle switch that I soldered leads from my power cord to the power board that energizes the new LCD and to the 120v power cord that now plugs into an outlet to control the on/off function. After buttoning it all up it looked stock with the exception of an extra toggle switch and power cord... any questions?

I can give a hint in the right direction.

As long as The character encoding and (polarity) is the same standard way, it ought to come up legible. If formatted strangely, maybe.

Humans are superbly adaptable to readable, but in some sense squirrely displays.

According to this your LCD is 44780 compatible so any line number 44780 LCD's will work OK. Functionally that is, it will print the most characters it can hold on first line (only). I' m not sure how you 're going to make a 2 line LCD look decent, sitting in a single line space ... S.M.