Split Air Conditioner Problem

You will need to clean the evaporator coil. If you can dry it out, and get a really good suction vac with a brush, you may be able to remove the crud. Compressed air may help, but be careful with a blast that can bend the fins over. Refer shops over here have spray cans of cleaning chemicals. but these are generally only meant for the outside coil and require flushing with lots of water, as they are caustic. They will leave the fins shiny.

If it was put together with screws, you should be able to get to the fan motor. The motor may be welded, as I assume it's a shade pole motor. Most likely they are sleeve bearings. If it's making noise, the shaft is most likely spalled. But I don't know what your standards are, as well if this has any speed control.

I assume 10 years old is R-22. A couple if thing's to consider. R-22 is phasing out, R410a is the replacement. If you decide to replace the unit it is a total replacement, evaporator, condenser and line set. The motor is accessible, consult your service manual. If it is just cleaning use Evap- power from nucalgon. Just spray it in, it is self rinsing. Good luck, its actually easy to replace the motor blower assembly, but do it as a total replacement. If you try to do just the motor you will screw up the blower wheel.

Ten years is a long time .if you can , just replace it,but if you still want this machine ,do this.With the help of an A/C technician,pump down the machine by closing service valves,dscharge valve first until your manfold gauge reading is zero Psi then close tightly the suction service valve.Isolate power,dismantle the indoor unit,take it out to a free space.Run the water gently along the fins.Use a fin comp or wire brush to gently remove the crud. dont damage the fins.Dont use high prssure water cleaners as water can splash out and damage sme electrical components and the p c board.DONT PUT WATER ON ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS.

They make a foaming coil cleaner that does not require rinsing.It goes into the spaces between fins as a liquid, and expands into a foam, pushing the dirt and crud out with it.Home Depot,Lowes, etc. carry it as foaming evaporator coil cleaner.Make sure it is the no rinse formulation.Insofar as access to the unit, it may be screwed,riveted, or tack-welded together.Rivets can be drilled out,very carefully,and if they begin to spin while drilling, which they usually do, use a very sharp chisel to shear off the heads,then use a drift punch to punch them thru.The screws or rivets may be hidden under a layer of foil tape or mastic, so look carefully.

You did not really define the problem with the unit.You simply said it was very dirty. Is it not cooling?A dirty Evap coil could cause this,but so could several other things,like improper freon charge(Too high, or too low),dirty air return filter, expansion valve malfunction,compressor problems, etc.

Giving more info will get more info.

Norm, Viewing your avatar I see you may have some type of earth contact or berm home so air born contaminants may very well be what you refer to as a lot of crud in the finned unit LOL.

While sitting here in Kansas with 32F and blowing snow and you at 32C I googled your model number and to my surprise a very impressive online parts website bigwarehouse.com.au popped up. You can search for all parts stocked by model number of the unit. If you need a mechanic to service the unit most parts places can refer you to a local service firm if you need help. If not you should review the parts listed for that unit and you will see that some parts have been obsoleted (circuit board etc) and if no sub parts can be found you may be forced to replace the unit but if you're handy with a soldering iron you might be able to repair a board but I would think 10 years would be a pretty good life time on the compressor too.

I too was forced to replace a 13 year old unit but my electric bill went down 40% (very quick ROI within months) You do the math If you replace a poorly operating unit actually running 6 to 8 seer with a 13 to 19 seer but then again everything on paper doesn't fly out in the field either and I don't know what a KW costs on the other side of the world. We are charged 7.5 cents but some surrounding states are 35 cents KW residential rates and if your temperature now is 86F what is the temp on July 4th?

It's not a DIY job Norm. Contact a reliable, reputable HVAC service firm foradvice and help.

Lou Bindner

Hi guys, Sorry about the lack o response, due partly to a few major health issues..! I still have the problem of the air conditioner that doesn't air condition. At the minute, temps are in the order of mid to high thirties so I'm getting a bit of flak to get it fixed, or, heaven forbid, replaced. I've had tech take a look and he assures me it doesn't need gas, and that to him there didn't appear to be much wrong with it..!$&@0();?! . I'm a retired electrician and obviously I tend to think along those lines. I think the problem is a crook Thermistor..! It would appear that there are two thermistors, one each in the outdoor and indoor units. It would be real nice if I could source a wiring diagram..! any ideas Fellahs..? It is an NEC. RSC2400 Thanks, norm