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Guru
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Lightning Protection

08/25/2013 4:36 PM

I have had several losses due to lightning strikes. They have taken out computers, stereos and TV's. I look up "surge protectors" and find an enormous array of surge protectors. They vary in Joule rating, which doesn't tell me anything. If one has a rating of say 2400 joules, is that enough to protect electronic equipment from lightning strikes or just from power line fluctuation and peaks?

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Guru

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#1

Re: Lightning Protection

08/25/2013 4:58 PM

The best lightning protection is an 'all of the above' approach....starting with proper grounding.....here is a guide to protecting your home↓↓↓

http://www.lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm/IEEE_Guide.pdf

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Guru

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#2

Re: Lightning Protection

08/25/2013 5:07 PM

Not that simple. How far from your house the lightning strikes is what gives your devices survival chanses. Actually the lightning instantly released energy is on megaJoules range, and almost nothing unprotected will survive if it gets dirctly hit. Now if you are on high grounds or you are near a long range transmission line that passes from high grounds you could make special provisions. A parallel to mains overvoltage shunt as is the common practice for "protectors" is NOT enough for the terribly unprotected electronic devices we use. There MUST be enough SERIAL impedance before the protection device for it to survive and protect your equipment. The alternative is to make a habit of keeping all your equipment powercords and antennas UNPLUGGED when unused and of course not use it on danger-days. S.M.

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#3

Re: Lightning Protection

08/25/2013 9:21 PM

Actually the link provide by SE is a very comprehensive collection of multiple layers of protection, how they work, and the protection provided. Unfortunately lightning doesn't always follow the rules, and direct strikes tend to vaporize anything its path.

So your "best" protection is to use multiple layers depending upon how paranoid much money you have to spend relative to the replacement cost of the equipment. Even unplugging the line cords is no guarantee that the EMP (Electro Magnetic Pulse) from a nearby strike won't induce enough energy in the cords to smoke the IC junctions in the chips.

Lightning is a force of nature that man can't completely control.

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Power-User

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#4

Re: Lightning Protection

08/26/2013 12:06 AM

I'm still trying to work out how to get a grounding rod higher than the aerial and shortest path to ground to 'protect' my equipment. Our home is the the tallest house in the area and also on the highest point (not mountainous, just relative to all others in the 5km radius) and when electrical storms come, it's very likely to hit our aerial taking out anything in it's path. Surge protectors do nothing for me. My only defence is to turn off and unplug (aerial, power, cable/broadband and connections between equipment) anything of value. Although I do this, I still keep a reserve stock of coax splitters to replace when all the caps are fried ( I have 4 splitters in the roof area that need replacing when hit).

Good luck

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Guru

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#6
In reply to #4

Re: Lightning Protection

08/26/2013 1:22 PM

The path of lower resistance provides your best chance, but nothing is infallible. Lightning does not always follow our logic.

Use a standard lightning rod (air terminal) approach. Even at the same height as the aerial it would provide a better chance of attracting the stroke if more electrically enticing. A separation of at least 6 ft should (shall) be maintained between your antenna wires and the lightning conductors.

Keep the down conductor from the system as short as possible to dedicated ground rods. Be sure to bond the dedicated ground rods to your house's electrical service grounding system (required by the National Electrical Code...insurance companies love this).

Isolate your antenna's mast from the structure as much as possible so as to not provide a path through the mast to the house. Subsection 4.21.2 of NFPA 780 includes a method for calculating flashover distances. The connections from the antenna should be routed normally, but a lightning arrestor should be used external to the entrance of the leads, again, using the dedicated, or another dedicated ground rod for the arrestor (and again, bonded to the house's ground).

Also remember, though convenient, lightning-rod conductors shall not be employed as electrodes for protectors and grounded metallic members (as replacement for normal system grounding).

See the following for in-depth explanation: NFPA 780-2011, Standard for the Installation of Lightning Protection Systems

(The link isn't working for me right now because I am at work (gov't computer...go figure) but should work for most.)

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#5

Re: Lightning Protection

08/26/2013 3:34 AM

To understand what does and does not work, first start with concepts originally taught in primary school science.

Lightning seeks earth ground. A path for a 20,000 amp electric surge is via a wooden church steeple destructively to earth. Wood is not a good conductor. So 20,000 amps creates a high voltage. 20,000 amps times a high voltage is high energy. Church steeple damaged.

Franklin installed a lightning rod. Now 20,000 amps is via a wire to an earthing electrode. High current creates near zero voltage. 20,000 amps times a near zero voltage is near zero energy. Nothing damaged.

Lightning seeks earth ground. A lightning strike to utility wires far down the street is a direct strike, incoming to every household appliance, destructively to earth. Appliances are not a good conductor. So lightning creates a high voltage. Lightning current times a high voltage is high energy. Appliances damaged.

For over 100 years, facilities that cannot have damage installed superior earthing connected low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') via one 'whole house' protector. Then high current creates near zero voltage. 20,000 amps times a near zero voltage is near zero energy. No appliance is damaged.

Protection of a structure is a properly earthed lightning rod. Protection of appliances inside the structure are properly earthed utility wires (either directly or via a protector). In every case, neither protector nor lightning rod do protection. Instead, those devices only connect to what always does protection - earth ground.

How does a protector rated at only 2400 joules somehow absorb destructive surges that are hundreds of thousands of joules? It doesn't. A completely different device (unfortunately also called a protector) should be at least 50,000 amps. Consider the completely different and effective 'whole house' protector. A solution that also costs less money.

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#7

Re: Lightning Protection

08/27/2013 5:42 AM

On this subject, refer to the blog post, and follow included links, from SE top expert ..

http://blog.schneider-electric.com/power-management-metering-monitoring-power-quality/2013/08/22/6-facts-and-fictions-about-lightning/

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