Kia Sportage Cutting Off

Sounds like it needs a new brain.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-07-Kia-Sportage-2-0L-AT-Engine-Computer-ECM-2007-5016/111154303537?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D2536211231051716463%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D141085925247%26#ht_2034wt_1124

I just used the site for descriptive purposes.

PS- If you briefly describe your problem in the thread title, rather than using your name, it will probably yield more results.

Thanks for the reply about the problems I'm having with the car kramarcat. That was only my second post so with your help, maybe I'll get better with the next post. Although to be honest, I got help from you within an hour. Thanks again ��

I would try changing the transmission fluid....changing the fuel filter.....checking fuel pressure during operation....changing spark plugs and wires....

http://www.kia-forums.com/2g-2005-2010-sportage/58114-double-check-before-transmission-fluid-change.html

http://www.ask.com/question/how-do-i-change-the-fuel-filter-on-a-kia-sportage

http://www.fixya.com/tags/kia_sportage_fuel_pump

Will any of those turn off the air bag light?

Air bag light is still on. It was on when I took it to the dealership. I just thought a wire had come loose (it had before) but thats not the case this time. My mechanic has the car now. If they can't figure out whats going on, I'll print off all replies and they can start with whichever one they think may fix the problem. Do you think there's a connection between the air bag and the other problems??

Most of these glitches sort themselves out with 3 or 4 cycles of use....If it stays on for an extended period of time, then an investigation would be warranted.....

http://www.kia-forums.com/2g-2005-2010-sportage/48168-airbag-light.html

I don't know how long a cycle is but I do know the air bag was on at 47,000 miles and is still on at 53,000.

A cycle is a start and run up to operating temperature, shut down and cool off....

Then you probably have an impact sensor with a faulty connection....A scan tool should detect which sensor is the problem....

http://www.partstrain.com/ShopByDepartment/Scan_Tool_and_Code_Reader/KIA/SPORTAGE

Thanks for the reply SolarEagle. I'll see if I can get the mechanic to see if they can find their paperwork from the first time I took it in and see if they did any of the work you've listed. I know they changed at least one filter but can't remember whether it was fuel or air or which one. I know I'm grasping at straws but I don't want to buy another auto and I'm not going to trade it and let someone else have these problems and maybe someone get hurt or killed by this auto. I think I may end up having to do 1 or 2 things at a time till (hopefully) I can get the auto fixed. I hope by doing a few thing at a time, I can help someone else so they won't have to spend bunches of money if they have the same problems. Thanks again for your help

It may cost some money for an estimate, but a dealership will give you an accurate diagnosis. It could save you a bundle in the long run.

You could have your own mechanic perform the work.

I took the auto to the dealership when it first started messing up. Check engine light was on, along with the ESP light and airbag light. The mechanic drove it (it cut off with him) and the code they got they said wasn't causing the car to do what it was doing. It did cost $50.00 to have it checked. They said there was a recall on the ESP light and they would charge me $500.00 and it may or not fix the problem. I don't have the papers from the dealership as my car is with the mechanic and the papers are in the glove box. I lost the papers from where my mechanic worked on it. By the way, the dealership did fix the ESP light (which came back on within a week).

I would unplug the battery for 20 to 30 minutes. To reset the ECM. Then drive it normally for a good 30 minutes. See how many of the problems return.

Ozzb I will talk to the mechanic in the morning and suggest it if they didn't find anything today. It's worth a try. The other answers sound good too. I'm gonna print everything off and take it to them and see what they think. I think they are really good mechanics but from what I've read on the Internet, there are no sure answers that will fix the problem, just a lot of guesswork. Thanks for the reply

Many times, it's better if a car just quits altogether.

Loosing power, "check engine" light, you mention that you've used additives, stopping when slowing (coasting without throttle) all implies to me that you've got a fuel problem that could be anywhere from a partial blockage in fule lines (gel or similar), fuel filter choked, injectors or fuel delivery system fouled.

Check engine light could also relate to the exhaust gas analyser sensing a "bad burn" situation.

I don't know what "seafoam" is or its intended outcome, but it sounds like the car is being unable to cope with the (modified) fuel that is being added.

Solution: Complete fuel system purge, clean injectors/intake and all associated components and then refill with STANDARD fuel from the pump.

There was a thread here some time ago about testing fuel for water content.

The other suggestion about a new "brain" also makes sense. Had exactly the symptoms you described with cutting out when going down hill and no throttle. Eventually totally failed and would not start. Dealership would not comment, but local garage remarked that this problem was so well known that there were re-conditioned or new replacement units available. (Mitsubishi)

My first bet is the ECU is progressively failing, followed a close second by compromised fuel system.

Seafoam was suggested by the guy where I buy gas. I was telling him about the problems I had been having and the work I had done on it and he suggested I try the seafoam. It's supposed to be good to clean engine parts, etc and can be added to gas or used other ways (youtube has good videos about it). I know the seafoam isn't the problem as it was used AFTER the problems started. I switched gas stations thinking there may be water in the gas and have even tried 4 tanks of ethanol free gas. I can't see where anything I've tried so far is making any difference. But I can tell you what was bad to begin with has gotten worse with the new problems. And it can happen when you drive for 5 minutes or 30 minutes. Thanks for the reply.

I looked on the internet to see what ECU is on an auto. Electronic Control Unit and Engine Computer Unit came up. Since I don't know anything about autos, I was wondering which one you are talking about in your post? Thanks

Engine control unit

Wal thanks for clearing up what the ECU is.

With such a broad assemblage of issues, I would suggest that you bring the routine maintenance issues up to par. Fuel filter, check the condition of the plugs. Look for coils or plug wires not functioning correctly. After that, clear any stored codes, and drive the car. Check for any codes that show up now. Treat each system separately. The air bag light should not be related to the ESP light. Good luck.

Bob thank you for your reply. I will print everything off and take it to the mechanic and see what they think they should do next to fix the problem. Thanks again

Internet auction sites (names withheld) are great for solving problems like this. One simply lists the item with description and a few photographs, then a few days later someone shows up with some money, swaps it for the vehicle, and the problems go away.

My first thought would be the Idle Air Control Solenoid.It provides air for combustion when the throttle plate is totally closed,as when backing off of the throttle.It is modulated (opened or closed, or partially opened or closed) by commands from the Engine Control Module(ECM) to provide a stable idle.

My next guess would be the Mass Flow Air Sensor,located in the throttle body.This tells the ECM how much air is coming into the engine, so it can make adjustments to the fuel delivery to the engine.Sometimes it only needs cleaning,and con be performed by almost any mechanic.

Another potential problem could be a crack or hole in the intake ducting or filter box.More likely on the underside of the flex hose,due to bending when servicing.

A leaky or cracked vacuum hose can also cause problems by allowing air to bypass the sensors,resulting in a rich mixture.(This is contrary to the old engines where a vacuum leak would make it run lean.)

An unmeasured air leak makes the O2 Sensors sense too much oxygen and the ECM tries to adjust by adding more fuel.This can cause fouling of the spark plugs and rough running,as well as poisoning the O2Sensors.

Below is a link to a troubleshooting forum that may prove helpful if you spend the time looking at similar issues with Kia's and other cars.Most modern cars have a similar control strategy,with minor variations,and different error codes for certain things.However,many have the same(Generic) codes for the same issues.

Good Luck.

HTRN

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/car_stalls_P150879/gforum.cgi?post=131939;search_string=2006%20kia%20;guest=39698367&t=search_engine#131939a

Thank you for your input on this problem. I appreciate everyone who has tried to help with the issue. After doing an Internet search, I had 11 possibilities before I posted here. After posting I think I added a couple. Hopefully, with everyone's help, I will get back into an auto I can feel safe in because now I am scared to drive it. Thanks again

If your mechanic drove the car, and experienced said problem, and can't figure out what's wrong, it's time for a new mechanic.

The car cut off when the dealerships mechanic drove it, not my mechanic

OUCH!

You mentioned that the dealer's mechanic checked the OBD for error codes and declared that the error code that was observed "couldn't be the problem".

What was the error code that was observed?

That recall fix didn't last long either. What was the nature of the fix? It doesn't sound like it was properly fixed. Take it back to the dealer to actually get your money's worth.

Get a third opinion. It's a bit hard for us to diagnose this without touching or looking at your car in the flesh.

I think the dealership mechanic may have written the code on a piece of paper that is in the car at my mechanics. I am assuming he did but I'm really not sure he wrote down a code #⃣ . I can't remember what was on the paper I got when I left the dealership. I don't know what was done to fix the ESP recall. If I took it back to the dealership I would probably have to pay another $50.00 for them to look at it. To be honest I don't trust them. I have reasons for that too but I won't get into that because it has nothing to do with the problems with the auto. Thanks again

Trust is very important. I'm sorry to hear that what should be the best place to find a remedy is the least trustworthy. I have had this predicament in the past.

What to do then? Ask your mechanic, whom you trust, to ask some other mechanics whom he trusts. All trades have networks.

I was told by the lady who owns the shop that she is talking to a couple of mechanics outside her shop so hopefully someone will come up with a solution. I've tried to get in touch with someone on here known as Lakerpaul who was having a problem with stalling in I think 2011 with his 2005 Kia Sportage. The last post he made he said he had corrected the problem by replacing the throttle position sensor. But it had only been 3 days. I tried to contact him and ask if that really had corrected the problem. I hope to hear back from him but I'm not really expecting to. All you guys have been great trying to help me out and I really do appreciate you all taking the time to try to solve this mystery.

I started this discussion about the Kia Sportage cutting off in 2013. I had a lot of people telling me what it might be. I had it fixed last year & wanted to share what the mechanic did. Sorry it has taken so long to post this but maybe it will help someone who is having the same problem. The mechanic replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor) sensor. He said the Kia dealership told him they had come out with new ones. I am assuming it should have been recalled but it wasn't. Anyway, the mechanic said he could get one from Kia or a cheaper one. I asked which one he suggested and he said the one from Kia. He got the part and replaced it and it hasn't cut off since then. It cost about $200.00 with parts and labor and was the best $200.00 I've ever spent. I feel safe having my grandkids in the car now.

Thanks for posting and letting us know. It looks like we all were wrong. Except for the one outside contact, who also had the same car/problem. Hiteckredneck was close with his suspicion of the air flow sensor. The TPS, and the AFS should agree under low load conditions. He just was on the wrong side of the equation. Good luck .