Inverter "INPUT=60V" Help?

That link will be necessary. Did you state the inverter is a grid- tie type?

it can be charged from the grid (but cannot sell power back to the utility company) and has a option to connect solar panels at the back, it has input solar power of 60A(will upgrade to solar to next year)

http://www.medielectronics.com/attachments/article/49/write-up.pdf

http://www.medielectronics.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49&Itemid=

http://share.pdfonline.com/8edaf830d7d642cca872e2db6b58ddf3/001.pdf

please copy link and paste

CR4 Admin: disabled broken link

The way you made your diagram makes it a perfect destroyer of everything that is connected to your inverter. ( Breaker flipper?) What is actually the purpose of this no thing?

You just cannot connect an inverter to the grid when it is not made for it. I also see no battery charging circuit or transfer switch.

The links you have given do not give me access to something useful too.

i think you have misunderstood the diagram, here inverters are installed in that way only...

this is the inverter:http://www.ebay.in/itm/SOLAR-DIGITAL-Hi-Tech-2000VA-InverterHome-UPS-DSP-MOSFET-SMPS-4-Stage-Charging-/261345001676?pt=IN_Home_Appliances&hash=item3cd96040cc

the inverter CHARGES fromt the grid. gives IMMEDIATE backup power when grid power is down...

it has inbuilt "CHARGER" AND "AUTOMATIC TRANSFER FROM BATTERY TO MAINS AND VICE VERSA", using a relay inside the unit, and INBUILT SOLAR CHARGER in the unit itself

the brekers are MCB's...

If your inverter is designed and rated to carry the load, it will be best and safer for you to leave Open (disconnected) the MCB that feeds the load from main lines directly!

All you need is an exclusive OR switch (interlocked) that you can use to select which power source you want to utilize. Having both power sources connected all the time is an accident waiting to happen (shock hazard) for anybody,including yourself!

i have put such mcb's for safety so that when on short circuit, they will trip...

but nobody uses trasfer switches/change overs at homes/shops/office for inverters here...

they are wired the same way i had given.

chabge overs are used only for generators, sometimes they simply backfeed switching off the mains(i know how much dangerous it is to backfeed)

and were you unable to open the links?

please ask things to the point don't tell story

The circuit should be more like the attached, to prevent any incident of supplying the inverters on their outputs!! you could blow them out!This might also clear you problem.

The Neutrals could be linked all together

if acceptable, so that it is grounded in one

place.

then what about the loads that run on non-inverter?(only utility power?), i cant run everything on that inverter itself...

just checked right now and phase neutrals and all things are correct, the inverter is showing "INPUT=67v" if the input mcb of the respective inverter is turned off...

and still i get a shock from the battery(not really touch the terminals, used a neon lamp-tester in a screwdriver)

and the neon light doesnt light if the input mcb of the respective inverter is turned off.

there is no issure with battery charging or backup time, only this problem...

i forgot to measure the Battery + (or) - AC voltage to ground and then neutral also

and im sure that nothing will happen. inverter will trip with overload if its output goes to its input... every house is wired in the same way here...

i have neutral grounded at service interance only.

and at night

the non inverter mains mcb is switched off,

and inverter output mcb's are switched off,

levaing only the inverter input mcb's on to let them charge at the night.

so Phase and Neutral gets completely cut at all places except(i mean switchboards) that the phase and neutral travels upto the inverter and stops there.

Exactly! Therefore, you need to connect the way I showed in my drawing, for the loads that need the UPS (You are saying that there is a switching delay of 10ms, which means that when there is supply from either the Utility or the Generator, these will be loaded while the batteries are charging. The UPS will deliver power when there is an interruption of the other supllies).

The Loads that do not need the UPS, or are not to be condidered when on UPS, can be connected from just before the MCB of the UPSs (i.e. as a parallel branche to the ones for the UPSses.

On the matter of the electric shock: You said that the metal body of the UPS is reading a voltage to Ground ( using a neon tester). If the MCB supplying the UPS is Open when this is tested, then there is an internal leak, from the output circuitry, back to the input Phase, since the Neutral is directly connected from input to output, and is supposed to be grounded to earth on your circuit (even with the MCB Open, your Neutrals are connected to the inlet Neutral through the other direct supplies).

Finally, it is not acceptable to wire an electric circuit in such a way that you have to rely on a human not to make a mistake and switch on a device that is definitely going to short-circuit the supply and trip an MCB!(under the pretext that it is protected by that MCB !!). The least that will happen, will be damaging you UPS, totally or partially (which might be the reason why there is some power leaking backwards ... maybe a partially damaged component?).

there are 2 gensets.

one is mine(completely switches utility power with a 200A changeover),(not shown in diagram)

while other one, (in the dagram, between utility/my genset and UPS/INVERTER) is not my genset , but a community genset like only limited no. of light and fans should be connected, and i have to pay a montly fee for that...

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recently before i had this setup installed (no mcb's, a qualified electrician not available in my place, he used a single isolator and a 100A fuse, thats all then

i had a table fan and the wires were bad(not externally, they looked good, but had a internal shortcircuit at the plug of the table fan, so after a few seconds, the whole wire melted and smoked...

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so the inverter/UPS is defective?

This your last comment was not clear to me as to its contribution to the initial topic.

If you are asking me whether the fact that the table fan wires got bad and shorted ... is a reason for the Ups TO HAVE BECOME DEFECTIVE, then I cannot answer this 100%! It is possible.

But the fact that the wires caught fire and melted due to the short circuit, is a clear indication that the safeties required in the normal professional job of designing and wiring a household electrical system have been dumped in the dust bin by you.

It is not an excuse to ignore the basic rules of safety because 'THIS IS HOW THINGS ARE DONE ARROUND in my neighbourhood'! Please excuse my uppercase. It is just to highlight the topic.

To come back to your question (as I seem to understand it), Yes it is possible that some part inside your UPS, could have fried enough to become faulty and pass over some voltage back to the input side instead of blocking it. It could be on the bypass relay or some diodes ... I can't tell from here. By the way, this effect can also be seen to happen on some cheaper products in the market of electronic devices that have not been properly isolated/designed ...

I contacted Medi and they told me to put a 0.1 uf/400v capacitor between input phase and neutral Then it will show input=000v And the same 0.1 uf/400v between batt -ve to earth And connect earth to cabinet of inverter Then the ac voltage on dc side will be absent... Sending from mobile, unable to type enter for next line, And i meant that before installing this whole se tup, that fan thing happened. But now it wouldn't Here its a rural area and the illiterate electricians installed that way Using isolators and not mcbs ===== Is there any problem in the neutral wiring in the diagram? It splits at inverter/non inverter section and again joins together at swichboard I measured the current flowing in the neutral wires were split among the two, using a clamp meter Means if non inverter phase is 5A, neutral of non inverter is 7A Phase of inverter is 8A, neutral of inverter is 6A Will it cause any problem

It is difficult to understand exactly how you measured these currents.

Normally, the phase current should be equal to the neutral current in every branche.

As I said before, the wiring is not very clear and shoul follow a similar design as i sent before.

In Short; If you measure the current in any phase, whether at the input of the inverter or at the output of the inverter, you must compare it to the current of the neutral at the input and at the output , respectively. (that is input with input on the same side etc.). In your circuit, the neutral is common (it seems) at input and at output, and can have 2 routings to reach the primary connection at the mains (?).

The best way is to re-wire the system as described, to eliminate possibility of shortcircuits or clashes between 2 sources. Then the neutrals can be linked together if the local regulation does not prevent it for specific reasons... Please get a reputable electrician from the nearest town (as opposed to village). or at least stick to the diagram flow I showed. In that diagram, if you measured the Phase and neutral currents, at each branch separately, you must have them equal.

In your circuit, the neutral is common (it seems) at input and at output, and can have 2 routings to reach the primary connection at the mains (?).

yes... neutral can reach primary neutral in 2 ways...

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i measured current using a clamp meter...

why i have avoided a seperate neutral because, the lights and fans in the ceiling were wired commonly during construction of false ceiling, so only one neutral wire is in the swich board, and i cant sepearate non inverter and inverter neutrals

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as you say, if i switch off the inverter input mcb then the non inverter phase and neureal ciurrents are same...

again if i switch off non inverter load and measure phase and neutral currents in inverter load then they both are same.

but will this cause any problem( shortcircuits or clashes? how?)

Your forseable problem will be in case you want to use a current differential circuit breaker (or as it is called RCD) which will sense an imbalance in the current returning from a branching. This will keep tripping and you will have to do without it Unless you re-wire correctly to avoid such double returns on the neutral.

so now there will be no problem...

As you describe it, it sounds more like a UPS? (uninterrupted power supply)

Exactly! Here we call ups if its attached to a computer This one has solar input also and can handle large loads and has 10ms switching time(no reboot of pc) between mains and battery, and in sync with mains