Oil, Lubrication, Combustion

If we are talking 4 stroke petrol motor, yes and with blue smoke at least until the oil exists in the sump. When that runs out the motor will stop. If there is lots of oil entering the combustion chamber it my stop running due to the sparkplug fouling

If we're taking diesels then that is also yes with potential for engine speed runaway, until you run out of engine oil then the motor will stop or go bang then stop.

If we're talking about turbo diesels then you will also have the potential of engine speed runaway and if it is caused by a failed turbo oil seal then the you should run away until you hear the bang.

Diesels in this condition can be only stopped by shutting the air supply off

sonali-

Yes, that's how two cycle engines work except the mixing of the oil is usually with the fuel. A suitable metering pump would facilitate the mixing at the chamber.

No, for two cycle engines unless the setting is extremely oil rich. A rich mixture will also kill all the mosquitos for at least a mile radius.

You would also devise a method for providing lubricating oil.

Good Luck, Old Salt

Sure, you can run a mechanically-injected diesel engine on waste motor oil quite nicely. As long as it is clean. Performance is just about the same.

Jon.

Yes, it is almost impossible to prevent lubricating oil from mixing into the combustion chamber. Especially as the parts wear. Generally engines can tolerate this up to the point that either the fuel mix gets too diluted or the sparkplugs get fouled or too much waste carbon builds up. The oil can lower the octane rating of the fuel mixture and allow pre-ignition (which damages parts).

Some engines, like 2-cycle or diesel, are designed for oil mixed with their fuel. They are less impacted than 4-cycle engines but can still suffer the same effects if there is too much oil mixed with the fuel.

Sonali,

When I bought my Mazda RX-2 (now that dates me), I learned that it had an oil injection pump to add oil to the fuel, to assist in lubricating the various rotor seals. Seemed to run OK and met all the California emissions standards of that day. Noticed that I had to add a quart of oil periodically, however. Engine had very low inertia and could get to red-line incredibly quickly; also had a lot of power for its small displacement. Top speed was at the red-line in 4th gear, close to 115 mph--not bad for 70 cubic inches.

--JMM

Add oil to petrol of 4stroke petrol engine at 1/200 if using the car for short distance driving and the engine and exhaust system last for ever. [Do not add oil if the engine is in bad shape and already using 500 ml oil or more over 1000km.]

Add filtered engine oil to diesel and for old engines or if its cold, add max 15% petrol for cleaner burning, easy starting and less knocking.

No harm done!

Make sure that cooling system thermostat is working properly.

Some 4 cycle engines combust lubrication oil all on their own.

My first car was a '49 Ford with a flathead 6. It was over twenty years old when I got it, well past its design life of maybe 60,000 miles.

At 100,000 miles that 6 cylinder engine just pumped oil past the pistons and rings. This was way before the closed crankcase with PVC valves; it had a crankcase breather tube attached to the cover plate over the valves.

That breather tube blew huge clouds of blue-white smoke, particularly noticeable when stopped at a corner.

More than once, I had people tell me my car was on fire, from all the smoke it blew.

It used a quart every 100 miles, but when a case of 24 quarts cost $10 on sale, adding oil was cheaper than doing any repair. It drove from western NY to California smoking like a military smoke generator and back again a year later.