Hooking Up a Split Phase Squirrel Cage Motor

Connect the ground to that green screw on the outside.

Rather than guessing, just take it to a shop and have them put a male plug on it and be done with it.

I just use the (W)hite wire goes to the (W)ide side of the plug, method, but I'm not sure if the OP should be messing with this project. I think he should at least have someone have a look at his work before he plugs it in.

Oh, come on. Split phase=50/50 chance of getting it right, right?

I bought a new pool pump. 220V single phase. I had my friend who is an electrician come and hook it up.

I'm fine with 110V light switches and receptacles, anything else, I call someone.

That 110 kills more than any of them.

I'm good with most of it, (after studying it on the internet), but my main advantage is that electricity still scares me.

If this was 480 (which does scare the hell out of me), I would agree, but the worst that could happen is molten metal flying out and burning his eyes. Maybe a little electrocution.

I'm pretty sure the OP will not touch any metal parts of the motor housing or the fan it's bolted to, until the fan runs as expected, and the safety ground is connected properly (as Jraef indicated in his post). And if sparks occur, he learns something.

I hope the OP has some crimp on terminals for round stud connecting (ring type), use this on terminal 1 and 4.

The motor will run hot as there is no back pressure or suction static (caused by a furnace heat exchanger and air plenum's) to limit air flow through the fan. At least that's been my experience using these as cooling fans.

I used to swap the brass and silver screws on receptacles, then put them back in the boxes and part bins.

I would watch the apprentices wire them up incorrectly over and over, then teach them the proper way to identify where to connect the wires.

Your picture states "...switch red & blk leads"

Just relying on the color of the screw isn't going to work necessarily...not for a noobie. The old adage "black to brass" doesn't make sense when your apprentices and even journeymen hold up a motor with blue or red wires. If the motor you indicate needs reverse (relative) rotation, then black to brass doesn't work.

If they don't know it, teach it...if they can't be taught, hire someone who can.

I inserted the OPs picture that he linked.

I trust the OP from seeing his other posts, that this is not a task that will result in a safety issue. The biggest safety issue is not the 120V electric, but the lack of a belt cover on the V-belt. I never worried about this myself, as I was using it for cooling me, and had no children running about.

If you were an instructor to electrician apprentices, that may be a good thing to eFF with them, but the OP will use materials that are manufactured correctly. I expect he can trust the green, silver and brass screw indications.

For the OP Just doing this simple task of making up and connecting a cord to the motor will improve the understanding of basic termination.

Split windings really only mean start and run windings controlled by a centrifugal switch mechanism on the rotor. If you look closely inside you will see which terminal goes to the switch and only need to make sure the active or "hot" as you guys call it is connected to the switch. Neutral will be the other terminal with the earth connected to the motor body. Pretty simple really and if you get it wrong it's generally not a major issue but you'll know something isn't quite right so can reverse the connections without letting the smoke out generally. If in doubt connect it up and try it worst you can do is pop a circuit breaker.

Jack,

I have two Fans made this way, one I built 15 years ago and put hardware cloth (wire screen) with 1/2"x1/2" holes over all openings. Made legs to hold the fan high enough to blow through the grill on race cars. This one works great.

The second one my son brought home and he tried to wire it just like the one I made, it ran very slow. He ask that I come and wire it up. I ask if he had looked at the wiring diagram on the motor and he had not. That was his problem, this one looked just like the first but it was made for 220 volts.

Look on the capacitor connected to the motor and it will have the wiring diagram if there isn't one on the motor.

Don't forget the protection on all openings.