Connecting a Hooter with Output Contact of an Ammeter

Wire your hooter to the LED fault circuit. You'll need a relay as LEDs are low power.

If fault LED indication is showing up, it means internal relay of ammeter operates after current limit is exceeded but then why same relay is not sounding a hooter which is connected to its normally open contact?

Depends how it's wired.

This might help....

http://www.eeweb.com/company-news/murata_power_solutions/user-settable-over-current-alarm-ammeters/

And should be inspected often....

You JUST had to, didn't you.

You just couldn't keep it on topic could you? At least it's above the waist, sorta.

Tornado has a point. There is nothing to stimulate the hooter to hoot.

Just trying to make a connection between owls and ammeters. Tenuous at best, I realise, but I'm very sure that alligator clips are out of the question?

Well, at least for most.

Clothes pins, maybe.

Yes i believe so, i guess i should give supply to contacts...
I had the following connections

Should it not be like this?

(240V line 1)---(NO ammeter contact)---(hooter)---(Neutral line2)

Yes. I was forgetting that your power system is 240V to earth.

Big hooters and the sound carries farther and so, in the interest of good neighbourly relations perhaps a pair of tweeters might be more appropos? They do age a bit more gracefully I hear - the pitch doesn't drop so much over time - but it's more a matter of personal taste, really.

Welcome to CR4. You have unfortunately stumbled into some American slang in which hooters = breasts. The device in question is also known as a klaxon, horn, bell, buzzer, or even siren, depending on its particular sound.

Are you quite sure about that meaning? Why, I've never heard it used that way before. Who would've thought!

You just need to experience the right fast-food outlets. Cultural deprivation is such a tragedy....

Tornado is correct.

We have fun with language sometimes.

A schematic would allow the forum to help you.

You just need something that closes a contact below a certain current setting.

A NO contact that is energized above a certain current value will do it. Once the current drops below a preset level, the NO contact will close and blow the hooter, if the closed circuit is supplied proper power.

Wouldn't that be an NC contact? Doesn't the N refer to the contacts' configuation in the relay's unpowered state?

No. You are correct. NO is un-powered state

.I said, " A NO contact that is energized above a certain current value."

Open until it gets power from the alarm circuit.

So, are you saying that there are *degrees* of NC then? As in "Hello. Do you carry relays in Mostly NC? You don't? How's about in Almost NO? You do? Great! I'll take three, thank you, with the Not Quite Single Pole, Nearly One and a Half Throw contacts? Oh and that carton of hootage over there. Yes, that one. No, make that two - I'll need one for backup. You know, over the holidays? No, make it four; they make great gifts! Hey, thanks!"

No, I'm saying that the contact is dead, (NO) until it gets power from the alarm circuit, when it closes. Then the hooter blows.

At least that's what I meant to say.

Electricity is not my first language.

I knew what you were saying all along. I'm just yanking your chain. If I don't do it, who will?

Check the switch/jumper/program settings. Most often a device like your panel meter will have to be st up correctly to energize the relay. The manufacturer has probably left that set up to the end user, so that it can be used for an indication of no current/low current/high current.