Car starting problem

Take the car back to the mechanic. I guess you have starting problems after you drive and shut down the car and it then does not start. Check the radiator fan as if the fan is not running too hot water will not start the car. I had the same problem and I will open the radiator cap and wait for it to cool down and then it will start. I will take to the mechanic and in the eveing he will tell me that there is no problem it starts first time. One day I took the car back to him and said , start it now. He tried and will not start and then he figured out that the fan was not working and he change the swith and never had any problem again. The kind of problem of noise when you take to the mechanic and drive around with him, no noise. Just like doctors (I call them body mechanics) when you go there no symptoms and every thing is Ok and they are great liars because if every thing is Ok why I am still hurting and what I am doing here with you?

Good Luck.

Nadeem Butt

07062007

Hi Nadeem ,

No , it is not behaving like what you said. Even if I start after 24 hours , first time it never starts , starts only after a few tries. Think it is the problem of air / fuel mix ratio that's why when I pull the choke and start , it starts . I don't understand ....with new battery why it wouldn't start , a mystery ..Car totally serviced very recently .

Thanks

Voltamps

Don't assume that just because you car was just serviced that every thing is alright with what the mechanic did. Sounds like an older vehicle in that you have a manual choke so it could be due to carburetor adjustment, timing, plug gap, etc.

Get an itemized list of what was done and it might be easier to diagnose the problem.

Gotta agree with the "sounds like an older model" post... Too little info provided. Every model of car ever built exhibits its own characteristic foibles (some right-off the showroom floor, others with age). Are we talking an air-cooled engine, old flat-head 6-cylinder, V8 monster, or what? There are forums better suited to this line of questioning/guessing, e.g.:

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/

Or better yet, tune-into Click & Clack (the "Car Talk" radio show hosts). They really do know a thing or two! (actually, I haven't heard them in awhile... maybe a year or so. Anyone know if they're still broadcasting anywhere?)

I used to run a repair shop and I would get calls on a daily basis where the customer would say, "My bike wont start. If I brought it to you this morning, could you have it out by three this after noon?"

Some days it was hard not to just hang up the phone.

Darn tootin' Car Talk is still on. I think the puzzler is still on vacation though.

Go to cars.com to find 'em in your area.

-A-

dear sir .

I think this is important

I took my car in for servicing once many years ago. Shortly after I got it back it started running very rough. I took it back and was told it needed some fix for $400. Sorry I don't remember the details. I took it to another shop and after 5 minutes they said there was a loose wire in the system. They fixed it, no charge. I'm convinced the first place loosened up the wire so I would bring it back for this $400 repair of something they deliberately cause to generate revenues.

Check the vacuum lines for your distributor advance. This ignition advance must work on older cars for starting. A vacuum leak will also cause the car to run roughly.

I think the computer does this in newer cars without the traditional distributor.

A choke equiped car must be an oldie and if I am right your problem lies on the solenoid valve which closes the fuel supply in order to avoid gas to ignite expontaneously when you turn off the engine, this one is located in one side of the caburator.

Three things can be happening.

The first one is: no electricity is arriving to the solenoid valve´s coil so it keeps closed.

The second one is: valve´s coil is burnt.

The third one is: the gas passing hole in the valve seat is closed due to some strange particle.

In all cases symptomes are the engine won´t start unless you force gas to get into the intake manifol using the choke as you have been doing.

Good Luck.

Oh, yes. The carburetor! The engine is supposed to start when the choke is pulled! Now if there is hesitation or no throttle response and the engine dies out after the choke is opened, then it could be the accelerator pump in the carb not functioning at 100%. If the engine is warmed up and the choke is needed for restart, then it is the accelerator.

To check this, when the engine is cold, and not started, remove the air filter so you can look down the horn of the carberator and activate the throttle to notice a strong strean of fuel squirt out of the primaries. If it is a weak or sputtering stream than this is your problem, it becomes even worse when the engine is hot.

An odd one happened to me a few years ago sounds the same. The carb gasket needed replacing. If the mec has had the carb off or given it a good bump could be that. Good Luck.