Last Question About Adapters....

You are a very handsome man. And, quite intelligent too, I might add.

What do you mean by "adapter"? Charger?

Cell phones are smarter than we are. But, they have their limits.

I hope I've sucked up enough. If not, let me know, I can pile it on if need be.

Leonardo says: thank you. However, consider myself Jerry MacGuire. SHOW ME THE MONEYYYYYY. I would be willing to pay 80-120$ Over skype for the current circuit board I am thinking of. Of course, I would need to verify first both were U.S Citizens (sorry...It's just that international business is still out of my league...) and would need both participants to have a recorded skype chat in which we both show id's and state our full name and state the agreement. Then I would need to get a proprietory rights agreement from both parties.... after that I would be willing to offer someone 80-120 dollars (as specified) upon completion of a working circuit board. I would then be willing to pay someone in 30 dollar increments as they show me piece by piece what parts they would use and their ideas (my current knowledge of circuitry is enough that I believe I could at least double check....) as long as the pre-said skype agreement said all money should be forfeited back should party B be unable to complete the agreement. I would also be willing to pay party B 9% of all sales outside of a 150 mile radius. In other words: if this idea takes off, so should you. I dunno, I consider this fair. And at the very least, it would be an interesting note on anyone's resumee to design a board for an actual company. Am just putting this out there. If anyone's interested, let me know. If not: is all cool, and at least let me post and learn.

God bless, everyone.

P.S: any thoughts on the original question?

I also promise not to step on anyone else's research. After a written proprietory agreement has been signed, I would explain my input/output specifications, and leave it up to the individual whether or not they think they coud perform the duty, etc. etc....
Just an idea, yo. If no one is interested, no need to make a huge deal out of it. Just an opportunity. Reply or ignore as you see fit. And thank you CR4 for all the vauable input you've given.

The question is, actually, why one would sell a design for $120US when clearly there is perceived to be a lot more to be earned by bringing it to market <rhetorical question - NNTR>?

Most CR4 posts stumble when money is discussed.

What you are after is a selfadjusting power supply for various Volatage and Amperage conditions.

If you want to make it consider this as a challenge and part with the 150 bucks via Skype because I made you do it.

Just think how you would tell your "adapter" to churn out only 5V instead of 10V so you do not fry the device on the other end. I grant you that your board could detect the device on the other end (mostly everything is charged via USB or similar) but to push out the correct Voltage and Amperes is a different story where you need a transformer of some sort.

But BTW did you notice that everyhing charged via USB has already a "standard" voltage, which makes regulating the current the only task of the device.

Voila, already there!

Its not the cell phone its the charger that regulates it!

Make it 180 bucks just in case!

I'm trying to get a handle on what you actually mean here.

Do you intend

1. To have your circuit board outputting 10v and then feeding that to a commercial phone charger? or

2. To have the commercial phone charger feeding your circuit board? or

3. Alter the commercial phone charger to output 10v?

If #1 is the intention then, if a commercial adaptor/power supply is designed for a minimum input voltage of 100v, it is highly unlikely to work correctly with an input voltage that is considerably lower than that.

The reason being that most of these power supplies use flyback topology for mains isolation and to reduce the voltage to a usable level, and then a Zener/shunt regulator diode to regulate the output to the desired value (5v in your case). For a regulator diode (or other voltage regulator) to correctly regulate the voltage, the input (from the flyback circuit) must always be higher than the breakdown voltage of the diode.

If a lower than specified input is provided, then it is likely that too much voltage will be dropped across the flyback circuit for the regulator to be able to operate within its parameters.

In your example, with an input of just 10v, a couple of volts will be dropped across the bridge rectifier and a few more in the inductor and other parts of the flyback circuit. There will be insufficient voltage passed to the regulator section to ensure reliable operation.

As for the AC/DC bit. These commercial power supplies are designed for AC, they will not work on DC. You would need to add a multivibrator/astable flipflop circuit to the output of your device (discounting the aforementioned problems) before the commercial one would even consider working from it.

If #2 is the intention, I fail to see why you would do it, you could purchase a 10v power supply ready made or if you're desperate, connect 2 x 5v ones in series.

If #3 is the intention, you could conceivably alter the existing unit, but it would involve significant replacement of components and circuitry and could hardly be considered to be a worthwhile task.

I dont know why you would want to pay $120 for a power supply circuit board that can be found on eBay for around $5 - $10 in mass quantities.

Also you wording is very strange so I have to suspect that American english is a second or third language?

I would rather buy this at my neighborhood retailer (tasty cassava snack but the name is a little bit off- our folks use to call it that way, weird)

Was the 10 volts a "typo" error in your post?

Reason: If you are going to be using the 100-240AC adapter and plugging it into your black box the black box must output a minimum of 100VAC in order for the cell phone charger to operate correctly.

As you might suspect, there are several answers to your questions. As others have suggested, your specifications are a little bit vague but I'll give it a shot because I'm just another idiot.

The input of the typical adapter (also known as a power supply) can have a transformer with a switch for use on various supply voltages. One position is for 110 VAC nominal with a tolerance band of at least 15 volts. The other position is for 220 with a tolerance of about 30 volts. All the switch does is to place the primary coils (2) in series or parallel so as to not exceed the capacity of the little transformer. Plugging that in at the wrong setting will burn it out on the input side.

The output depends on the VA capacity of the device. V = volts, A = amps.

The secondary coil of the little transformer will produce a voltage proportional to the windings ratio of the device. So, a 10:1 winding ratio will produce about 12 VAC plus or minus the same tolerance on the input side. I suppose that you have no intention to make any changes to the transformer. Another consideration is that you can't get any more power out than it is capable of providing. If you VA is 120*0.1 or about 12 watts, you can only expect up to about 12 watts on the output side.

In your question, "Could I specify the output voltage 10 volts and 2 amps?" which would be a VA of about 20 watts (10*2), the answer is simply NO. The size of the transformer core and the wire chosen to make it are the limiting factors.

I hope that helps.

just use this

You can't "pull" power from any device beyond its capabilities, and certainly not more than what you feed into it; the day you get 0.00000000000000001+ watts from whatever contraption, you'll become zillionaire; not bad for a $120.00 investment uh?.

"If you are nice/good to me...expect commercial advantages/opportunities to come your way."

Do you also need some advice about bullet proof paint?

I'm, glad that was the last question, the forum appears to be tiring quickly.as I have

Oh ! you finally said it; we were all thinking the same but were to shy, and that part of the horse... oh boy, you gave me a very good laugh this morning heh heh heh.

Thanks, but not too many, I'm with stomach ache.

Alright, I deserved that. I have to admit I got extremely drunk last night, and it seemed like a great idea at the time. Then when I woke up, I realize how douche-like it all sounded and how unwise conducting any sort of business over skype would be.
Please ignore my initial post, and if at all possible delete this thread of douchey-ness. I'll admit it: it came off as extremely juvenile, and the amount I was willing to offer is extremely condescending to someone who's taken the time to really master the skills you all have. It shows how "green" I am not only about learning electricity, but about the design rates.
Would still like to thank all of you in the forum for what you all have taught me, and I apologise for drunk posting. Hope it was good for a laugh at least.

Were you drunk with the Diet coke dude?

I enjoyed the laugh. I have also drunk blogged here, too. (No, I will not tell where but they're still on CR4. You can forget about this thread being deleted.)

As I said, I'm still willing to teach electrical engineering fundamentals to anyone, particularly anyone with enough humility to match my patience.

Welcome to CR4!

Seriously?

Bad idea.

An over voltage (10V instead of 5Vdc) charging than what was specified will result to the picture attached. Although a slight over voltage(may be 10% on nominal) is tolerable for fast charging.

Reflect on this analogy, Voltage are like pressure on pipes, Current is the water flow rate and the battery is like a empty close tank (with designed Pressure or voltage 5 volts) with supply gate. Initially (uncharged), when the gate is closed water pressure(10 Volts) is on the gate. Gate is open as intended, water flows or rushes to the tank filling it twice as fast as designed pressure(@5 Volts) the only problem is by the time the tank was completely full with water(charge) suddenly the water or charge pressure tear down the walls that it can not withstand and KABOOOOMMM!!! or FUFFTHH!!! SMOKIN!!! End of the story of the handsome guy.

This thread is stupid. Please ignore my drunken rant.

Looks like your drink adapter is broken. Have it fixed.

If it works correctly you would get zapped at 10 V instead of only 5V of your normal dosage when trying to handle communication in a drunk state.