My 2003 Chevy Cavalier ls 2.2 Eco Tech

Cavaliers are the WORST vehicle ever inflicted on the motoring public.

Look on the internet for Cavalier forums. We come up only because of the master's relationship with the automotive publication Hemmings Motor News. Should be maybe Lemming's Motor News.

At one time or another every part on the car has failed and if there are any left that have not, you may have discovered one of the fifteen parts that have not failed YET!

Good luck.

Get your money back.

I just replaced an ignition control module on a 2001 Buick with a 2.2l engine with the same problem. The module over-heats and shuts down. After it cools off the car starts back up until it over heats again, then the process starts all over again.

Replace the Ignition control module and sell the car while your money head.

They claim "Eco Tech" because the car gets great gas mileage when it's not running

When you say 'nothing', do you mean the starter doesn't attempt to turn the engine over or that the engine turns over but makes no effort to start? A little better description of the car's behavior would be helpful.

If you mean the starter doen't attempt to turn the engine over, you are looking for an open electrical connection.

On the other hand, if you mean the engine turns over but doesn't attempt to start, let's use the old lawn mower adage (after all, many on here think you have less than a lawn mower). That is: FUEL or FIRE, in other words, fuel supply or ignition. (it could be other things, valve or ignition timing in particular, but since it starts when cold, this is less likely. Could also be bad compression from worn rings, etc.). You can check for FIRE by removing a spark plug, reconnecting the plug wire, place the plug where the shell is grounded and observe it while someone tries to start the car. If a healthy spark is seen, you have ignition, so the problem must be fuel. You can confirm this by pouring a small amount (maybe 2 tablespoons) of fuel in the intake manifold and trying to start it (after replacing the spark plugs and wires). If it tries to start or runs for a few seconds, you have a FUEL problem. You should also look at the spark plugs when you remove them to see if they are fuel or oil fouled or dry.

To check the fuel system, first install a pressure test gauge on the fuel injector rail (as someone else has suggested) and observe the fuel pressure while attempting to start the car. If the pressure is low, you'll need to find the source (fuel pump, electrical, ???). If the pressure is ok, then you most likely have an electrical problem, either power supply or signal to the injector system or a problem in the injection system itself.

Out of curiosity, your effort seems to have been directed at electrical items. Any reason why?

I could not find any reason for you, or your post!

The OP has bigger problems than their grammar. If you don't have anything constructive to add .... Your not worth the time and effort, being an Anon

I am almost at the point where I would seriously ask Admin to ban anymore Chevy Cavalier problems on CR4.

Surely we have seen enough and anyone silly enough to actually buy one is simply being too cheap....a tiny bit of research would stop most people dead in their tracks from investing even $1 in purchasing one.....Its certainly cured me!!

It must be true to say that other than almost any communist country built cars, before or after the collapse of communism, the Cavalier is probably the worst car ever built.

It might be interesting to have a list of names of other cars that approach the Cavalier in terms of problems, a useful further warning to members of CR4.....

Thanks for your understanding in this matter.

If I understand correctly, the car does start but then the engine cuts out immediately. If that is the case it could be the same as my Diahatzu.

Auto electricians can not fine the fault !

If this happens, I remove the negative [earth] cable from the battery, light my pipe and smoke it a bit and when I replace the cable, the little Terios is perfect again. It sometimes takes months before this happens again.

Someone said that the cars computer reset itself when you disconnect the battery.

Done this to a Renault that would start but would not rev up and it worked !

In the long list of suggestions, one more comes to mind and that is the possibility of starter heat soak. I don't know where the starter is located relative to the exhaust in a Cavalier but if it is very close, it can cause the problem that is described. The conventional remedy is a heat shield around the starter.

Most likely the worse Chevy EVER.

I suggest donating the carcass to Fermi Lab, so they can place it in their Atom Smasher for experimentation. Maybe you can write off the loss in your taxes as a donation to science? LOL

Just a thought...

It is important that you tell us why you have to make 4 try's to start it if it started the first time. does it stall every time after starting then it start again and stall, then 3rd time start again and stall. How long does it run between attempt's. Does it sputter and ref up or not. Do you drive off and then it dies on you or what is the sequence?

Sounds like you may have bought someone's "Lemon'. I honestly feel 'bad' for you.

I also bought a Cavalier 'New' in 2003 ... and her Odometer just recently turned over 225,000 miles :)

I honestly believe regular maintenance (i.e., oil/fluid changes & addressing each 'minor' electrical issue as they come up) is a key to long vehicle-life. Last fall, she was 'missing' real bad .... turned out that two (2) spark-plugs had their main terminals completely "burned-away" ... go figure ?!?

Unfortunately, the harsh winter here has started some minor-areas of body rusting ... but I hope to address those this spring (as cheaply as possible). I plan on getting a new vehicle next year .... i.e., and give my Cavalier to my GF's niece.

"101 ways to have your girl friend dump you" (+) 1 Cavalier to GF niece = "102 ways to have your GF dump you" Another man lucky enough to dodge the nose ring piercing! And He gets off Cheap $$

Hello And thanks so some people that has problems may not want to hear from some people on here Didn't your parents every teach you If you have nothing nice to say then say Nothing at all ok Well I got the car fixed I was told I need a new Computer and for now I just bypassed it will send to junk yard and they can sort out the good and bad of it as soon as I can other than That This car is a great little car people say to much bad about them it just when there broke down we are pissed I have seen worse cars then Cavaliers To I need your help again Fix your lips before you trip

Read reply 14 again and reconsider your comments. I think you owe him an apology, he actually brag about his 250 000 mile Cavalier and commented on your buy that can be a lemon.

Computer can be used on a few parts of an automobile these days. But on your 2003 Cavalier, there should only be two, and perhaps three. The Engine Control Module, which receives signals from the throttle position sensor, crankshaft sensor, gear position sensor, brake pedal sensor, and other assorted sensors around the car, and sends signals out to the fuel injectors at the correct time for the engine to run and also tell the ignition system when to fire the spark plugs. This ECM is the expensive "computer". But there is no way to bypass this.

The other "computer" is the ignition control module. It is a replacement for the points and condenser that used to cause the spark to the spark plugs before electronic ignition systems. This is also hard to bypass. (bypass, not replace). The third "computer" that your car might have is the key chip reading system that recognizes the resister installed in your ignition key. This makes it harder for car thieves to pick the lock on your car. THIS computer is relatively easy to bypass when it fails.

But, here is the catch. If it is the "key chip reader" system that has been bypassed, the repair is done. If that is all that was wrong with your car, it is fixed. Do you need to junk the car? You implied that you did not dislike the car, so now that it is running again, why not drive the car to retrieve your spent money??????

Again, a little more information would help here. You mentioned the clutch safety switch, so I will start there. On that switch are two purple wires. You need to test each of these wires when trying to start. If only one is live, the switch is not sending power to the starter. If both of them are live, the starter is being sent a signal, but not working. ( This could be a bad starter solenoid, or a bad connection between the starter and that switch terminal.) If neither of them are live, there is no power being sent from the ignition switch to that clutch switch. (That could be the ignition switch itself, an adjustment of that ignition switch, or a power supply going to the ignition switch. There are two separate power supplies feeding the ignition switch. Two separate fusible links feed the ignition switch on almost all GM vehicles.

If the Clutch is not getting both wires live when trying to start the vehicle, you could test the system by sending 12 volts to each of the terminals on the clutch switch. Be sure the transmission is in neutral, and the key is on. This should start your starter motor spinning if the solenoid and starter are good. Good luck, and let us know how the testing goes.