To Replace Capacitor or Not

Since it has been altered there is no way to know from this distance....If you can find a wiring diagram for the original design, then check to see what has been altered...What the capacitor was feeding, and if it still requires the capacitor, or was it removed from the circuit because of an upgrade or alteration in the setup....When you say it's dead, you mean it's shorted? How are you testing it? In any case find the model # and search for the info....

Well I think the welder is likely to draw higher amperage under load, as the power factor correction is percentage based...So you can reduce power usage with the capacitor...however I wouldn't get it from Miller but from Grainger or some aftermarket source, it should be much cheaper....

I agree, or better still check Ebay for one. A lot of heavy duty motors etc use those caps.

Good advice. And,,, I kind of think that replacing the capacitor, if you can find one, will be rather expensive. I had a few MIG machines needing capacitor banks, and the cost (from the manufacturer) to replace the bank of 4 capacitors was about $150.00 less than buying a new machine. I might have been able to find an alternate source of supply at a cheaper price elsewhere, but I scavanged other older machines I was saving for parts. Even though the manufacturer said they would not work, they did.

Haven't you answered your own question?

"the welder works ok."

I think tcmtech got it right, this time.

It works so where is the problem?

Salvage the old bugga and use it as one more prop on your workshop "trophy" collection shelf.

Well thanks alot guys. i will leave it as it is. atleast i gain some knowledge from the big boss.

It was there for a reason when it was built. Probably to use the energy in the cap to keep from pulling so hard on the line. It might make the welder draw less on peaks and cause the lights in the house to flicker less when using it. That also would make it a bit less expensive to use in the long run.

I was told that many years ago, under the Rural Electrification Act (REA) that the power companies liked to sell you a welder that they had approved because it had such surge-protection as the capacitor built-in in order to keep your neighbors from complaining of the flickering lights and varying line voltages. Traditionally also those welders were only 180 amp units, not the 225 amp units that are fairly standard today for the same reason.

I have a couple of old Fourney welders which also have a capacitor across the input power for the same reason. The one in your welder probably dried-up. I'll bet if you remove it and shake it, it will rattle, indicating it is no good.

Here is the circuit diagram for the welder. I believe one of you guys ask for it.

It says that power factor correction was optional, and the lines are dashed on the drawing so I figure this is one option you don't have anymore.

Dear Romeo, U should connect same capacity capacitor with this welder because this will reduce the temperature of your welder and will increase its insulation life. Without capacitor welder will generate more heat which is not good for any winding as well as insulation. we can use it without capacitor but we should work in safe side to safe money and breakdown of machine.....