Are New Spray Paint Formulas Too Thick?

Contact the manufacturer and request some new nozzles or return the cans to where you purchased them for a replacement.

They should honor a return if you have several cans that are plugged.

While cleaning nozzle, it IS supposed to continue spraying for a few seconds, until the little tube inside, that touches can bottom, is empty. That is a significant amount of paint, plus the can MUST be exactly upside down while doing it. Now for the clogged nozzles, you can try paint stripper. It will work, but needs some time to penetrate, so put the nozzle in a plastic bag that can survive stripper and slow its evaporation and leave them alone for a few minutes, then clean it mechanically, with a needle, a "toothpick" or compressed air. But if you will not make a habit out of cleaning nozzles, this can become impractical and as expensive as new spray cans. S.M.

Essentially, the brush saver I tried is paint stripper - it has methylene chloride in it and it won't touch loosen the paint, and when mixed with the MEK, it is paint stripper. (I have soaked the nozzles in this for 24 hours)

I tried to get a wire through, but the passageway seems to be a bit more complex than a simple 90 degree. (this is those new huge sized nozzles - not the traditional ones - I've managed to get a wire through one of those before)

If you were to spray these things upside down until the paint stops, I think you'd nearly drain the can. Never saw ones that would not quit spraying paint before when inverted.

Buy some: Replacement Spray Tips (4 Pack): Home Improvement

Or try: Unclogging Spray Paint Nozzles | Painting & Finishing Tools ...

I like the idea of spraying a "WD-40" type product through the nozzle, but these things are those new super large nozzles - not the traditional top - probably won't even go onto the other can. If they did, I have noticed before when trying to switch nozzles that the passageway is sized to the paint formulation. I've gotten huge discharges or nil discharges before. Then there is the size of the bottom entry versus the tube in the can. If not correct, you get a discharge from the base of the nozzle all over your hands as well as out the proper hole.

When painting - switching the nozzles to a different style usually means a horrible failure.

Just got back from popping the top on a few cans at the local Ace.

Liquitex Professional S... makes nozzles like those in various orifice sizes. (click to see pix)
$4.17
I used to just blow them out with my air hose after soaking.

"I've gotten huge discharges or nil discharges before. Then there is the size of the bottom entry versus the tube in the can. If not correct, you get a discharge from the base of the nozzle all over your hands as well as out of the proper hole."

Yeah, I hear you, brother; I have suffered from the same problems.

Some spray paints are made to work inverted in which case the spray till clear nozzle method does not work....most paints now are water soluble...and hot water can increase the pressure to assist in clearing a tip....so I would try soaking the can in hot water and when finished some electrical tape around the tip to keep it from drying out....

http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html

I'll try the water thing and see if the paint softens. I'll also heat the can a bit to increase pressure and see what happens. I know from experience that these new paints are not to be sprayed at less than 60 degrees F, or the stuff is so thick, it builds a drop up on the nozzle that will eventually end up as a blob on what you are painting. I always heat the can in water when it is that cool.

My other complaint with this paint, is it takes a week to truly set up on a painted surface. It can be handled, but has a tacky feel until fully set.

Can't understand how the nozzle can clog so fast when the paint dries so slowly.

You've confirmed my thought that the cans will spray inverted.

You could try storing the cans inverted in a solution that would prevent or soften the clog.

One thing not to do: line up the cans single file one behind the other, on old newspaper, light the paper, and put one 22 round through them all. Do not do this...

Yeah - I like that idea. It will take a fairly large container of solvent that will foul the air in my garage a bit, but I've had worse situations.

Heck - you don't need the 22 round. When I was in the "oil patch", sometimes I'd be asked to perforate the casing in wells I had instrument analyzed. We used Prima cord/blasting caps, and a formed shot that we hung on carriers and strung the capped Prima cord across. So - to keep it short - we often had explosives on board the service truck, and left over scraps of Prima cord was common. The old guy hired to do janitorial duties at the shop pranked every new engineer to come through his shop. He'd burn the waste he accumulated every day in a burning pit by the parking lot. He'd wait for the new guy to get out of his car after a perforating job, and then he'd throw a couple full cans of spray paint into his fire and run. I tried to dive under the car when it was my turn.

Yes sir, a full can of starting fluid tossed into a flaming brush pile whilst the pile maker is facing the other way leaning on his rake will cause: a miniature mushroom cloud, completely extinguishing the fire and the loosening of the makers grip on his rake.

Sprayed some buildings last night, and when done, I put some brush saver solution in the cap and set the can upside down into the cap. Should work, if the brush saver solution doesn't soften the cap plastic.

I'm curious about this paint. Can you give us a name of the stuff?

Did not want to smear a previously good name in paint.

It is Rustoleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2X. I use the satin finish exclusively.

Part of the problem, I know, is I use only a small amount at a time. I am painting scale models of buildings. The stuff would probably do much better if I were painting full sized buildings and spraying until the can was nearly empty.

I just checked the MSDS and this seems to be basic petroleum solvent paint - not some new water based formulation.

If using small amounts, maybe get a modelers' HVAC system, --Much more controllable, but maybe more convenient--I have a friend that uses one for model railroads , and model ships…You can mix what you need, or what you need, and in the amount you need..Just a thought

I don't understand "maybe get a modelers' HVAC system," HVAC means heating ventilating air conditioning to me. I'm not a modeler but I do throw away a lot of half used cans of spray paint.

Yeah - me too on the HVAC. I assumed that was an acronym for a paint brush and small air compressor, of which I have 3 and 2 respectively. I guess I have the same problem with the small model shop spray cans as well, but those nozzles are both cleanable and replaceable. It is a pain to do, but it can be done. This new paint I'm complaining about has those big caps (very broad base diameter) that I've not figured out how to clean.

Got three air brushes and two compressors. I was a semi professional model painter in the 1980's. Did a quite a few model trains for others, at a good profit. But, when doing buildings that are 10" high by 36" long or roadways that are 6' long by 3.5" wide, it is a pain in the ___ to mess with the little bottles of paint and adding thinner. Plus, have you ever checked out the cost of those 2.5 ounce bottles of model paint? Just about the same as a 16 ounce spray can. Add to that the only good line of paints has been discontinued by the cheap crap paint giant that bought them. Another case of buying the competitor to eliminate it.

Fine details - air brush. Large areas - spray can - thank you.

Did you mean HVLP?

High Volume Low Pressure?

Correction noted and appreciated.. I have had heating and air on the brain , working with a neighbor who is finally coming out of both (the heat and the cold), and putting in a new system.

No worries. I get acronym brain all too often now too. It seems like everything is shortened, just like today's youths attention span!

I keep a couple of jars of assorted spray can jets permanently soaking in Touol , When the problem arises I fish a few out usually by the third try the spray can behaves.

Just dump the bad ones back in soak for the next time.

I have sometimes done the same, using lacquer thinner, instead. Evaporates faster, tho', so one needs to control the way to keep a lid on it.

For many years my dad used a glass baby food jar filled with a solvent to clean all the spray can tips.

Hi correction Touol should be Toluol or I guess Toluene in USA it has a lower evaporation rate than thinners.

Don't worry about besmirtching a good name. Rustoleum are probably not responsible for the can and they would most likely welcome the feedback. It wouldn't be the first time a can manufacturer has omitted the eductor tube or fitted poor seals around the nozzle stem. The manufacturer i had an association with recalled all stock and back charged the can maker.

As for cleaning the nozzle, NFI. You have done all that i would do. It seems that the new nozzle has a tortuous path that doesn't allow for cleaning. Again the feedback would probably be welcomed.

Jim

Oh yeah - they got a nasty email from me on this subject. Next, then get a box of plugged nozzles back. All the local vendors have that product on half price sale right now. Guess that should tell me something.

I take it all back. They deserve a good caning!

Maybe an ultrasonic bath with a non-flammable solvent if you are removing the nozzles?

Update to the clogging issue. I just heard back from the manufacturer, and they admit that the internal tube can clog, and no amount of cleaning of the nozzle will help. I suspect the caps soaked in brush saver are in fact open, and the problem is in the internal plumbing. Since the internal clog is not repairable, the manufacturer has agreed to refund me if I send in the batch number so they can investigate the problem. Enough said on this issue. Rustoleum is a fine company with a very typical new product problem that becomes apparent after all testing and release of the product to the consumer. I believe that is the Third Law of Engineering, isn't it?

Phys,

Thank you for following up with Rustoleum and us here at the forum, waiting here with baited breath to hear what the resolution is / was!