Another Whatizit

Can you get one of these in the correct size to work for you?

http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/fenner-drives/keyless-locking-devices/11744-180374.html

You may need to enlarge the bore in the pulley to get one to fit.

Wedge lock?

MAybe find something here that will work for you.

http://www.sdp-si.com/estore/coverpg/Shafts.htm

did you try Mcmaster

They have items that look similar, you may even be able to substitute it.

http://www.bcfurnaceparts.com/products/8%22-BLOWER-PULLEY-8%22-X-3%7B47%7D4%22.html

You could find one in the bush, in the Bahamas on a washmasjien.

Thanks to everyone for their valuable advice and time.

After much deliberating,I have decided my best course of action is a 2piece clamping

collar on each side of the pulley.

That way,I can keep it original as far as possible,and will allow me to compensate for

wear on the motor shaft without a complete rebuild of the shaft,which would involve

disassembly of the motor,build up shaft with weld,then turn down on a lathe to

original dimensions.

If not for the motor shaft wear,a new pulley would be best.

Like all things in nature,I am taking the path of least resistance.

Thanks Again!

That looks like an easy job for a machine shop. They can make a new nut / adapter for you.

If the motor shaft is worn, take the motor to a motor repair shop. They can sleeve the shaft and return it to the correct diameter.

Easy yes,but cheap?NO!

If I had a lathe, and broaching tools,I could do it myself.

I could fix the motor shaft,and bore and make the bushing for the pulley.

You can't sleeve the motor shaft,it has a 1/4" keyway.

It must be built up with weld and turned back down to original size.

Yes,the pulley could be bushed to original size,and a key cut into the bushing.There is enough metal in the pulley to do this without compromising the strength too much.

I have seen it done many times,and done a few myself.

I am after an effective low cost solution,which I believe I have found with the split-clamping collars.

Thanks for the feedback anyway.

I am spoiled - I have the lathe, milling machine, and welders in my shop.

Cheap and keeping original is usually not said in the same sentence!

If the shaft is worn it probably is no longer true, so things are going to wobble and probably fail prematurely again.

The shaft is only .025" out of round,and can be trued up with a file and dial indicator.

The clamps will allow me enough space to get everything concentric again.

I will use a dial indicator and get everything right.

Then I will tack-weld the collar to the pulley,just one half of the collar.

I will do this for both sides of the pulley.

The other half of the collar has to be free to tighten on the shaft.

Once it is tightened, the collars will be anchored with a taper bore pin on both

unwelded halves.

This will allow disassembly at a later time if needed.

This is not the way I would do it if I had the $$ or tools to do it properly,but it will

have to do for now.

This leaves me the option to do it later when finances allow if I find it nescessary.

I don't intend on using the planer on a daily basis,so it may last a long time.

Wish I had your equipment!

There is quite a community of hobby machinists you may be able to tap into.

Also, your local high school / technical school may do it "for free" just for the challenge.

try these folks,

http://www.intrinsicdevices.com/unilok_applications.html#Shaft_Clamps

Would you be interested in having a machinist remaking a copy of the original?

If that is kind offer to do it, it is sincelry appreciated,however,I had already ordered the split-collar clamps when I received your email.

I welded one half of the split collar to the bushing,after precisely centering it,one on each side of the bushing.

The other half of each collar was attached to the welded side with allen-head screws.

http://www.ruland.com/ps_collars_shaft_sp.asp

The runout was minimal at .002",and the collars clamp very tightly,and allowed me to rotate them on the motor shaft to find the least amount of runout before tightening them,in effect,using offset runouts of the motor shaft and clamps to cancel each other.

It seems to be an economical and effective method.

A big thank you to everyone that contributed to solving this problem.

Some of the links and advice led me eventually to the chosen solution,which would not have occured to me otherwise.

this looks like what you need...http://www.sdp-si.com/shaftloc/