3rd Floor Water Pressure

No, the flow might increase but not the pressure.

John

While I agree static pressure won't increase, dynamic pressure should increase.

Will an increase in dynamic pressure increase the flow through a large shower head? The flow currently simulates a gentle rain while a more stinging flow is preferred. Any way to make this happen w/o running larger diameter feeds? There is no flow restrictor in the valve or head. Thank you.

Running parallel feeds from the manifold to the shower head should give you an increase in dynamic pressure at the shower head, which would increase flow from the nozzle (shower head).

Can't run parallel feeds to the shower head but can wye from existing lead to a second port on the manifold but that won't help, will it?

Adding an additional line should increase the flow...but why not just replace the existing line? If the water pressure varies between the sink or other fixtures at this same level then the line may be restricted due to scale build-up....maybe you just need a smaller shower head.....I think they all come with a restrictor ...

You lose about 1/2 psi for every foot of elevation.

Check your shower head. Lots of times, in the interest of saving water, there is a restrictor installed to limit water flow. If this is removable, removing it will give you more pressure.

What is the size of the main coming into the building? What's it made of?

The pressure is alway higher when no fixtures have been in use.

There is a PSI drop each floor floor must go up. Larger lines have larger drops.

Simple solutions? none. pressure increasing tanks/boosters available for $

Ask the city how much a new main line would cost and what size pressure it should be? That may be the easiest solution.

1 1/4" black plastic pipe from the well to 3/4" pex to copper manifolds in the basement w/ 1/2" pex to each fixture. Each of the manifolds has a spare port from which I can wye into the lines going to the shower. The shower heads have no restrictor plugs in them.

It 's sounding like we might need to be satisfied with what we've got, as running additional or larger lines is a big problem; there is no chase.

Since you are on your own well (deep or shallow?) and have your own pump system what is its present cut in and cut out pressures?

Typical modern residential should be running between 50 - 60 PSI cut out and 30 - 40 PSI cut in. IF yours is considerably lower than that and you have one of those stupid water saver restrictors in you shower head that would be a very good reason for your crappy shower pressure.

As for changing out pumps I would not go that far yet unless the one you have proves itself to be incapable of getting up to 50 - 60 PSI after adjusting the pressure switch.

I'm on my own well and I have my water system set for ~60 PSI at the house and I run a double shower head with the water saver disks drilled out which is quite a contrast from what I grew up with being back then we maybe had 25 PSI on a good day and an ancient rusted up shower head which meant most days you timed your shower to be when the animals were least likely to be drinking just so you could have enough water flow (determined trickle) to get the soap off.

Pressure is fine at sinks, tub and toilet on same floor - only problem is shower. No restrictors in shower heads (Large double walk-in shower). Each fixture is fed individually from the manifolds. The valves do have scald control.

1/2" pex is IMHO a lousy choice for anything other than short branch feeds. It has a smaller ID than 1/2" copper, and even with the fact your plumber could (hopefully!) have run this with no elbows you still have 3 floors plus whatever the horizontal run is- easily 30 feet or more.

Since this is a well fed system, Have you checked your your pressure setting as per tcmtech's post? I doubt you would find changing the pump to make any difference, but running at 50-70 psi instead of 30-50 would.

Otherwise, just install hot and cold pressure tanks right by the shower!

My take on this is that you are pumping from your own well, is that correct? if so and you don't want to fit a higher pressure pump then I would put a storage tank in the roof space or if no attic on a flat roof (well insulated and covered) & equalise the hot & cold pressure, I'm no lover of tanks but unless you can UP the pressure I can see no other cure, You must make sure that both sides are equalised. Just another point are you using thermostatic valves? these will stop anyone being scolded.

Bazzer

"Larger lines have larger drops". A PSI is a PSI. Line size does not matter.

Friction loss will decrease with larger lines and increase with velocity.

And that's what I meant. As in a larger line won't matter.

If you have scald protection built into the shower handle it may also be a culprit.

Remove the valve and wash what happens.

It does have scald protection; is that something that can be removed/adjusted? I'll check that when I get back home in a couple of weeks.

GA, thanks, I was tempted to buy one for my pathetic dribble of a shower. Have to investigate more.

Was considering the shower pump until I read your entry. It's looking like the pressure I've got what is what I'm going to have to live with unless the mixer valve can be changed/eliminated.

That might be my only solution. Thank you.