PVC Heat Resistance

From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_chloride#Properties

The heat stability of raw PVC is very poor, so the addition of a heat stabilizer during the process is necessary in order to ensure the product's properties. PVC starts to decompose when the temperature reaches 140 °C (284 °F), with melting temperature starting around 160 °C (320 °F). The linear expansion coefficient of rigid PVC is small and has good flame retardancy, the Limiting oxygen index (LOI) being up to 45 or more. The LOI is the minimum concentration of oxygen, expressed as a percentage, that will support combustion of a polymer and noting that air has 20% content of oxygen.

Maybe you'd be better off with Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC)

The 610 part of the name is just a way to refer to thickness 610 grams per square meter.

I don't know what the intended function is but, some of my swimming pool plumbing is 40 years old. I replaced some of it because I wanted unions connecting everything fore ease of maintenance, not because it needed to be.

It has never been covered and I live in the low desert of Arizona where the temperature has reached 122°F and routinely gets to 110-115 every summer.

Dear lyn- I asked about pvc sheet, not plumbing.

Have a nice day.

azi

PVC does suffer degredation due to UV exposure, becoming more brittle and less impact resistant where exposed.

Unfortunately, you likely haven't discovered a new strain of superior pvc in your old fittings....no need to save those any longer. Manufacturers have been aware of this for longer than the 40 years your old pvc has been installed. White PVC typically has something like TiO₂ added which makes it opaque to much of the UV. A thin outside layer is still degraded, but fittings thick enough are not functionally affected adversely.

The OP asked about heat exposure, not UV resistance.

My comments were directed at the heat exposure the plumbing would be exposed to on a hot summer day in Arizona, probably approaching 140°F or more.

Since we don't have any idea where the OP will use his pvc 610 plastic sheet, I offered a real life example instead of a heat exposure table from some tech data sheet.

"... probably approaching 140°F or more...."

Come on. This is filled with pool water and not covered as you previously said. Even that day it was 124 °F your white water filled pvc plumbing (that isn't under glass) isn't 'approaching 140°F or more'.

If trying to make your comment seem serious/legitimate requires that much of a stretch, maybe you shouldn't be so quick to disparage comments other make. Being ridiculous doesn't make your comment seem any more relevant or useful.

You really aren't very bright, are you?

You. obviously don't understand how above ground pools are plumbed, do you?

You, again, insist on having the last word in order to prove your superior intelligence.

Sometimes it is better to just stop trying than it is to continue to respond and remove all doubt as to your lack of understanding.

And please do not ask me to explain how plumbing that is 2-3 feet above the level of the pool water may be empty when the pump is not running!

"...You really aren't very bright, are you?..."

Not to you, Dunning-Kruger.

The pool being higher doesn't make the water level lower. If your ugly pool is already 3 feet out of the ground, why would you raise the ugly plumbing above that? Just for the neighbors enjoyment?

Despite all you hand waving, it is still a white pvc pipe outside with temps well below what you propose. Justify away.

I misspoke. The pool is IN the ground.

The plumbing is above the pool, and the water level.

My apologies for this error.

Fair enough.

It is very likely that I also misspoke. The chances that an inground pool is an eyesore are markedly reduced from the chances an above ground pool is an eyesore. I retract the assertion made about the pool being ugly.

WAG R value < 1.

Among the possibilities are:

• Google it
• Ask a colleague
• Experimental test
• Look it up in some standard reference
• Look it up in the manufacturer's published information
• Telephone the manufacturer, and ask.

It is not the role of this forum to assess skills, competence or determination in these areas.

The relevance of the <...Thickness 0.49 m.m...> is currently abstruse.

If thermal conductivity is in question, the matter of thickness is not abstruse at all.

Thermal conductivity is not a function of thickness.

On the other hand, thermal flux is.

I suggest to find and contact the manufacturer.

While it may be sold as PVC sheeting, each supplier would have their own "additive x" for durability, heat stabilisation, thermal stability, etc.

I've seen glass fibres (flame smoothed and rough), talc, glass beads and even other plastics used as fillers to obtain higher heat stability. Then you get into pigments (like TiOxide previously mentioned) for UV stability. but also heat reflection and dissipation.

Next is orientation relative to extrusion/blowing/moulding. The particle orientation might be such that it is more stable in one axis than another.

for plastics, there is also a difference between "softening" and 'melting" with processing usually taking place somewhere between those.

You really do need to find the manufacturer details and contact them, or their local agent.

https://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/PVC_Sheets_Data.pdf

http://www.pvc.org/en/p/heat-distortion-temperature-softening-temperature

https://versatex.com/PDF/D-1_Physical_Properties.pdf

http://www.cityplastics.com.au/site_files/687/pdf_files/pvc%20data.pdf