Retaining Wall

I would go with something like this...but the design specifics will have to be done on-site....You've got a lot of firewood there....

http://engineeringfeed.com/reinforcement-cantilever-retaining-wall

https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/poured_concrete_retaining_walls/

https://www.homeadvisor.com/cost/landscape/install-a-retaining-wall/

est ~ $110k

This retaining wall, does it also define a property line?

If yes, do you own high side?

If yes, what input has the other guy offered?

While far too early to really budget this project, I would think $30K to be wildly optimistic unless... where are you, anyway?

Yes, it is about 18" or so from the property line and yes "we" own the high side. Concrete wall has been sugessted.

Okay, concrete has been suggested.

What do you want to do? What does your neighbor want to do?

Where does he live, by the way?

Answers to the questions in #2 and #3 will speed this up quite a bit.

We are open to all suggestions. Cost, appearance, livespan, upkeep are among a number of questions. This is in Central Indiana.

Well, okay.

[Wiseacre answer mode engaged]

I would suggest a series of precast pylons in line with the image in #1, spaced about 6’0” on center. Between these pylons are installed precast concrete panels, bas-relief approx 50% of the exposed panel surfaces with interesting Hoosier bits - Bison, stagecoaches, fishing, maybe The 500 if that is your thing.

Now, this nearly pure white concrete used in the panels so far only need to be used in, say, 150 feet or so from either end. The center 200 feet should be faced in alabaster and marble, because that is where the Columbarium goes, and it should certainly reflect the somber nature of the space. As long as you keep that 18” from the neighbor property in play, there is nothing he can do about it.

Might as well turn this into black ledger entries instead of red entries, eh?

Unless these are different than the walls they use around here along highways, Warning these are sound barrier walls not designed for retaining walls. No real reinforcement inside to hold back soil. or water. Do Not use for retaining walls.

I should also mention that one suggestion has been to explore a metal sea wall option using 8 gauge metal sheets of black carbon steel with around a 40 yr. life or galvanized steel with around a 60 yr. life. Don't know the upkeep cost. Have not seen any pictures of what those might look like. Have wondered if what you see under bridge underpasses might be an option.

Something that would probably get some useful suggestions would be a bit of narrative.

“This is a large estate property with a 9,000 foot main structure of post-colonial style, a 4 bedroom guesthouse in a similar style, and an antebellum style carriage house converted to staff living quarters. This property is two blocks from the Indiana Governor’s mansion.”

“This here is a big ‘ol summer cabin type property, with two mobile homes set up as quarters. This is a wooded property, remote, the nearest concrete plant that I know of is about 110 miles away, 22 of those miles are dirt road.”

A short story describing generalities, you see. That’s all.

Untreated carbon steel might ‘last’ for 40 years, unless it is in contact with the dirt. I would suspect an actual service life of about 5 years. Is it acceptable that this retainer look like the fence around Fred Sanford’s recycling yard?

This bridge underpass of which you speak cannot be seen from Montana.

Thanks for your comments. The retaining wall is at the rear of the property on the south side of the property. To the south of it is property owned by the city which is a large drainage area that partially holds water runoff during heavy storms. The area within five or six feet never floods as it is much higher than the ground on to the south of the retaining wall. A creek/drainage way is probably 100 yards to the south and is borderd by trees. Part of the retaining wall is visable from a road that is on the west side. Does that make sense?

Yes, this is helpful information.

It has already yielded a good suggestion, I would second the suggestion of a gabion retainer, maybe simply piled rubble or riprap.

Would this be appropriate? Advantages include, the existing structure may be able to remain with this scheme, permanence, low maintenance.

Never mind.

When I follow your link, it shows a video of an Indian family separating chaff from wheat.

Try this link. This a South African product, but I am sure there must be a similar product available in your area. It is easy to install and because it is not solid you have no drainage problems.

Best advice get cost estimates for a continuous concrete wall (with maybe a stamped pattern to make look nice) or Modular block wall, or even another R/R tie wall (they last a long time). They will break down cost by labor and materials. Then decide if this is something you want to do yourself or hire a contractor.
Another option get rid of the wall all together and grade the slope, you will definitely need to get your neighbors involved if you decide to grade the slope. You'll probably need a Temporary Grading Easement.

Consider sectional precast precast concrete retaining wall. You can get this as an L shape with the toe of the L protruding into your neighbour's property but it would be about 6" below ground so he could grass right up to the edge. In the UK there are many suppliers but your overall heights are low so most local companies who offer precast concrete services could supply you. To minimise costs your heights may need to be in steps but stepping the base of the trench would still give a level top height.

When getting quotes;

Leave the existing timber structure in place with minimal cutting back of protrusions and place the precast section in front of the existing structure. Big reduction in site labour costs.

Ask for panels that go straight onto the ground with no groundwork preparation other than levelling and compacting the base of a shallow trench.

Ask for sections with tongue and groove ends so that the interlock and are easy and quick to install.

See if you can find a company that supplies hybrid panels with a concrete backing and a gabion cage facing filled with rock. This would provide and attractive wall for your neighbour, allow you to stop the pipes short and perculate water through the rock facing, and leave gaps between precast sections and fill in the gaps with standard rock filled gabions where trees are too near and need room to grow without destroying the wall. (see www.jpconcrete.co.uk for the type of panel I am suggesting)

Gabion construction may be cost effective for your situation, if the appearance is satisfactory...

First, and foremost, provide for full drainage along the backside of the base of the wall, for the entire length of the wall, no matter how little rainfall the site gets...

At 2' high, it's just a type of Garden Wall, but at 5' high, its starting to get (serious) haha...

Even if the site is in a location of only remotely possible seismic activity, then you still need to have the backfill (professionally engineered) ...

Why bother? Just grade the earth to a slope over say a 10' width (5' each side of the property line) and put up a fence.
Save yourself and the neighbour a fortune.
Del

What about cement bags?

A little bit at a time....one row a week?

Could even terrace the wall....

http://www.rentate.com/cement-bag-retaining-wall/cement-bag-retaining-wall-bagged-concrete-examples-forum-archinect-for-the-home/

All these photo's are very nice, being pre-earthquake, pre-flood, pre-hurricane, pre-neighbors' water leak, etc., ...

If you watch the video, it's not very high, just grading with rubble topped with soil will likely withstand rain earthquake etc far better than a concrete barrier which will be far more likely to entrain water behind it.
If railway sleepers have done the job for years then it doesn't need anything much more sophisticated.
In fact leave the sleepers, just pile up rubble and soil then grade it.
Seems a bit of a non problem to me.
Del

''For want of a nail, a shoe was lost...''

Au contraire ... For want of the correct solution, endless maintenance was required!
I'll bet that level change isn't naturally occurring.. it's a man made problem. The solution is to grade it or let it slump back to a natural angle of repose.
It then won't move or fall further.
If you put something on a shelf it can fall off... if you put it on the floor it can't.
The cost and maintenance for a simple natural slope is much lower. It will actually look better too!
Too many things these days seem to be a problem creation exercise!
Del

Probably local enough to you... shay murtagh... Mulingar

https://www.shaymurtagh.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/retaining_walls.pdf