Want to Remove Stud from Closet Partition Wall Under Scissor Truss - Is It Load Bearing? (Blueprint Photos Included)

In a word, no.

If your intention is to remove a single stud, as shown, go ahead.

I think you need to take out some more sheetrock and expose the entire door framing...then just add new longer top header and side support...I would move it to the next stud over...

https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2001/03/15/anatomy-of-a-stud-framed-wall

I'd agree with this, except the header beams appear to be shown lying horizontally. There ought to be 2 2x4s standing vertically. Like this: ||| rather than ≡.

If the opening is being made larger (not a complete wall removal), then it's a matter of having enough vertical studs at the sides of the opening to provide the 'missing' support. Since studs are on 16 inch centers, if the opening is increased up to 16 inches wider, you'd add one additional stud to each side of the opening. (So if each side of the old opening had 2 studs, the new opening would need 3 studs. The new header might need 2x6s instead of 2x4s.) If the opening is made wider than 16 inches , you'd need 2 additional studs added to each side.

Yes for a supporting wall, but I don't think this qualifies as a supporting wall....

Since you are essentially just widening an existing doorway, then it looks plausible to do, in part, because the existing lintel appears to be relatively shallow, and therefore, not a primary part of the structure...

The Bottom Line may be what the local City, and/or County, Building Department(s) are willing to issue a Permit for...

(It's not entirely clear whether your studs are at 16", or 24", on-center?...)

In any case, you should add diagonal 2x4 studding above the lintel to increase the wall stiffness, as a whole...

In the second image in the OP (blue drawing with the two arrows) are the framers marks (red pencil) indicating layout of studs at 16” OC. Also shows us jamb studs are singles (no jack studs, so no header).

In my opinion this is simply a demising partition to define a closet space.

[edit] Permit this? No, this is less of a deal than building a 30” cubed doghouse in the back yard.

Questions and observations.
1. Is there actually a truss above that studwork. If answer is no, then you can remove as much as you want.
(It's not obvious from the plans which way the trusses run above that stud work)
2. If the studwork at that point is load bearing, why isn't there similar studwork beneath other trusses in the large open area of the building?
3. If you are only widening the opening it won't make any difference as long as the beam across the top is suitably sized.
Every indication is that it isn't load bearing IMO.
Del
PS. You could remove your metal braces continue the cut through that joist and see if the saw cut closes and pinches the saw blade. If it is load bearing, allowing it to shift 1/8" won't do any harm, but I'll bet the upper part will hang limply implying it is not load bearing.

Given that the entire closet appears to be non-structural (excepting the exterior wall portion, of course), it seems like it would generate more usable shelf space to move the entire closet backwall to aligning with that of the backwall of the adjacent room, across the little hallway, in order to create a better walk-in closet, than just the proposed door-widening?...

The thing I find most interesting about post's like this is that the construction / remodel is started first, then questions are asked second.

He has simply removed drywall to determine the location of the studs.

The photos he has provided are a big help, and may indeed differ from the original drawings.

When I was much younger, I helped my father build houses. Depending on the crew building his house, things may have changed during construction.

Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House - Wikipedia

A zircon hd 70 can be used to find location of studs & live electrical wiring, without removing drywall.

We have photo evidence that are past that point in the investigation.

That was just a suggestion for his next project.

Although you have to be really careful on the situation. About 20 years ago, a stop order was issued on a housing project. It appeared the the contractor was spacing the studs so far apart, the drywall was more or less the supporting member for the wall.

My wife and I were looking at models, when I opened a door, there was a creak, I looked down a wall and it looked wavy, on the inside and the outside ! We lit out of there mighty quick, for fear of imminent collapse.

A ‘wavy’ wall could be the result of not ‘crowning’ the wall studs during the framing work. I don’t think that a wavy wall is technically a defect, but crowning the studs is a step that a reputable carpenter would not skip.

Best practice. Workmanship. Craftsmanship. These are traits that seem to be set aside in the times of dollar worship.

Doorman, not when the studs are placed 48" on center. You must not live in California. Some of the contractors here will have a few " reputable " Carpenters on site with the bulk of the workers made up of those with questionable " papers " , slapping them together then moving to the next house. Something that has been on the decline since November 2016.

Wow, that's beyond shoddy work, that's plain old cheating the consumer.

So, buyer beware is the buzzphrase?

Go for it. The truss is running perpendicular to the wall in question. The only load that front wall of the closet enclosure is carrying is drywall. The back wall, if it runs to the ceiling, being close to structure centerline, would best be left alone.

Welcome to CR4! Your question clearly piqued the interest of a number of CR4 members. Please post pictures of your completed project and let us know if you run into any unexpected issues down the road.