Radiator Leak

If you are near such an outfit, you might "Rent a Wreck" for a few days until this radiator is sorted out.

I see the "crack", but no noticeable liquid residue around it. How fast is the leak? Can you just get a jug of premixed radiator fluid and add to the expansion tank occasionally?

Best wishes on your recovery and therapy.

Thanks for the best wishes. As for the leak, I am going to do something tomorrow in an attempt to stop the leak.

Didn't get back on the bike for 5 weeks, 4 days after the left knee was replaced. This knee and leg were in much better shape before the surgery. (Day 3 I was walking up and down the road with a cane that only occasionally touched the ground). The physical therapist walking with me was a bit in shock.

Years ago, my friends and I would do something similar. As long as the car is running well and it's not too hot out, you can loosen the radiator cap - don't take it off, just loosen it! You'll most likely find that the leak stops. Just make sure there's plenty of coolant in the overflow bottle. Also, coolant leaks out of small spaces, ie cracks. Water on the other hand doesn't leak as much. If it's a very short time, you can drain the coolant and fill with deionized water. Just don't leave it long or you'll have head gasket problems.

As Lyn suggests, some sticky tape on the crack will help. Remember that the radiator will get hot (212 ish), so some very sticky tapes may not hold at that temperature. HVAC tape or roofing tape may work - there's some pretty sticky stuff out there.

Good luck!

You're right. I stand corrected.

If you can get at the inside, it's best to seal it inside where the pressure is. That way, the pressure helps to keep it sealed rather than helping to make it leak. I don't know if this helps.

I'm contemplating that option but really dont' want to touch the hose clamp.

$9...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00753MZWG?tag=mcaveman-20

A possibility. My concern would be if there is a crack this won't keep it from spreading. I'll keep it in mind, maybe I will use this in addition to anything done externally.

Well these additives are not meant for a permanent repair solution, only temporary....The plastic should be welded as illustrated in a previous thread, if that is plastic or more precisely, nylon 6...or replaced...

A nice option S.E., thanks. Don't know if I can cobble together the tooling for it but I'll give it some serious consideration.

Right now it is this or I'll cut some thin sheet metal and put E-6000 between the radiator and the metal.

All you need is a heat gun, something to rough the surface around the crack, something to clean the surface, a good soldering iron, and a piece of nylon...I had a video in a previous thread of a guy welding with a soldering iron and a zip tie....I wouldn't trust any glues or epoxies...(although E-6000 is excellent for almost anything) .. keeping your engine cool is a critical application, and not something I would take a chance with...heat is an engines worst enemy, and will destroy it rather quickly if given half a chance....I would consider experimentation a foolhardy endeavor...In any case I would watch it rather closely, and keep a full coolant container in the trunk...

Solar is 100 percent correct. Heat will destroy the engine, so you have to watch the temp gauge and the coolant level. The reason you have to watch both is that the coolant can drop so low that the temp sensor will be dry and you'll get a mis-reading. The coolant level sensor will tell you if the coolant level is too low - at that point, pull over, because you know you have a leak and it could've turned into a big one.

I have used it with excellent results most of the time and it appears harmless to the engine and cooling system.

The plastic looks like it may be getting brittle, hence the crack. If this is the case, don't grind or cut into the plastic. Instead, try wrapping it tightly to keep the plastic intact. Not too tight or you might cave it in. Try some HVAC tape - this stuff is good for up to 350 deg f. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Intertape-Polymer-Group-2-5-in-x-60-yds-UL-181AP-BFX-Code-Approved-Aluminum-Foil-Tape-ALF201LUL2560HR/205586161?keyword=ALF201L&semanticToken=200300000+%3E++st%3A%7Balf201l%7D%3Ast+cnn%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cnr%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cnb%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+oos%3A%7B0%3A1%7D+qu%3A%7Balf201l%7D%3Aqu

Lots of good suggestions, although this is my perspective. You say that it will rain over the weekend and you need, must, want to go to physical therapy on Monday. How about rescheduling therapy for the following monday ? , then you will have the whole week to get the repair done correctly, not some under the gun quickey band-aid fixie job.

I'm guessing your surgeon waited to fix up your knee right the first time, not some half ass repair job.

I'm already scheduled for PT three times a week for the next three weeks and this is not changing. The sessions are only about 11 miles round trip each. Thanksgiving weekend will be a great time to replace the radiator.

I was thinking the same thing. A blown head gasket/warped head, etc can cost much more to fix later. I'm not a fan of band-aid type repairs.

How about taking Uber or Lyft? For a small amount of money, you won't risk damaging your Jeep.

Just a thought ...

Uber is great for short trips....I have used them a few times for emergency situations...

We'll all be looking forward to hearing how this turns out so don't forget to tell us. Sending you best wishes for a swift and completely uneventful recuperation!

Thanks! I will update on the results soon.

First I would like to thank all of you who offered well wishes for my recovery. The surgeon removed the staples today. He told me he has done 1500 total knee replacements and I'm his valedictorian. I'm cleared to resume driving and have his blessing to ride the motorcycle starting Thanksgiving Weekend.

Secondly my thanks to all of your suggestions for how to proceed with my problem.

Here is what I ended up doing. Although I did not want to touch the radiator hose it was necessary to drain out some of the coolant and this was the easiest method. This also gave me more surface to work with. The line visible in the photo in the OP was indeed a crack. With the "tab", (hose stop), cut off and everything clean and dry I coated the crack with E6000 then put the hose back on moving it beyond where it was before. The hose clamp was repositioned to the end of the hose placing it almost a half inch further onto the radiator where it is clamping the crack together more effectively. After adding a sufficient amount of E6000 I added a fender washer on the flat surface of the radiator. I've heated it up twice with a heat gun and will do so again in a few hours to hasten the curing process. After the rain clears out Sunday afternoon I'll start up the Jeep and see if everything is holding. I'm also considering borrowing my daughter's car for Monday's PT session and hold off starting my engine until Tuesday.

Nice fix. I'll give you one other recommendation. Try putting a second radiator hose clamp where the original one was. The clamp is very close to the end of the hose - most likely you won't have a problem, but a little extra insurance can save you an engine overheating.

A valid suggestion. I agree that it is unlikely there will be a problem but a second clamp can do no harm as long as it isn't too tight. Thanks.

That looks like another crack on the top there....What'd ya drop an anvil on the radiator? haha,,, Oh well....Good Luck!

LOL, that is a rubber cover above the radiator!

It looks like you might be able to wrap around the crack.

Maybe this will work long enough.

Silicone tape is a great recommendation. The stuff works great - I used it on my intake hose problem on my little Alfa. It's been under the hood now for about 2-3 months and no signs of giving out. I was worried about the heat and vibration, but no problems.

There have been a number of comments about leaving the radiator cap loose. Since the leak is at the uppermost part of the radiator, once sufficient coolant has been lost, only air will escape the system. If it is only leaking under pressure it is more likely that, as the engine cools down after turning it off, it will draw coolant back into the system from the recovery tank only if the cap is properly installed. I'm in New England where things have cooled down quite a bit. Being well aware of the potential for engine damage from overheating my first and likely only action, upon seeing a rise in the temperature gauge, would be to put the heating temperature and fan on high helping to keep the engine cool till arriving at my destination. I can see no purpose to touching the radiator cap under these circumstances.

You said, " it will draw coolant back into the system from the recovery tank only if the cap is properly installed."

If you have a leak that allows water to "leak out" the radiator probably never builds any internal pressure. So, there's nothing to "suck" water back into the radiator.

Once you shut the engine off you have a path to atmospheric pressure, the crack, so no water will be drawn from the recovery tank.

I said, "If it is only leaking under pressure it is more likely that, as the engine cools down after turning it off, it will draw coolant back into the system from the recovery tank only if the cap is properly installed". I contend that this statement is accurate. Even if the coolant and or air is leaking out, if it is only leaking under pressure then, as the air in the cooling system cools, a vacuum will still be generated drawing coolant back from the recovery tank.

The radiator cap has a spring which needs pressure to open the "valve". The valve allows the coolant to flow to the overflow tank. When the radiator cools, it builds vacuum and a second valve allows the radiator to pull coolant from the overflow tank. If the radiator (cooling system) can't build vacuum due to a leak, it won't be able to pull the coolant out of the overflow tank.

True. Please look at the location of the crack in the OP. It is on the side of essentially an elbow. When pressure builds in the cooling system it is forcing the crack open. When there is no pressure the crack closes. Any building vacuum is actually sealing the crack. In any case the temporary fix is working perfectly.

i suggest you try Jeepforum.com. They have some great tips and help. A few members are factory Engineers, both retired and current. It is model specific, yours is WJ. You might even find someone nearby, who will be able to help.

The results are in! My knee is getting along fine with the brake and gas pedals. Additionally, after two heat up, cool down cycles there is no further sign of leakage. Hopefully it will continue to hold till Thanksgiving. If it fails I can call AAA if need be and use my daughter's Jeep to get by.

Thanks again for all of the input and friendly banter.

Glad you're not leaking coolant but even gladder to hear that your bionic knee is functioning as designed.

Thanks! I'm two for two in that department. (The left knee was done in May).

Interesting ... Did the docs recommend not doing both at the same time? Or did your right knee fail after the surgery on the left?

Initially, the doc thought I could get a few more years out of the right knee so we went with just the left. Surgery was at the surgical center run by the orthopedic group and I was back home the same day. Had it been bilateral, it likely would not have been an outpatient procedure. I started to experience pain in the other knee months later and we decided to move ahead and get it done as well. All things considered, I'm happy with the end results. The second knee was a major out-of-the-norm for recovery. Three days after surgery I was outside walking around with a cane, but hardly using it for support (first knee wiped out the out-of-pocket maximum on my insurance and getting the second done in the same calendar year provided a major $$$ savings)!

Thanks for all your advice.

Back around 2001, she tore her meniscus while running down some sand dunes at the beach. Her doc gave her the bad news and told her the only choice was to operate! We talked to quite a few people and found out about rebuilding tissue with Chondroitin, Glucosamin and MSM. We had to get the dosage right, then after 3 weeks, it worked. That fall, we took our trip to Half Dome in Yosemite. No pain during the entire hike!

A few years ago, she started having pain in her knee. She actually hurt it again - I forgot how, but she did hurt it. It didn't heal as well as the first time, then a few months ago, we were in Hollywood, crossing the street and some lady came inches from hitting her. She fell back and in the process hurt her knee again. Because of all the commotion - me chasing the car down and screaming at the driver - plus with the adrenaline rush, she felt some pain, but it wasn't that bad. The next day - lots of pain! So, with the prior damage and the current injury, the doc said that she's now bone on bone and it's either cortisone or surgery.

A good friend of ours in the medical field told us that huge leaps in joint replacement are around the corner, so if she can hold off, she'll be able to benefit.

One thing I know about is this Agili-C implant. Have you heard of it or did you consider it when thinking about your knee surgery?

I'm thinking that the least invasive procedure (that also works) is our best bet.

This is the first I've heard of Agili-C. While the proceedure I've had twice now is invasive it is also tried and true. The joints have an estimated life span of 30 years and, should I manage to wear either of them out, the plastic insert between the metal caps on the bones can be simply replaced and I'm back on the road.

Sorry to hear of all the issues you and your wife have had to deal with, best of luck to you.

Good to hear about your knee! My better half is thinking about having her knees replaced. The doc said that she's bone on bone and that's why she's experiencing such pain.

Also, good to hear about your Jeep repair holding up. My gut feeling is that it'll hold for the time you need it to, since you're only driving short distances and it's pretty cool where you're at.

Thanks. My advice for your wife is find a good orthopedic group and thoroughly check out the online reviews of all of their doctors that do total knee replacements. Get it done ASAP!!! Her leg is getting shorter due to the wear. As this happens the muscles and ligaments are shortening as well. The longer this goes on the longer and more painfull the rehab. Go in there with a positive attitude that getting the surgery is a good thing. Tude matters!

The radiator patch lasted till Thanksgiving Weekend and with a partial day of great weather forecast I set about replacing it. After watching a number of videos on how to accomplish the task I set about working with a positive attitude. The videos lied. I'm thoroughly convinced it was intended by Jeep Management that owners should scrap their Jeeps and buy a new one when the radiator failed. Today was the next day with temps over 50° and, with special tools available, once again I tackled removal of the radiator. With about 8-9 hours invested over the two days I've worked on it the radiator, lower radiator hose, thermostat, t-stat housing, both heater hoses and all of the clamps have been replaced. I did not like the condition of the lower transmission fluid line attached to the radiator so a new one is now on order. Once it is installed and both tranny fluid lines connected, the new upper radiator hose, coolant and radiator cap will go in. At this point I estimate 2 hours to finish everything to where the engine can be brought up to temperature and checked for leaks. Unfortunately, if the fan shroud is installed it will be far more difficult to check for leaks and I'll likely have to disconnect the upper radiator hose to install the shroud. Should that go well another hour or so to put the fan shroud back in and button up the front end.

If you'd taken the Jeep to a mechanic you'd have shelled out enough $ to buy a new vehicle. Impressive work!

How's the new knee?

Both of the knees were a bit stiff after all of the up, down and under work I put them through, thanks for asking. (I fixed a problem with my Lincoln Towncar prior to tackling the Jeep, lost the nut, washer & bushing on top of a rear shock). A few hours rest and they felt great again. As for paying a mechanic, I'm too cheap, (or stupid)?, to pay someone else to do something I believe I can do.

That's insane!!! 8-9 hours + 2 more to complete the job!

There's something to be said about Toyota cars. In the past, they'd engineer the cars to be easy to take apart and put back together.

A few years ago, I changed a radiator in my 1995 Volvo 960 wagon. It took about an hour and a half from start to finish. It should be easy like this. It's only a radiator.

Thank you.

Greg

I wholeheartedly agree!!! If the radiator & fan shrould were 3/4" narrower, or the space between the frame that much larger things could have gone much better. The bolt attaching the fan shroud to the radiator, located behind the steering box, was rusted and extremely difficult to get a wrench onto.

I have a 1998 Lincoln Town Car. To replace the headlight assemblies there are three brackets on each that pull straight up, usually without any tools. That is it. I've done a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse, 2002 Mazda6 and a 2002 Mazda Protege. All three require removal of the bumper to access the mounting bolts.

Love my Lincoln!

Happy New Year!