Automatic Gearbox Maintenance?

The purpose of a <...filter...> is to block the passage of solids. In doing so, it presents an increasing resistance to flow over time.

Whether it needs to be serviced or replaced within the lifetime of the vehicle depends on a number of factors that cannot be evaluated from here.

".... In the garden, growth has its seasons. First comes spring and summer, but then we have fall and winter. And then we get spring and summer again...."

Excerpt from "Being There" (1979) by Peter Sellers

Thanks for your input (also glad you did not unsubscribe so far )

I have seen 5 or 6 videos and I got a bit more confused as some just drain the ATF and replace with new oil, others also change the filter (as if it were a regular oil filter)

... and finally there is this guy who changes oil and filter and also pumps the remaining oil out by starting the engine during the procedure.

My question is which is right for a car with 130 K kilometres?

Your owner's manual will cover the subject of periodic maintenance quite completely. If they say it is a lifetime filter, then leave it be, unless you are running the vehicle into severe operating conditions, also usually well described in the manual.

250,000 miles on an automatic transmission without any fluid exchange or filter replacement, relatively normal driving conditions, is my experience. Getting past 150,00 miles with no repair history is pretty good, none of the repairs appear to be those that would have been fixed by a fluid change. In fact, I've often wondered if taking it apart and working on it probably leaves you more exposed to possible damage and errors than if you did nothing.

Well, that´s exactly the kind of discussion I am looking for: I don´t have any experience in these kind of gear boxes.. there are a lot of urban myths around... and Honda´s use manual does not say THAT much (information is also biased to direct you to a dealership for the procedure).

Thank you

Yes it does seem to be confusing....My take is that it is not good practice to empty the transmission completely, but rather preferable to change the transmission fluid in steps, 1/3 at a time...so that in the end you have mostly new fluid...It seems the method to this madness is that no air pockets are allowed into the transmission which can damage the inner workings, clutches and such....Truthfully I don't understand what may be unique about this type of transmission as I have had several automatic transmissions over the years and flushing the transmission fluid is regular procedure around 75k miles....This takes a special machine that pumps the old fluid out while pumping the new fluid in..for about $75...plus materials....but I defer to the Honda crv owners club, they should know the best way...

..."Yep--drain--Fill,, drive for a few days or a week

Repeat--do this 3 or 4 times depending on how the fluid looks.
never a good idea to Flush a Trans.
use Honda Fluid only--it cost the same as aftermarket
Look for recent post--it's been discussed a lot lately."...

https://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/19-maintenance-service/156201-2011-transmission-fluid-change-119-a.html

I agree with you about emptying the transmission completely... sounds a bit scary to me!

no special pump needed, disconnect the line that goes to the radiator. you can figure out which is supply and which is return by starting the engine. the tranny pump will empty the fluid for you.

Hi, Thanks a lot for your input !

It has been of great help.

GA!

Great point Ralph. Adding an external transmission cooler helps keep the transmission fluid from overheating. If you ever tow something or you're driving steep hills, it's a must.

Thanks a lot for the info Autobroker ! I will do as you say.

GA!

In my country, until 10 or 15 years ago automatic transmission vehicles were considered as a bad purchase because they were extremely hard to sell, mainly because of the "good drivers shift gears" concept (sort of a "macho" statement).

The real reasons may well have been a bit more realistic: there was a relative scarce number of mechanics trained in their maintenance / repair and that spare parts were difficult to be found.

Nowadays AT is the first choice for people who spend hours in highways while commuting.

In smaller towns / countryside MT is still the first option.

Another reason for mainly manual cars was fuel consumption. Up until the 90s auto trannys were usually three speed, so drank lots at high speed. Manual had 5 or 6 speeds so could run more efficiently.

Now both are many geared and computer operated to get the most from the users driving style.

You're very welcome! Good luck with your CR-V - it's a great car!

the filter does not need to be changed. it will last a lifetime. old time filters made of cloth or fiberous polymer did need replacing but these are a metal mesh and will be fine. the fluid change that they usually do is not as good a way to do things. there is a lot of oil in the torque converter. the proper way to replace the oil is to disconnect the line that goes to the radiator and put it into a large bucket. while someone is sitting in the drivers seat, you will need to have your new fluid ready to fill, as the engine is started, the pump will drain the old oil into your bucket while you are pouring new fluid into the fill port. once you see the oil change from a dark brown to the light red color, have the friend shut the engine off. attach the line back to the radiator and run for a while and check the fluid level and top off if needed. it too much is in, drain some.

this is the way to correctly do it.

Perhaps it is a problem of erroneous ratios...

"... 130,000 km (aprox 90 K miles) ..."

130,000 km ~= 80,730 or approximately 80 K miles.

I actually eyeballed figures...