Carbide Tipped Saw Blades

An abrasive cut-off disk should work; get the right kind for the metal to be cut.

I thought about it, but I was worried the pipe would change color. In the past, I've done this with stainless hardware and it would turn bluish black.

Thanks for the advice. I did not use a cutting blade, due to the possibility that it would discolor the metal and I wouldn't be able to match the original finish.

The parts came with a brushed nickel finish. If you look at the uncut pipe, you'll see the gray finish on the end of the pipe. When you look at the cut pipe, you'll see the bright finish. If I used a cutoff wheel, it would most likely change the color. If I polished or used steel wool or a green pad, it would have a bright finish, similar to the cut pipe. It wouldn't match the uncut pipe - brushed nickel finish.

I would suggest using the appropriate cutting blade in a wet tile saw. It will take longer because the only cutting that will be effective is the physical removal of the portion being cut. Melting the metal is not what you desire for this job because allowing the heat to build to that point is what is causing the discoloration. You should also get a more aesthetically pleasing cut.

I would go with the dry type diamond blades....they last much longer, cut faster, cooler...

A 4 1/2 blade would be used in an angle grinder, right? So I could've used it, but I'd have to remove the shield first, so I could use it as a cutting tool.

I wonder if it would discolor the metal too?

I would use the 7 1/4" blade chop saw for a square cut....or miter saw since I already have a couple...

Hi Solar, Yes, that would be a great saw to use. A nice square cut!

All good answers.

I have my metal chop saw that I'll cut four inch plate with in about an hour.

It would also chop that.

If not that, an 1/8" thick metal cutting ( or diamond dry blade )abrasive blade on a 4 1/2" grinder.

..the carbide tipped diablo blade will do it fine, but wouldn't want to do it all day.

.. last choice would be a bimetal blade in a sawzawl or gasp jigsaw.

Great looking tub enclosure!

My choice of the jigsaw was only because I didn't have my sawzall. Let me correct that, I had a small mini sawzall that runs off the Milwaukee 12V battery - I don't think it would've been able to cut the pipe.

A metal chop saw would've been great! I don't own one, but I use my miter saw for things like that - I put the right blade in and it works like a charm.

I've never cut stainless steel this thick, so I just experimented. Jigsaw with the carbide blade won out!

You would have to follow a mark with or without the guard on.

These discs are thin and dangerous, but if used right, they don't shatter and are fast/cheap/easy with practice and control. No discoloration unless pressed dangerously.

.. I forgot to mention a 7 and a quarter inch circular saw with an abrasive blade works well but those blades are generally a little fatter, But they can be very safe and fast

Stay out of the path of disc shatter always!

Yes, discs blow up! Thanks for the reminder!

You do realize the doors are backwards....?

It had to go on that way. The toilet is too close to the tub, so it would be too hard for someone to enter that way. Actually, I think the best option would've been to use a "normal" door that has two panels that slide, but Anzzi doesn't make one. They make a hinged door, but that wouldn't work well either.

The hardware goes either way, you can still have it open from the right you just need to switch the door positions...The glass on the inside is always on the side with the showerhead, otherwise you'll flood the bathroom....

Normally, you're right. For this set, the fixed glass must be on the outside. The reason is that the "threshold" is the only thing that keeps the water from spilling outside the glass. If the moving glass were placed on the outside, then any water hitting it would land outside of the "threshold" and would drip to the floor.

To keep water from getting past the opening, there's a seal (sweep type) on the vertical edge of the moving glass and another one on the vertical edge of the fixed glass. The two seals keep water from getting past the outside glass.

"Normal" shower doors don't have the two sweeps, so water would spray past them if the doors were placed the same way as my new set is and like you said, it would be all over the floor!

OK but seems like that would interfere with the sliding glass door...let us know how it works...

Hi Solar,

Here's a drawing.

To move the door to the outside of the fixed glass, the following would have to be done.

1. Move the top rod to the outside of the fixed glass.

2. The roller door would be moved to the outside of the fixed glass and roll on the top rod.

3. Any water hitting the sliding door would run down the glass and fall on the outside of the bottom threshold (rail) and then it would fall to the floor.

The threshold has drain holes on one side only,so that any water running down the doors is drained back into the tub.The door nearest the shower head should be inside of the tub.The drain holes should face the inside of the tub.

All shower doors have a wiper on the edge of the inside door.

I have seen instructions that were ambiguous,even with pictures,but I have never seen a properly installed door as you have described it.

Additional info on above comment:

The threshold has drain holes on one side only,so that any water running down the doors is drained back into the tub.The door nearest the shower head should be inside of the tub.The drain holes should face the inside of the tub.

All shower doors have a wiper on the edge of the inside door.

I have seen instructions that were ambiguous,so here is a link to a video of installation.The video is near the bottom of the page.

The end cut is covered by sleeves,so any discoloration will be covered by the sleeves.

https://www.amazon.com/ANZZI-Symmetrical-Reversible-Installation-SD-AZ13-02BN/dp/B075GXZS39?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B075GXZS39

This is a totally different design...

https://d1y6jrbzotnyjg.cloudfront.net/Z7AX4/e6d149e9cce84c1dbc66b1366cefbdfb/V11/e8882fbb7d424a678c8ad4e4935768d4/ShortForm-Generic-480p-16-9-1409173089793-rpcbe5.mp4?Expires=1576858577&Signature=cf1Z3D-CTlq4IBBEgnMGbwLqpYtbjthYaBehXBB5KUGtYzWFbOXSFWdlRdwUDJRU24PW-VR67zskLIMQ0NR0BcIqZb~hwKBCsBPeuXKOQbimmfdTQG3wXLzhheU9UeHjJNmKTCIPUQ1L7tMxeGlOSG8cH3Bp8lNXJCgaX3YJqBs_&Key-Pair-Id=APKAJ62XWKZ35EOVO4XA

I think this install video is a similar design...

I think the OP is missing the requirement to remove the hardware from the glass and turn the glass around, not the whole assembly. Lower track stays with holes to the inside, upper rail relatively fixed, glass is rotated, and hardware re-installed for the opposite hand installation.

If the assembly is already mounted and the tile and tub have been drilled and sealed, it may be a mess to fix.

The design of the drip guard would need to be altered...not worth the trouble...You would still have to get into the shower to turn the water on, unless you have a remote control, which they do make controls that mount on the outside of the shower, but that's another story...

..."Think of the valve as the engine that powers the spray functions or the brain that brings water, steam, music and light together for a full sensory experience. There are a number of ways to power and control the water in your shower, depending on the look and the type of experience you prefer, from traditional manual valves and controls to a digital valve and touchscreen."...

Wow, that is one cool controller! I would love to have one, but with plumbing, I've come to the conclusion that simpler is better.

Here's something I put in the master bathroom a few years ago. It's awesome, but unfortunately, we left the house soon after I finished the bathroom remodel. So our kids are now enjoying the shower! Anzzi SS shower panels

That is pretty cool....I am facing a similar situation...need to upgrade the toilets and shower plumbing, hate these water saver things...

It's the control valve that is restrictive, I changed the head 5 min after arrival...haha

Think about using a shower panel. I was going to put a four panel rain shower panel in the ceiling, mount body sprayers on the walls and have a handheld with rail. I would have to install a temperature and pressure regulated valve - Grohe makes a nice one, but I'd have to run a four way valve for the shower head, then run all that plumbing, including the four channel ceiling shower panel. The one I have is a silver color version of this one https://www.efaucets.com/detail.asp?product_id=K-98740-2BZ&gclid=CjwKCAiAis3vBRBdEiwAHXB29DVeuQCpmsYVsCCdEUuw5D-utUyVrt9F9kh1o0dTquGsoqH6EgnJURoCPBoQAvD_BwE

I didn't use it, so it's sitting in a box in the garage. I'll use it in the condo when I get around to it - someday...

I also installed two water saving duo flush toilet valves. Bad idea! The tenants find a way to break them and the water savings doesn't compensate for having me drive 76 miles each way to replace a broken part. Once they're installed, it's difficult to put it back to original, so I left them in and I put up with an occasional call.

I've heard that Toto toilets are the best. I try to use Kohler - I like the brand, but for the rentals, it's whatever is priced right and feels well made. Am Standard and Delta are good. Keep away from Glacier Bay or any house brand - they're not as well made.

I have had good results from our dual flush Toto, and the ones at work seem to stand up to abuse as well as other brands.

An enclosed trapway is a feature I would get again, looks nice and easier to maintain.

Shame to have nice shower doors like that and not an LED shower head also.

No LED shower head for tenants.

I've found that Speakman shower heads are super durable and the tenants love them. I haven't had one go out yet. They cost a little more, but they're "tenantproof", work well and look good.

Hi GW,

For this set up, the fixed glass must be on the outside of the top "rail". The bottom threshold holds the fixed glass in place. If the sliding door were on the outside of the fixed glass, then water would flow from the sliding door glass to the outside of the threshold and on to the floor. If you watch the video Solar provided, you'll see how it works.

It's not a "normal" tub door. I've installed dozens of shower/tub doors and this one is an oddball ... but a great looking one at that!

Hi Solar, Wow, I wish I would've watched that video before I started my installation. My door is very similar to the one in the video. The general design is the same, except for a few small differences.

Yes, you are correct, the design is totally different from a "normal" door. The threshold doesn't guide the sliding door, like it typically would. It's used as to keep water from getting past the sliding door.

Thanks for the video.

This is not a normal tub door, however your assumptions would be correct if it were.

There are no drain holes on the threshold. Why? It's not used as a channel for the glass, except for the fixed glass, which is sealed to the threshold via silicone.

All shower doors do not have a wiper on the edge - I'm looking at one right now and it doesn't. I've installed quite a few shower/tub doors and the majority did not have a wiper.

The instructions were pretty clear about a few issues. First, the sliding door can be installed right to left or left to right. It doesn't matter which way the door is oriented in regard to the shower head. What does matter is the placement of the top "rail". It must be on the inside of the fixed glass. The sliding door must slide on the inside of the fixed glass. Water must slide off the sliding door on to the inside of the threshold, so the water will flow into the tub. The threshold does not hold the sliding glass in place. The sliding glass position is controlled by a nice metal guide with a plastic insert to protect the glass.

Understood - my key point is once it has been mounted with a RH moving door it is not simple to change to LH moving door (and that toilet placement is inconvenient).

It is peculiar how many toilets are beside the handles of the tub with very little clearance.

Even when you have a nice warm flow from the bathtub spout, switching to shower head often gives a shot of cold followed by some more temperature adjustments.

With your floor plan I still find a curtain more convenient, though not as aesthetically pleasing.

Hope it all works to your satisfaction.

The reason most builders choose to put the toilet next to the tub/shower valve is cost. The plumbing stub outs are on the same wall. Most homes have bathrooms that are back to back for that reason too. My house is a bit of an oddball. The tub/shower valve, toilet and sink are all on the same wall (normal cost cutting) and the master bath is right behind it with the toilet on the same wall (again normal). The oddball part is that the shower valve is on a wall around the corner and the sink is around another corner. So the master bath has plumbing on three of the four walls.

I agree with you about warming up the water thru the tub spout, then turning the shower on before getting in. The slight bit of cold water in the vertical pipe will give you a nice wake up!

I wish it was for us, but our new tenant will enjoy the beautiful tub/shower door.

The seals extend up the glass to right below the top rod and roller wheel. So, the panel can slide without hitting any of the hardware above.

Front in the back and back in the front?

An easy hardware swap?

Wow, that's a good summary of the best way to cut stainless steel pipe.

And a good reason not to use a diamond grit tile bit to cut stainless steel. I knew there was a reason!

Thanks for sharing!

The pipe fitters in paper mills are always working with 304L and 316L pipe. When they cut, they use saw blades, like Lenox, but with a liberal application of cutting oil, it keeps the blades sharp and cuts faster. Didn't see that little detail mentioned anywhere. I use it to saw any kind of steel or alloy, if I can remember to bring it with me.

I have used pipe cutters of the hand turned type when I installed heaps of Stainless Steel pipe in power stations and coal mines. some of the pipe is hard drawn and almost impossible to bend while other is soft. The only thing to do is make sure the cutting wheel is sharp and if not touch it up with a grinder, a green stone for carbide bits works best and gives an excellent finish.

Unfortunately, I didn't have a pipe cutter for steel. It would've been much easier vs the jigsaw.

When I was installing the tub door kit, I had a few choices.

1. Jigsaw

2. Milwaukee 12V mini Sawzall

3. Oscillating tool.

I thought about the Oscillating tool, but I've had trouble cutting hard materials in the past. The blade is always sliding around.

So, I went with a carbide blade in the jigsaw.

A small tip for when you want the cut to be square slip a piece of pipe over the pipe to be cut off and clamp it solidly. Just grind to the edge and you get a nice finish. Here 1mm thick cutoff wheels are available for 100mm grinders or if you are a little rough handed 2mm or 3mm thick wheels are also readily available.

Even Poly pipe will do or if you are lucky like me just use the lathe to part the pipe off with a carbide tipped tool but then most people are not graced with a lathe or one with a big enough headstock bore to do what I do. To coin a Python phrase, "Luxury, Sheer Luxury!"

Stef, That's a great tip! I'll use it in the future. Thanks for sharing.

I would wrap the end with tape to protect the surface and use a pipe cutter for a great cut.

Years ago,when I worked in a machine shop,we had a reciprocating wet saw that had a 18 inch long 2"wide 1.8 inch thick blade made of solid Molybdenum.

It would cut through 8 inch solid round or square stock,regardless of type,even stainless.

Occasionally the blade would break,but more often that not,the break was caused by someone trying to force the cut too fast.

The broken blades made excellent gasket scrapers,and never dulled.

New plant manager decided that it would be cheaper to buy moly coated blades instead of solid ones,and that was the end of the line for the old reliable saw.

It was scrapped due to high replacement costs due to breakage of the "CHEAPER" blades.

I wish I had bought it from the scrap pile.

I have not seen one like it since.

They also had a pipe threader called the "Mule". The motor was at the bottom of a long enclosed drive shaft,that terminated to the outboard side of a large ring gear that housed the threading dies.It could thread 10 inch pipe.As the head turned,the motor at the bottom,which was on steel wheels,would walk back and forth,hence the name"Mule". It was slow,but it worked flawlessly for many years.It was over 60 years old in the '70's,but no one really knew exactly how old it was.

It was used for many years,and there were deep groves in the concrete floor from years of use.

It was built too well to be built now.Lasted too long.

1.8 --> 1/8 ??

1/8". Thanks for catching the typo.

Nice job. The door seems to be on the shower head side to me.

Late to the party, I use an angle grinder for 99% of my cutting, even though I have a band saw and metal cutting blades. I can take it to the job and the band saw only has a 10" throat clearance.

I usually cut stainless with a bimetallic bandsaw. I've got a dry cut saw, but the blades are over $100 each and I wouldn't want to risk it.

In this case, I probably would have just used a hacksaw with a good blade.

My local "Metal Mart" charges $1 per cut - I can't afford to buy a blade or a metal cutting band saw at those prices..

I have used a hand hacksaw with a good blade - it just takes time and sweat.

When I get fancy I chuck it in my lathe. - Cuts perfectly square - and then de-burr with a 45 deg tool. You can use cardboard between the jaws and the part to stop marking the finish. Be sure to support the outboard end or turn slow enough it does not whip.

I don't like the setup where you have to get into the tub to turn the water on....won't work for me....

When ever I am cutting stainless regardless of blade type, cutoff disc or even I pipe cutter (roller blades) I apply while cutting good old WD 40, for some reason this product with the fish oil makes drilling much easier and saves the cutting edge of the tool. This is especially true when drilling the bit has a very easy time and lasts many times longer between dressing. One caution is keep enough on the cutting edge to wet the sparks or you may get ignition especially using an abrasive disc.

I use this even on aluminum, copper, brass and other alloys that tend to pull in the bit.

Hi Roy,

Thanks for the tip. I use whatever oil is around. Sometimes it's from the dipstick of my car! No kidding!!

WD 40 and fish oil. I'll have to try that the next time I'm cutting metal.

What’s up guys.

I used to do custom railings and used just about every type of metal pipe there is. In my shop I used a cold saw to cut all our pipe including solid round stock. The blade on our cold saw resembles a circular saw blade made to cut thin plywood but is about 3/16 thick with a 14” dia. The blade was constantly being lubricated with a water soluble cutting oil. This is by far the best method I ever used to cut pipe and have minimal to no damage to finish. I know most people don’t have a cold saw in their tool arsenal but most railing/machine shops do and will most likely cut it for you at a fair price.

I never heard of a cold saw, so I looked it up. What a great saw! Yes, I could've had a machine shop cut the pipe and threshold for me.

Thanks for the tip!

Here are some updated pictures and info on what I did the next weekend to install the spacer for the bottom threshold. This time, I cut the stainless steel with a Sawzall and a DeWalt Bi-Metal bit.

Spacer installed

Trusty PC Sawzall with DeWalt blade installed

Close up of blade after cutting. It was an brand new blade. Seems to have survived.

For those who wanted to see the overlap and why water wouldn't escape, here are some better pics. The sweepers don't touch the glass on the other side, but with the amount of overlap, water can't escape, unless it's purposely shot into the gap. The shower head is fixed, so it shouldn't happen. It's a rental, so nothing is for sure, but they'd have to be trying to get the water out.

Note the amount of overlap when closed.

With sweepers on both panels, water will have a lot of trouble escaping.

Close up of sweepers

After looking at all the options, I think the best one would be.

1. Cut all pieces with a Sawzall and DeWalt Bimetal blades.

2. Install the shower door as I did, but push the door a little further out, so the guide would fit flat - currently it fits a little crooked due to the slope of the tub. It works, but would look better.

3. For a rental, the next time I think I'll use a standard door. This one took way too much time and the return on investment isn't as good as it should be. Prospective tenants won't choose my house based on a nice shower door - a nice, functional door would suffice.

4. You guys rock! Great ideas and again, I'm impressed by your knowledge and experience - from many diverse fields.

Thank you and everyone - please have a safe and Happy New Year!

A little note on cutting stainless steel:

SS tends to work-harden under pressure,so make certain that the drill bit or saw blade is moving before contact with the metal.

You will be surprised how much easier it is and how much longer tools last.

An old tinsmith showed me this trick many years ago and it has proven very useful over the years.

Thanks for the tip. I believe that all saws except for a Sawzall require the blade to be moving before attempting to make the cut. However a drill (not a drill press) can be used with no speed when first touching the metal.

I didn't know about the work hardening of stainless steel. That's great information.

You're a wealth of knowledge and I enjoy reading your posts!