Sealing Gaps in Deck Boards

I don't recommend doing that....the deck needs the ventilation to stay dry...mildew and algae growth could destroy the deck...The wasps won't bother you if you don't bother them...

https://southernhospitalityblog.com/under-deck-ceiling-system-install/

Backer Rod plus SS Scrubber Pads

Yep. Backer rod punctuated every so often with stainless steel scrubber pad coils pulled out until they form a long thin cylinder which you can stuff in between the boards. Punctuate the backer rod segments with stainless ribbon coils. Then moisture can equalize on both sides of the deck boards and larger pests(wasps, mice, roaches,..) are deterred. Note that ants, gnats, etc. will still pass if they are determined.

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thewildotter

While Backer rod might seem a good idea ( and it did get a #4 good answer ) , it does not contain a uv inhibitor and within a relatively short amount of time will break down. So all the time and materials spent will be wasted.

So true, the sun kills just about anything that doesn't depend upon photosynthesis. Perhaps a little dab of paint when installed? It would be an extra step of course and one would want to try to match the deck boards, or maybe just a shade darker.

You might want to try one of these fake wasp nests, evidently wasps are territorial and won't build a nest where another is near...I've never tried it...

You might also try nailing a screen beneath the deck, but I've never tried that either...I guess you could lay screen over the top of the deck and install 1/2" thick treated or plastic wood planks over the original boards... I've never tried that either....but at least it would be serviceable...

Any idea if it works for the paper wasps? The ones that make a cone shaped nest...

Click on the picture and read the reviews from users is what I usually do, with some caution...surely somebody has asked this question though....for $10 it might be worth a shot...I just keep a couple of cans of wasp killer around...or spray glue...

Just bought the spray lol going to spray them in the morning. They started a tiny cone under the deck

Happy hunting!

If spraying in the morning, do so before the first rays of sun come out.

These creatures are early risers. Blast 'em whilst sleeping in their paper house.

Place a bucket or spread some paper under... they will drop like the proverbial flies.

I have had good results with just water and soap, since I heard about a crew treating "Africanized killer bees" that way. The soap reduces the water surface tension, so they just drown.

Safer and cheaper.

For white faced hornets I would reach for a can of spray.

The cone eventually turns into a football-shaped nest similar to the fake one in the photo, as the wasps build it out fully. It only starts as a little cone of a few cells. The football encloses the whole colony after some of the offspring mature and add to the nest.

I get the hebegebees just looking at that. :)

Hunt stinging flying insects after the sun goes down or when its cold.

They wont fly far without the sun to navigate, and can't fly when it's cold

So it would seem you need some sort of band to fill in the Gap and a bomb for the bugs.

Here you go.

1. Why do you want to remove the wasps?
2. Have they attacked you, your family or your pets?
3. If they did was it because they perceived you attacking them?
4. Wasps are predators and they predate on all sorts of other bug and larva creatures.
5. Do you keep a garden? Because killing or blocking the wasps will remove your first line of natural defense to your garden. This is especially true if you grow vegetables. No wasps means veggies dowsed in insecticide.
6. We live in Houston, which means we live in a plant eating insect Heaven. We have an old fashioned covered front porch and yes we have muddauber wasps. We also have lemon and orange citrus trees that give great big crops. We have never had ANY insect problems with them or used even an ounce of insecticide.
7. My next door neighbor has tomatoes, uses the exact same insect defense strategy and right now is having a bumper crop.

We live in a townhouse. So no garden. Our "backyard" is just a deck, with a paved area under the deck. The wasps are building nests under my deck and in areas along my roofline, so anytime we walk on the deck, they fly out.

I have 2 young boys (under 5yrs old) and they like to run on the deck, and that scares the wasps and they start flying around them.

I have a serious phobia of wasps and bees. My parents and brother are severely allergic, and I've never been stung (usually because I scream and run away lol) but I dont want to risk them being around my kids.

We have a few carpenter bees as well, but I'm used to those. They never seen to bother us, the wasps in the other hand seem to dive bomb is just for being on the deck (BBQing, playing on the boys water table, ect)

Don't do it! trapping the water below the deck boards will cause rot in the structural parts of the deck. Spent $23,000 to repair the damage caused by just such approach by the previous owner. There are waterproof membrane roofing products that are designed to be walked on. But the slope of the existing deck will have to be changed to allow for proper drainage. All in all, it is going to be expensive and unless done by someone who has done this kind of work before, it will be temporary (3 -5 years even with treated lumber).

Thw roof that is being put under the deck is being installed at a slope, and will drain into a rain gutter... to there will be no water pooling under the boards.

What I'm worried about is sealing te gaps on the deck boards so wasps can get in between the deck boards and roof system, and make nests

After seeing the picture I think your worries may be over blown. Wasps need ventilation and wide access to the nest opening. The area between the new roofing and existing deck will be very close with no air flow and trapped heat and will not be as inviting to wasps as the wide open airy space under your deck they enjoy now. I have a similar arrangement and have ants in the space you worry about but no wasps. If anything my gaps are too small so they fill up and don't allow enough debris to fall through so the ants have shelter.

I do have wasps in the open area just beyond the gutter and under the stairs up to my deck where it is relatively open. In those spaces the wasp spray can be effective.

Good luck.

Wasps won't build nests where there are high light levels. If you fit strips of mirror to shine sun light between the deck boards and the corrugated sheeting it ceases to be an ideal habitat and removes any need to seal the gaps.

Corrugated tin under the deck. Slope so the water flows outward to the gutter.overlap 6 inch gutter with and inch or two of tin. caulk area of overlap with a good grad urethane caulk,such a sikaflex product. The backing rod suggested is simply that.It is closed cell but it is not waterproof nor is it resistant at all to ultra violet sunlight,nor is it in anyway abrasion proof.It will be ate up by the sun within a few days and no paint will prevent sand and debris from eroding it.It is almost impossible to caulk pressure treated wood do to the oils used to treat it.

Leave the gaps.drop down an inch or two and place your tin.Tin works well on roofs

and likewise will work well on this project.In addition you can choose your ceiling color and easily change it with acrylic paint.

You could just replace the wooden deck and go with a tongue and groove plastic composite board update eliminating the need for gaps in the first place...

!, Vent the underside of the deck,

2, Use a gunnerble sealer between the boards, silicon or similar, like a boat deck, it will allow the boards to expand and contract.

Go ahead caulk that deck. In a month or less you will be looking for the source of that leak.

He's Putting a roof over it!

and the wind blowing in water under the roof?

He's putting a roof over it!

and the wind blown water under the roof?

I have had much success in eliminating rodents and insects with a Ozone generator placed in the area for an hr. or so. Since ozone is heaver than air it will fall through the floor spaces and cause concern to the insects causing them to leave for friendlier places. If the area was enclosed it would probably be a slam dunk. I use a 5000 ML/HR unit for large areas works on just about everything and with some techniques can clean up bed bugs and roaches. Rodents leave the area as well odors are eliminated quickly.

Note not to be used in occupied areas, people, pets, plants also detrimental to fine art. Use common sense.

What does it do to 'fine art'..?

It degrades the pigment similar to direct light, I have no experience but a professional exterminator passes this on to me.

..."Can ozone damage anything within our home, RV or vehicle?

Ozone is relatively safe to use, especially if conducted by trained and certified ozone shock technicians. Ozone reacts with pure rubber, pure silver, elastic and oil paintings. To err on the side of caution it is best to be proactive, we suggest bagging or removing oil paintings, elastic clothing, silver jewelry and rubber hoses & items. We have never had an issue during any of the treatments we have conducted thus far because we take these extra precautions to avoid damage."...

https://boccinspections.com/faq-ozone/#:~:text=Can%20ozone%20damage%20anything%20within,silver%2C%20elastic%20and%20oil%20paintings.

When you generate ozone 25 minutes after your timer shuts it off there is no ozone left just the oxygen you used to make the ozone. I am involved in this oxygen process mostly in odors and pests control. Ozone and rubber, if you look at your tires or search for this data there is a code on the tire for date of manufacturer, It is recommended that the tires not be used past the 6 th year, I may stand corrected, this is due to ozone damaging the sidewall.

In some countries ozone is used medically, I understand they take out 1/2 liter of blood ozonate this and put it back to treat specific pathogens. Same goes for H2O2 and same for Chlorine Dioxide all three are oxygen therapies.

One customer had a skunk spray out side his mothers bedroom window and it took less than 20 seconds to remove the air from that room, they then did the hallway and back to bed. I have many reports of odor, pest and mold removal. The ozone from the toy train was interesting I will keep it in mind for story telling.

I would suggest that using ozone to rid your house or bedroom of bed bugs the concerns of any possible damage to colours would take a back seat to the death of the bed bugs. Same for mold since it can seriously have negative impact on your well being. Remember ozone only lasts about 25 minutes after shut down.

Bleach Gas

Ozone is a bleach. When I was a small child, my electric train set bleached out all the exposed textiles in our "living room" containing my model train yard that I inherited from my railroad machinist grandfather. Deep brown curtains became variegated tan curtains. We started calling it RoundHouse Brown. A study in gradients.

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thewildotter

If you see wasps,borer bees etc.just buy a can of insect fogger ,turn it upside down and release it in the holes between any board you want. No more wasps.

I would recommend getting a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet and tack it at the corners to the deck. It is pourous so water will drain through and it will breathe so your deck won't rot. It will hold up to the UV rays from the sun. It's also fairly inexpensive.

Bonus...wasps can't get through.