Remove the Dashboard!

https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/electrical/sensors-and-when-to-replace-them/#:~:text=O2%20sensor%20failures%20can%20be,worn%20rings%20or%20valve%20guides).

https://www.corral.net/threads/can-you-clean-out-o2-sensors-with-carb-cleaner-can-they-be-cleaned-at-all.76145/

https://www.weathertech.com/lampgard/?gclid=CjwKCAjw88v3BRBFEiwApwLevVsh-eTNlyZ1SmiymFopr9KL4lZfjYoIJ9BEi4nYDnMZ6TCLzfOpwRoCPyQQAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084RQKLV8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?pd_rd_i=B084RQKLV8&pd_rd_w=ZWv9x&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=UsLeq&pf_rd_r=H5NJM139SWHP36K1G0VZ&pd_rd_r=d92aa33a-2dac-48f5-9637-6febace1e928&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFOWEVVOTFZTU1YTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRJZD1BMDEzMjcyN1pTTzIwMVFBNktCSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDMzOTI5M0dESURZUExJWUlCMCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

that looks too good to be true!

I'll let you know I just bought the kit....

Sounds good..looks good, smells good,I wonder what it tastes like,thought the fish as he went for the worm.

Dam! He said when he ran into the concrete wall.

Not saying their claims are false,just would like to see reviews from an earlier year about the longevity of the product.

All of the reviews I saw were from 2020.

I have seen a method where you clean the lens,wipe it with acetone and Walla! Like new! Then coat with with clear coat and you are all set.The acetone melts the top layer of the plastic and removes oxidation.

The question I have is not in the appearance,but in the durability of the clear coat.

Here is a link to a (supposedly) super durable clear coat:https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html

So,what type of clear coat do they use on highway signs?

This would probably be very tough.I would like this on my headlights.

It was as step backwards when they went to plastic lenses.

I have a 1959 Ford 150 Pickup truck with the original headlights in it.

NO yellowing whatsoever!

I know they did it to save weight,but what price weight when the visibility declines with age and can become a safety issue?

Durability!? it has ceramic!

good eye on the 2020 reviews.

It probably works a treat, but just to mix it up we can play out the pepsi challenge.

I'll give acetone/ prep and ceramic infused spray paint a go.

My headlamps are beginning to look like turn indicators, so the fine kit might be too much.

With the home version, I'll have enough for the tail lights too.

Here is another method that may work:

https://www.instructables.com/id/The-30-sec-Headlight-Restoration/

how to clean o2 sensor.

and there's a lot more where that came from.

I didn't know about the lens stickers(makes sense for a new car), but i saw this on a huge interstate billboard.. and thought ... reallyweathertech? really?

I have no doubt that you can clean the O2 sensor... the question is, does it do any good?

The answer... maybe, maybe not...if you have the time to waste and are willing to, then sure why not...but the manufacturer does recommend changing the oxygen sensors at regular intervals....and the catalytic converter that it protects can be expensive...I would be sure to test them properly after cleaning to see if any improvement was realized...confidence low

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Replacement-Oxygen-Sensors/b?ie=UTF8&node=15730891

Note that there's a pre cat O2 sensor and a post cat - upstream and downstream. On a V6, there are two sets, bank 1 and bank 2.

The upstream sensor checks the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. After it gets cleaned in the cat, the downstream sensor measures the oxygen level. The computer compares the two and verifies that the cat is working. If it isn't, you get a CEL. Or you could have a bad O2 sensor, but that typically throws a different code. You can also check levels on your scan tool to see if one of the sensors is bad, or it's a cat.

Some advice:

1. O2 sensor can be cleaned, but it isn't permanent. O2 sensors get ablated (I finally get to use that word) and the coating wears off. There's a chance that the sensor gets coated with sooty stuff and can be cleaned, but if that happens, there's something wrong mechanically. An O2 sensor is a maintenance item that needs to be changed when it goes bad. Changing at a set number of miles is like changing shock absorbers at 40K miles - just because the manufacturer tells you it needs to be done. Driving a car with a bad O2 sensor will cause the motor to run rich or lean. Rich isn't good, but lean can damage a motor. If it's a turbo or supercharged motor, lean can blow holes in the piston, burn valves, etc. If you're going to change an O2 sensor, but the correct socket. It has a line cut out, where the wire goes through. Or you could take an impact socket and cut a slice to run the wire through. And use anti-seize when installing!

2. Cleaning headlights. I've done it this way for years. If the lens isn't too bad, I use a DA polisher with an orange foam pad and Meguiars M100 or M105 (cut level 10). If it still leaves a bad spot, I hit it with some wet dry paper (400 to 3000 depending on the damage), then polish. I then tape off the area and spray with a clear coat. Voila! Looks like new! Someone told me about a SiO2 coating to use in place of clear coat. I have a few bottles of SiO2 that I'm going to test. Much easier than clear coat spray.

3. I have a car that has "scuttle" hoses from the grille over the cowl to the rear of the front fender well. The manufacturer ran the hoses thru the interior of the car. When I wash the car or drive through rain (or I forget to cover it before a rain), the floorpan gets flooded! Terrible design, but this company is known for doing some pretty strange things. The scuttle hose looks like an internal washing machine hose (shiny gray accordion type). I was going to order a new hose from a parts store across the ocean, but someone on the forum told me to use a 2000 era Honda Civic radiator hose and trim to fit. I have two of the hoses, but I haven't done the work yet. It's on my laundry list.

Here's a funny one. I don't change my own oil anymore. For $20 (conventional), $35 synth blend or $45 full synth, it makes no sense for me to do it myself.

I typically do my own brake work. Pads are a no brainer and I save $85 labor. Rotors are a little more work, but saves me even more. Shoes are a little tougher and I tend to stretch the springs, but I do them. Master cylinder isn't tough, but it takes a little time to bleed. Changing calipers (I don't rebuild them myself), brake lines (hard and soft) and proportioning valves are things I do.

Transmission work is messy and I leave that to the pros. I have a couple cars that need new synchros - I may tackle those jobs when I have time. Automatics I don't mess with.

Body work - I did it in the past and I'll do paint correction and maybe parts swapping. A little paint work too and touch up I'm good with. Respraying a car - I haven't done it in 20+ years, but I'm planning to paint one of my restoration projects. Color sand, buff, wax - good with doing these things if I have time.

Swap axles - okay with it. Suspension work - I'll do everything except struts - I did it once and I will now leave that to the pros. Shocks are no problem. Clutch work - I haven't done one in years, but I'm okay doing it. AC stuff is for the pros. I just cleaned, stripped and painted a fuel tank. And I've done many fuel pumps, filters and fuel lines. CEL emissions stuff I've done - depends on the code. Engine gaskets - I don't like doing it, but I will. Coolant, radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, etc - no problem. Exhaust I hate - I don't like getting rust in my face/hair! Tires are done at the shop. Stereo stuff I'm good with. And electrical I don't worry about. Bearings - sometimes I'll do it and sometimes I'll have the shop fix it. Glass - side windows, regulators, mirrors - no problem. Windshield or back window is for the pros.

Engine work - the last one I sent to the shop. It was an engine swap I didn't want to mess with. Many years ago, I did a motor swap on an Accord. I actually did two Accords. Rebuilt a small block Chevy motor many years ago. Did head work on a Pontiac 350 - those are heavy heads. Same for a Chrysler 413 CI Wedge. We pulled the motor and the bottom end didn't need anything - at 148K miles!!

I guess most of the jobs I decide based on time, money and my free time.

I'm interested to hear what the other guys here do!

Well,just remember you asked for it :

I replaced my first axle when I was 12 years old;1950 Ford with a flat head V8.

First complete front end body replacement on a 51 Chevy at 13 yrs old.

Complete brake job at at 13.

When you are poor you learn the hard way.

Trial and error and lots of head knots.

Over the years,my skill set has increased according to need.

Learned to stick weld at 14,not really good,but adequate.

Finally went to welder classes in my mid-20's and learned how to do it right.

Got state certification..was going to go work on Alaskan Pipeline,but glad I didn't.

My life took a different course.

Got married.

Got associate degree in electronics.

Worked as a electrician apprentice, worked and learned my way up,then after 7 years,sat for and passed the state exam for Unlimited electrical classification.

Reciprocal license in 7 states.

Started my own company.

Did a lot of work for Uncle Sam, on military bases,as well as shopping malls,industrial plants,even 1 nuclear plant.

Had to learn hydraulics and pneumatics because of expanding into process control systems.

Pneumatics were superseded by digital,so had to learn centralized computer digital controls as well as distributed controllers.

Installed and specified controls at potable water plants, process water plants, waste treatment plants,tri-fuel and coal fired boiler rooms with steam co-generators.It became necessary to learn several computer programming languages to compete with the newer companies.Had to learn Pascal,Basic, Fortran,Cobol, and several other proprietary languages.F-Tran comes to mind,by Fischer Porter;Had one way compilers.If a program you wrote didn't run,you could not de-compile and examine,you just had to figure it out.No error codes. A real tough school-of-hard-knocks,but eventually you learned their particular idiosyncrasies and it became easier.Same with some other proprietary languages.

Not an expert in any of them,but adequate to trouble shoot to differentiate between hardware/software problems.With machines becoming more sophisticated,it is sometimes difficult to determine.

Learned how to tune PID controllers.Not required now,most will self tune.

Also made a couple of dune buggies.Cut 13 inches or so out of the frame,and shortened the shift tube and cables and wiring.

Installed pref-fab fiberglass body on frame.

A real joy to drive on beach.Could not stick that little sucker!

Since you have worked on VW's you probably know the easiest way to adjust valves in to turn the motor in reverse.Then the adjusting sequence beomes1-2-3-4.No need to go side-to-side.

Have totally rebuilt V8's,6's,4's ,manual trannies, auto trans valve bodies,farm tractors,backhoes,motorcycles, (My son rode competitive Motocross) both 2 cycle and 4 stroke engines.

Been one helluva interesting ride,but now I am retired(more Tired than RE ).

Don't even do my own oil changes anymore.Too hard to get up and down.

I pay for my yard work,but I refuse to let a dealership work on my car.No way.

Timing belt?Water Pump? No problem.That is a DIY for me.It hurts,but it is worth it.

I had rather bend over under the hood for myself than to bend over for a dealership.

I buy new,and the vehicle never sees the dealer again except for recalls.Even then,they will try to tell you something else is wrong.

I just tell them thanks for the info,and I will check it out myself.

I always dress down when going in for a recall.. 2 day beard..bib overalls with dried egg yolk and grease stains,a CAT cap, untied,scuffed,dusty Brogans-- bulge of cotton balls in cheek,looks like a chaw of 'baccer,and an exaggerated southern drawl.

Boy do they get red-faced when they can't pull the wool over an old redneck's eyes!

Well,it is about beer-thirty,and I am getting thirsty..gotta feed that Milwaukee tumor.

WOW! I'm fully ablated (I finally get to use that word) by you catalog of mechanical accomplishments.

Congratulations for your dogged determination through all of it.

I'm impressed and a little jealous of the stories related by Autobroker as well as the rest of the 10 minute oils change crowd. (it is a good deal.. so long as they don't sell you wiper blade too!)

Good stories and good tips.. A good portion of having the confidence to dive into a project is knowing that one of your peers was able to muscle through it.

Isn't it funny how people don't want to change their own oil anymore? I stopped changing my oil way back in the late 80's. My ex told me that my time was worth much more, so let the oil change place do the work. She also told me that it's good for the economy - send the car to Econo Lube and Tune - let them make a little money and maybe they'll come to our store to buy a gift, etc.

I don't go to the quickie oil change places anymore. I had two problems at Jiffy Lube, many years ago (the Simi Valley store).

The first was my Volvo 960 wagon. An overweight guy sat on the edge of the seat to check the miles and the tray on the side cracked! He got up and saw that it was broken. He told me he'd order the part and get it fixed. A week or so later I get a call. I bring the car in and he pulls out the part. Genuine Volvo part in the box! Then he takes it out and it's the wrong part. The one they purchase is for manual seats - only a tray. I told him it was the wrong part, but he wanted his "mechanic" to try to replace it. 30 minutes later, this poor kid lets him know that its the wrong part! Wow!! He told me he'd order the correct part and let me know when it's in. No call for weeks, so I call him back. No part yet! I called the local Volvo dealer and they have the part. Price was over $200. I called Jiffy Lube and he said he'd get it. Weeks later, no part. I asked to speak to the corporate office. The guy told me that the part was already broken when it came in. He also told me that his employees are trained to sit on the seat, so this doesn't happen. I told him I was standing right there when I heard the crack. They refused to pay!

Final problem: My Jaguar XJ went in for her normal oil change. Unfortunately, they over tightened the drain bolt and stripped the threads. When it was time for the next oil change, he told me that the bolt was stripped and it couldn't be taken off. I looked him straight in the eyes and I said "You were the last one's to touch the car! You stripped it, so you fix it!" After some apologies, he took my name and number and promised to call back when the parts were in. A few days later I get a call - we can't fix your stripped bolt, because we don't know if someone else might have done it. Yes, he said this. I asked for the corporate number. I called and demanded they fix it. Same response, so I told them that I deliver vehicles to 40-50 clients a month and every one will know that Jiffy Lube is not the place to bring their car. I hung up on the guy!

Since then, my car hasn't been to a quick lube place. They hire anyone off the street. Most don't understand why you don't over tighten an oil drain bolt. Particularly on an aluminum oil pan!

Wow, that is awesome! A different story for me; at 12, I was ... well ... I shoveled snow in the winter to earn some fun money and ... I helped my dad do stuff in the garage and ... I changed/patched inner tubes on my bike.

I think it's great that you learned all those things at such a young age. I bet it's been a huge help for you during your life. I didn't do much with cars until I bought my first at 16. Yes, I watched dad work on the family cars and it was good, but it wasn't until I bought my own that I did work myself. Dad helped me with some of the repairs on my car - it was a good bonding thing for us.

I'm in 100% agreement about letting a dealership fix my car. The labor rate is outrageous here. Though I had a pleasant surprise a few years ago when I brought my old C230 in for a "key won't turn" problem. The local dealer changed a fuse and gave me a $5 invoice! Imagine that! I paid the invoice and waited for my car to arrive. And waited, and waited. The porter came by and told me the key won't turn. The fuse blew again - the motor which allows the lock cylinder to turn was going bad, thus using too much current and blowing the fuse. A couple hundred dollars later, the key worked.

I will correct myself - I took my car to the Toyota dealer about a year ago for an oil changed. $49 for synthetic oil, filter, top off fluids. The car had 20K miles, so I figure they couldn't hit me with too much "recommended" items.

A little time saving tip about bleeding brakes,which you probably already know,but others may benefit:

Attach the bleeder fitting to a small rubber hose,and immerse the hose in a container of brake fluid.Open the bleeder,and pump the pedal a few times.The fluid in the container prevents air from getting back into the system.Do this on all bleeders and you are finished very quickly.No need for an extra person to pump the brake pedal.

Yes, great tip. Also, a one man brake bleeded kit works wonders. The one with the hand pump. https://www.harborfreight.com/Brake-Bleeder-and-Vacuum-Pump-Kit-63391.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMzk2NjU5NjciLCJza3UiOiI2MzM5MSIsImlzIjoiMTcuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTIyNDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A&cid=paid_google|||63391&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid=CjwKCAjwxev3BRBBEiwAiB_PWHuZTzy0Vs50MxaD6Xw4HhN4Nh2HgHbcQl8LbBWa3zE5P2PT50USwxoCiGgQAvD_BwE

I have only ever replaced the O2 sensors when the code on the OBDC says it has failed due to heater fail.

Having worked in power stations where the O2 sensors were 4 ft long and had a heater that heated the sensor, zirconium, to 750 deg C and the most prevalent failure was in the heating element going open circuit or rarely a zirconium element getting damaged during shutdown by a misdirected gorilla blow so they were removed pre shutdown and installed post close up.

Now "Remove the Dashboard!" brings back memories of the sudden erratic indication of the tachometer on my old Nissaan Patrol. So being a solder monkey and having read on internet of problems with the dash panel I did just that ,Remove the Dashboard!

The culprit was dry joints in the solder connections and being thorough I resoldered every joint on the PC board dash and all gauges have worked ever since. The indication of dry joints is the colour of the solder which is crazed or dull grey and if it is removed with a solder sucker and new solder applied you have it fixed. One little quirk is that the tacho has a small reverse control voltage on the terminals so if the pointer is put on with the dash depowered then when the motor is started the reading is wrong so turn the power on and apply the pointer and no more erratic readings.

When I was 20 I turned a VW beetle into a fibreglass bodied Myers Manx beach buggy, chopping and welding and cobbling together. With only the removal of some connections, motor mount bolts and the motor could be taken out worked on while sitting on the bench. Like wise I had a Holden (GM) Monaro which I had solid lifters in. So the tappet clearance could be checked while eating lunch at home before going back to work.

Having spent all my life pulling electrical and mechanical things apart and getting it wrong sometimes it is all part of the learning curve, which sometimes is flat, out that is! Now I content myself with tractors and earth moving machinery, old and tired, like me all in need of spanner twirling to keep them going. Machines are a lot more forgiving than women so don't be afraid to get it a bit wrong when working on them.

The only thing I won't work on is an automatic transmission, everything else is fair game including hydraulic motors, AC systems, drive trains, brakes, clutches. I have pulled many an automatic apart as a source of gears or smelting aluminium and have found many with maybe a broken spring on a ball valve or a clogged oil passage.

Metal work is just like icing on a cake for hiding things best unseen. It can be beaten into shape and having done cable jointing with lead wiping of cable glands, doing a proper job with lead filler is a breeze if not a little tricky but fireproof finger are soon created, forget that plastic stuff, that is for bog shops.

I just need to know for myself.

it appears that getting fouled would be easy.. over time.

A water pick of gas for a final flush?

If the zirconium coating is OK and the reference resistance is OK?

We shall see. I'll post about it again some day.

That Meyers Manx is worth a little money now!

Good to hear all the things you're comfortable working on. The garage is our lab!

Here is a shot of my 98 Lincoln Town Car when I was fixing the blend door.

Looks like you've unleashed the kraken there.

I have a heat issue that only affects those on the passenger side, but I believe it to be the core and not the door.

either way.. it's just about enough trouble to make me want to go old school cool.. or .. hot rather..

.. but not really.

I'll get in there.. Before winter?

I have an Alfa Spider that needs a heater core and heater fan replaced. If you're ever in town, I'd be glad to let you work on my car.

I find it amazing that they build cars around the heater system. Many years ago, I had a blower motor go bad on my Volvo 242. It took me an entire day, scraped up hands and arms, but I was able to change the motor.

Let us know how the Lincoln turns out.

Remove the dashboard?

Ug. Did that one time. My 67 Gt350 had the usual Mustang rotted wind box. Really bad design, even worse execution. and coupled to a cardboard heater box to boot. Almost impossible to repair.

never again.

JE I have used WD40 to clear up hazy headlamps. Works well although temporary.

I often wonder what type of work others here feel comfortable doing versus what goes into the shop.

The answer for me has changed over the years. When I was young and limber and poor, I would tackle anything I knew how to do and some things I didn't. Now, older and wiser and less limber and with a little more money in the bank, I'll take it in and let someone else get dirty, support the economy and let the next guy make a buck.

Same here...I'll only work on the car if necessary to get out of a jam...but in the old days I would do everything, even an engine swap...I once had to pull and replace the radiator, fan blade and water pump sitting in a 7/11 parking lot, out of a dodge van....I was amazed nobody ever said anything as it took a couple of days...

As long as you buy a Slurpee, day old hot dogs. lotto tickets and half dried out donuts, they'll be happy to let you work there. Good story!

Most importantly, you know if the guy is padding his wallet.

Many, many years ago, I was told that I need to learn how things work. Not because I'm going to fix it, but in the event I hire someone to do the work, I'll know if what he's saying makes sense. Sometimes, the tech may be honest, but he doesn't understand how things actually work, so he'll do a bit of parts swapping or guessing. My wallet doesn't like that!