Cleaning Tiny Gears Inside Sewing Machine

Ok. Thank you.

...and re-lubricate afterwards. GA

Absolutely perfect, I use it all the time but for really stubborn waxy grease I use carb and throttle body cleaner but watch out on paintwork.

A few years back, during WD40 discussions, it was pointed out that cleaning when you have a bearing race must be done differently than cleaning if everything is exposed (gears, etc.). An important part of cleaning is not leaving behind a solvent or cleaner that will interact with the new grease.

People often clean gears in their garage with WD40 (it was handy), wipe them dry, and then reinstall them with grease. Some people would not like this, but it works.

Years ago, a CR4 thread included that many shops that work on aircraft will ban WD40 from the facility. The reason, sooner or later someone will clean off a bearing race with WD40. Some of the WD40 will remain in the race and cause a bearing failure later. Since improper use of solvents caused the failure, it will be "unpredictable" and "unexpected" in the statistical maintenance and life cycle of the aircraft.

I like Marvel mystery oil. Cleans and lubricates nicely. I use a mix of marvel and 30 weight as an assembly lube. It mixes well with other oils and will be gone after the first oil change. In an engine it also burns out cleanly during break-in. It has always been my go to for freeing stuck pistons in engines that have been sitting for a while such as my 1967 Johnson 9 1/2 (3 years sitting) and my 1992 Johnson 30 that sat for five years, both outside.

I bought an old 1960's Ford tractor and the hour meter is usually locked up because of hardened grease.This one was perfect and working fine.I asked the original owner what he did to make it last so long.He said that he washed out all of the original factory grease and filled it with GE Long Life Grease.It has been in there for over 50 years and not hardened yet.I opened the hour meter to check it and it was like new.

One problem with hardening of grease is caused by over filling.The grease has to have some place to go.If not,it will churn and heat up causing oxidation and aging of the grease.Always leave room for the grease to move

The GE grease has the consistency of Vaseline,and is what GE put in all of their sealed ball bearings.

I bought some of the grease back then,and it was in a tube like toothpaste,and I use it on all my small gears,like rod and reels and it is a once-and-done process. You might want to try it,if you can find it.

Try this site https://www.ebay.ca/itm/155983336713.I found it there but it is in a 1 pound can.

I asked Chat GPT

Is there a modern equivalent of "GE long life grease"

ChatGPT said:

The modern equivalent of GE Long Life Grease, particularly if you're referring to GE's older D6-A2C5 specification, is typically a standard lithium-based NLGI 2 grease. This type of grease is mineral oil-based and includes antioxidants and anti-wear additives. A good quality motor or roller bearing grease with similar characteristics would work well as a replacement.

For example, greases like Mobilith SHC 100 or Mobilith SHC 220 are often recommended for similar applications, offering modern formulations that are compatible with electric motor bearings. It is crucial to ensure that the grease used meets the same specifications, especially regarding temperature and pressure tolerances, and is compatible with existing lubricants in your system​

Make sure to clean out the old grease thoroughly before applying the new one to avoid compatibility issues.

I found this:-

That's about $6.50 for half a kilogram (plus you need to buy several to get the delivery to a reasonable fraction of the cost).

Because I'm stupid, I'm tempted to buy a few cans even though I don't have a use for it at the moment.

You might find a similar deal your side of the pond.

Thank You everyone.

The Brake Cleaner and Carb Cleaner worked very well.

I had to change a small part and that led me to stripping the serger down to a place I had never been before.After 20 years of cleaning this machine I discovered a hidden set of micron screen filters that were totally blocked. The machine was so well designed that only the 1 filter I knew of, was working to keep it running.

All clean. Re-oiled.

Thank you all

Maybe look up "JUKI" machines and lubricants. They make amongst other things sewing machines, but my experience with them was for equipment for surface mount PWBs.

My mum used "sewing machine oil" for the gears and such in her machines. Thin oil, somewhere between kerosene and WD20. Simply wipe away current excess (winding machine over by hand to access all gear faces) and then apply fresh clean oil.