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Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/22/2008 8:29 PM

When I was a kid, had been told not to keep turning lights on and off, on and off, as there is a boost in electrical usage when you turn on a light or appliance. Is this still true? If so, in order to save energy, would a surge protector help?

Had an energy saver bulb fry recently. It was in the basement. Last time that happened to me was also in a basement in the 70s. An old-fashioned fuse became a round amber ball. The smell of ozone would knock your socks off. Would a surge protector at the main switch-box help prevent this occurrence?

Thank you. Joankelsy

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#1

Re: Surge

01/22/2008 10:01 PM

Well a surge protector is only going to offer protection against voltage transients. What you are describing is inrush current when the light switches on. As for any light (energy saving or otherwise) they mostly fail at turn on (it is generally the most stressful time for devices). There is generally not a great deal you can do about it with regard to lights, although it should not be a major problem unless you are rapidly switching a light on and off in a short time, or are switching it on and off a lot.

Just one of those things.

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#2

Re: Surge

01/22/2008 10:37 PM

Hello Joankelsy,

Your question has two parts.

a)Will switching OFF and ON the lights ,consume more energy? the answer is No.

When we switch say a flourescent tube the current is more during the switching time which is very small and negligible in the larger context of running time of lights.

A light which is OFF when it is not required is the biggest saver.

b) A surge protector wil protect the lights from voltage surges but will not save energy.

Hope that helps.

Good luck

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#3

Re: Surge

01/23/2008 12:35 AM

Hello Joankelsy

1. Inrush current to a tungsten filament lamp (the ordinary lamp) is 5x = 5 times the running current of that same lamp, once the filament is up to temperature.

So, if you switch it on/off/on/off/on/off rapidly, the filament expands/contracts/expands/contracts/expands/contracts at the time it most vulnerable = the switch-on cycle.

That is why most lamps fail, often with a flash, during the switch-on period = about 1/10th of a second after switch-on.

2. Energy-saving lamps are not really "Energy-Saving" when the extra costs of materials, manufacture, and disposal of the failed lamp are taken into account.

Sure they use less electricity, for more light, but the cheapest overall lamp cost is the standard old-fashioned tungsten filament lamp.

3. "Surge Protectors" are normally set to short-circuit the outlet and trip the circuit breaker/blow the fuse, once a Voltage in excess of 1.8 times the peak mains voltage has more than a half-cycle of mains.

This "Surge Protector" is used to save expensive electronic apparatus, Computers, DVD Players, VCR's, Stereos, TV etc. - Not for any other reason, and it will not protect a lamp.

Kind Regards....

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#4
In reply to #3

Re: Surge

01/23/2008 1:13 AM

The on/off/on/off/on/off in quick succession increases the temperature beyond its capacity of insulation/melting temperature limit thereby damaging the equipment.

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#11
In reply to #4

Re: Surge

01/24/2008 6:06 AM

No, not really. As has been stated when turning on an incandescent bulb there is a large inrush of current known as "tungsten in-rush". This is because the resistance of the cold tungsten is actually up to 1/10th the hot resistance. Also remember the way an incandescent bulb works is to get so hot as to give off life so turning a bulb on and off very quickly will not cause it to get any hotter then a bulb left on. In fact almost all light dimmers do this. A light dimmer actually turns a bulb on and off 120 times a second, one on/off cycle in each half wave of the 60Hz signal. (100 times a second for 50Hz applications)

As an incandescent bulb ages bits of tungsten come off the filament causing narrow spots. These narrow spots become weak points because their resistance is higher (smaller conductor). When you turn on a cold bulb and get the tungsten in-rush the weak spot fails and the filament breaks. The amount of the inrush varies by where in the half cycle the switch is made. At the peak of line its obviously worse and at the zero cross its better as the filament begins to heat immediately. Depending on bulb size the filament will heat to normal temperature (and resistance) in about 5 line cycles give or take. Turning a hot bulb on has less in-rush as the filament is somewhere between its low and high resistance levels.

FYI, this is why dimmers that fade up and down dramatically increase bulb life because they never put full voltage across the bulb until it has been warmed up thus decreasing the effect of the tungsten inrush.

Shawn

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#15
In reply to #11

Re: Surge

01/24/2008 7:39 AM

Here are the "Bits" you are speaking about.

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#21
In reply to #15

Re: Surge

01/24/2008 5:23 PM

Could you please explain what bits are and how the picture explains it?

Regards;

Nadeem

01242008

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#19
In reply to #11

Re: Surge

01/24/2008 11:31 AM

And I had always thought it was a mechanical failure caused by rapid thermal expansion/contraction that caused the filament to fatigue and break.

I have heard several "old wives" tales about light bulbs lasting 50, 60 or 70 years of continuous "on" duty. The filament reaches a steady hot position and does not flex due to on-off cycling was the story I always heard.

Anyway, occasionally I see (in the US) 130v rated incadescnt light bulbs. These are a bit more expensive with brass instead of aluminum bases, but work will in nuisance areas where you don't want to be changing light bulbs.

Nice post and some very fascinating replies!

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#20
In reply to #4

Have Times Changed? Re: Surge

01/24/2008 3:10 PM

...to keep turning lights on and off, on and off, as there is a boost in electrical usage when you turn on a light or appliance. Is this still true?

Was it ever true?

How updated is the home to current building codes?

What if we all turn on the bathroom light at half-time?

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#5
In reply to #3

Re: Surge

01/23/2008 8:20 PM

Thank you. You fellows have given me good information. The terminology helps considerably.

Just to clear things up...my father exagerated about the on/off thing. We were not playing with the lights. "If you are going back into the room within a half-hour, leave the lights on, otherwise turn them off."

My thoughts on this are that even if the inrush current causes a negligible amount of wasted energy, think about the entire country and how many times this happens each day. If only they could come up with something.

This is one of the questions I ask at www.driveucrazy.com

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#16
In reply to #3

Re: Surge

01/24/2008 9:09 AM

Energy-saving lamps are not really "Energy-Saving" when the extra costs of materials, manufacture, and disposal of the failed lamp are taken into account.

Not to sidetrack the thread, but this is an interesting statement. Fluorescent lamps have mercury in them, and thus are not safe to simply throw away. "Green" fluorescent lamps have come out, but they still contain mercury. Also, low-energy, incandescent replacement bulbs also contain mercury. There are "laws" governing how such lamps and bulbs are to be disposed of. The incandescent replacement bulbs are supposed to be enclosed in 2 plastic bags prior to disposal in the regular garbage. I don't know yet how you are supposed to "properly" dispose of fluorescent lamps.

The point is that way too much responsibility has been placed on the end user to properly dispose of such lamps, and I'm sure very few actually follow the rules. Therefore, the push to use energy-saving bulbs may actually be detrimental to the environment in the long run. In that respect, I agree with the above poster.

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#22
In reply to #16

Re: Surge

01/24/2008 8:53 PM

Thank you for info about disposal. Was looking fluorescents over when another shopper said she would not buy them, as there are grandchildren in the house. That brings up another consideration, safety.

As for the price, I lucked out in a local hardware store...79 cents a bulb. Seems they were discontinuing little known brand and bringing in GEs. Both are made in China, but isn't nearly everything? That shot is definitely off-topic!

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#17
In reply to #3

Re: Surge

01/24/2008 9:20 AM

Kind of makes you wonder where the politicians are when they require conversion to low energy lights.

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#18
In reply to #3

Re: Surge

01/24/2008 9:28 AM

Very good answer Sparkstation. Thank you.

I also wanted to know this and thanks Joankelsy for putting my thoughts on the paper.

Regards;

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#28
In reply to #3

Re: Surge

01/25/2008 1:43 AM

Good morning Sparks!

uhhh...is your number 2. _really_ true? Do you have (real) data to back that statement up? Because although the energy-saver lamps clearly require more materials & energy to make (and dispose of), they last MUCH longer than the plain ol'...

Just curious, because over here, the talk is about banning tungsten bulms within the next couple of years.

Also need to consider that a whole gaggle of tungsten bulbs, most of whose energy is given off as heat and not visible light, add to air-con loads when & where it's hot...

cheers & nice weekend

RF_G

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#32
In reply to #28

Re: Surge

01/28/2008 10:07 PM

Hello RF_guy,

If you do the costs correctly, you will see that although the save electricity at the point of use: Home, Office etc, the cost of energy and resources to manufacture those lamps and dispose of their toxic products, far outweighs the totalled home user savings.

Like many products: Petroleum, Plastics, and the like, these energy-saver lamps are "cheap" because a precious resource is being subsidized, while at the same time the resource is being squandered.

Kind Regards....

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#33
In reply to #32

Re: Surge

01/29/2008 4:27 AM

Hi Sparks!

I'm sorry, but you still haven't convinced me. You write, "Like many products: Petroleum, Plastics, and the like, these energy-saver lamps are "cheap" because a precious resource is being subsidized, while at the same time the resource is being squandered."

- while I certainly don't disagree with that statement in a general sense (= other industries, products), I don't see the connection to energy-saving light-bulbs

(here I'm speaking, to be unambiguous, about the flourescent-tube lamps with the 'fat'ceramic box-bases). First off, I'm paying a lot more for the lamp, which I assume is going to pay for their construction, the electronics inside, the additional glass, the flourescent gas, etc. Further, as I've already mentioned, these lamps last *much* longer than ordinary incandescents. And lastly, they certainly a fraction of the wattage for a given amount of light. Granted there is a problem with their disposal, but at least here in Europe, they're being disposed of like all other recyclables, in an industrial facility which must follow all environmental regulations. I don't see how any of this chain is subsidized, but perhaps you know something I don't. The more elaborate production etc. must be viewed against the significantly lower energy use and much longer lifetime if a serious & comprehensive 'footprint' calculation is to be carried out.

At the moment, the EU has a huge lead on protection of the envirnoment and the consumer from chemicals and pollutants, measured against the US (which used to be in the forefront decades ago). Certainly the issue about the presence of mercury in these bulbs is moot - the EU eliminated mercury in every aspect of life here long ago - a simple example is batteries containing mercury, which have been illegal for at least 10 years here. Illegal meaning: they are unobtainable, you cannot manufacture them anymore. While it's certainly folly to blindly trust the EU, I would find it difficult to believe that these bulbs aren't doing something positive for the overall carbon/energy balance.

My impression is that energy-saving lightbulbs are a good thing, whereas 'biofuel' - which at the moment manifests itself as using (mostly) feed crops (whether for people or animals people eat) to fill up the tanks of over-sized toys owned by people with inferiority complexes, but which is heavily subsidized by governments, is inherently evil. That's something worth fighting against!

Nice day

RF_G

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#40
In reply to #33

Re: Surge

02/03/2008 7:59 PM

Hello RF_guy

If you can show me where the "energy-saving lamps" are carefully collected separate from the general "rubbish stream", the electronic ballast and other parts separated and recycled, please advise.

Remember that there is normally mercury and argon inside the coiled tube.

When the costs in terms of energy to build the lamp factory; energy to manufacture mining equipment, explosives and the like, to obtain metals; energy requirement to explore for petroleum, refine same to make plastic parts; the other factories to build sub-parts; the energy required for gathering together and assembling the various parts; the waste streams of those factories, mines etc; the energy to actually build, complete and test the lamp; energy required for tree growing and harvesting for the packaging; transport of the packaging; energy input for transporting to warehouse, shipping, warehouse, store, car to get to your home; energy to insert/remove the lamp, energy required for disposal of all the product, including packaging.....

Then the environmental costs of energy and disposal, which are higher than most people realize.

That is a very general summary of the energy/disposal requirements for the so-called "energy-saving" lamp.

Because of the complexity of the "energy-saving lamp", the costs are much higher that the "standard" incandescent filament lamp.

There are many further factors, of course, but perhaps you may now see how the product is "heavily subsidized".

Life for life, energy for energy, waste products for waste products, the incandescent filament lamp wins every time.

Kind Regards....

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#41
In reply to #40

Re: Surge

02/04/2008 3:45 AM

Hey Sparks,

"If you can show me where the "energy-saving lamps" are carefully collected separate from the general "rubbish stream", the electronic ballast and other parts separated and recycled, please advise." - here in Switzerland as in Germany, Austria, and the Scandanavian countries (elsewhere I don't know...), there are collection points for *all* products - in this case, the vendor has to take them back and they get disposed of properly (or the mfr and the disposal firm fact heavy fines). NZ, Oz, the USA, etc., all are all still pretty 'dirty' countries in that regard.

I regard pretty much everything in your 2nd paragraph as moot points, since those issues apply generally to pretty much all products..

I don't know what's in the 'fat'/'square' base of the lamp, but with today's technology I don't think it's a big deal.

I stick to my point - they use much less energy and give off much less heat for the same light output, and they last much much longer.

Either way, I think it is extremely difficult to come up with an accurate 'footprint' for any product!

cheers

RF_G

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#6

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/23/2008 11:14 PM

I understand that in years gone by, 35 mm projectors using quartz halogen lamps had some sort of resistance limiting the onrush of current when first turned on. Once the lamp was fully on the effect of this resistor diminished. Whether or not it was a Voltatge dependent resistor, or a relay that took a fixed resistor out of the circuit I do not know.

To cut to the chase, such a device certainly minmised the frequency of lamps blowing and could be useful in minimising lamps blowing in situations where you want to save power by turning lights off when the room is not occupied, and turning them on when occupied.

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#10
In reply to #6

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 2:11 AM

In Vacuum tube TV sets we called them Globars. They were negative coefficient resistors wired in series with the heater cicuits of the vacuum tubes. When cold, these had a higher resisance thus minimizing the cold inrush current to the heater elements. As the Globar heated up from current flow, its resistance dropped and the heaters finally came on with full power. Thsi interval was only a matter of seconds.

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#7

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/23/2008 11:32 PM

I have my bathroom makeup lights by the mirror on a dimmer and the bulbs seem to last a lot longer there than elsewhere in the house. I only turn them on and off by dialing the dimmer thus eliminating the shock of a sudden onrush of current. The elements are heated and cooled gradually this way.

I wanted to get a toggle dimmer but I'm waiting for this one to die. Now I can't seem to find a quality dimmer. The one I have in my living room functions flawlessly and was made by Power Controls but even don't make a good one anymore.

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#35
In reply to #7

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/29/2008 7:49 AM

Thank you for the update on quality. When we had an addition to our home, a studio, I wanted dimmers on most of the lighting, which is considerable for a 14x30' room. The electrician said that often these devices blow or something and the customer has to pay for the loss.

Dimmers are a must have for me, as I have photo phobia. Quite a few have been servicing me for years, now. I had also used the fluerescents in an older home around the eighties, I think. Afraid I have been lax in shutting off what I am not using. Big changes in the electric bill have me "juiced", however. I mean my bills have gone down!

Peace, Joankelsy

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#8

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 12:20 AM

Some large commercial users will sometimes notice a high failure rate among their line voltage incandescent and halogen lamps.

In some cases, this is due to the whole facility have a slight over voltage. One facility was receiving 126 volts, and it burned out lights like flashcubes.

The power company adjusted the voltage down, and the problem went away. Many commercial and industrial users specify lamps that are rated for higher voltages (130 volt). These are sold to residential consumer as long life bulbs.

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#13
In reply to #8

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 6:14 AM

Exactly, voltage has a huge effect on bulb life. I don't remember the exact formula but its something like the ratio of voltages to the 7th power or something. So by just running bulbs at 90% of rated volatage it almost doubles their life and conversely by running just 10% over will half their life.

I don't think they are sold anymore but their were some energy savings bulbs that had a diode in series with the filament causing the bulb to half wave. The problem was that the flicker of the on/off bulbs is perceptible to the human eye so they were very annoying to some.

Shawn

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#23
In reply to #13

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 9:57 PM

Hello Shawn33

Use of diodes in such a manner is frowned upon by Power Suppliers.

The reason is that it gives a DC component in the AC system.

That DC component interferes with transformers, kWH meters, and can cause premature ageing of transformers, should there be enough electricity users doing this on a network.

Use of proper dimmers is no problem, because they switch off a portion of both the positive going and negative going waveforms, thus it evens out, and no troublesome DC is thence reflected into the network.

Kind Regards....

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#24
In reply to #23

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 10:23 PM

If equal wattage loads are connected with series diodes Anode to Active and Cathode to Active, won't that even things out?

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#25
In reply to #24

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 10:59 PM

Hello Lleros Marharg

Yes, that does even things out, as you say.

But as you might appreciate, in practice this solution to the DC problem is not always easy to implement, because the connected Wattage of each type must be kept equal at all times.

Kind Regards....

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#37
In reply to #23

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/29/2008 8:06 AM

Hi Sparkstation,

The bulbs would come with the diode placed randomly, I suppose the thought being with enough of the bulbs around and with some conducting in the positive half cycle and others in the negative half cycle that it would "even out". Anyway you look at it though it was a poor design as the flicker of the bulbs was noticeable and annoying.

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#9

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 12:30 AM

Another thought, all above are closely correct.

your parents are happily resting in said room after a day of whatever they do while your not there.

You arrive home and their headache begins, you get bored and that doesn't help the headache.

from boredom comes some inventiveness, like, "If I turn on and off the light, is the room dimmer or lighter"

very bad idea for headaches...

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#12

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 6:12 AM

Re post 7.

I can confirm that a dimmer switch will reduce the surge and make tungsten lamps last longer.

I use the type where the dimmer knob is also an on/off push-button. That means you can set the brightness then use it as a switch.

I tried the 'thermistor' approach (negative temp coefficient resistor) but not successfully because I could not match the thermistors to the lamps - and it was difficult to wire them up safely (they get hot).

The dimmer switch works a treat. They are readily available and easy to fit.

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#14

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 6:50 AM

Beware of cheap energy saving bulbs! (13w)

If you live in a place with poor voltage regulation be carefull with the low wattage fluorescent bulbs. I had a bad expirience with one during Christmas a couple of years ago. My wife and kids go to their farm and i stay home, I have 1 leg amputated and get around on crutches. One morning i turned on the lights in 1 bedroom to get something then went outside for a minute. When i looked back there was an orange ball of flames in the bedroom. Always keeping 5 gal buckets of water in the shower i grabbed 1 and hopped to the room,falling on my butt and spilling 1/2 the water. The bed was on fire! after putting it out i found the transformer used in the bulb stuck to the side of the bed and no bulb in the socket. The mosquito netting and stuffed animals went up like they were gas soaked!

Internet research showed that there are several of these bulbs that have a plastic shroud instead of ceramic and can explode/ burn up. Scared the heck out of me!

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#26

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/24/2008 11:39 PM

This on-off-on-off cycling of bulb's isn't just on the incandescant lights in the house, but also in your car, turning the lights on and off for night driving, and the indicators what are possibly the worst affected (well, not as much for those who don't use them, or those who give 1-flash and think they have given enough warning)

I designed a driver for driving lights, with "soft-start" function (current controlled) and low battery shutdown (leave lights on without engine running)

This is the same idea as for "smart dimmers" that "soft-start" your lights for you, and the newer car ECU/Body-computers that "soft-start" your car lighting systems (including brake lights)

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#36
In reply to #26

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/29/2008 8:04 AM

Dear Snaketils,

Very interesting. Are your devices in production? Please visit my site, www.driveucrazy.com and go to category "Why Not?" It contains an entry about inventing. Would love to have you add comment for my readers. In four months, over 22,000 hits.

Just hope the dialog keeps going. There is so much that can be done about the energy issue.

Imagine, Joankelsy

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#27

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/25/2008 1:02 AM

People,

A number of corrections are needed:

1. The inrush current to a cold filament has an associated strong magnetic field, which causes the very closely-wound coils of the filament to move (like a relay coil moves the contacts). This will cause a weak spot to fracture or cause a spot (where age has allowed the coils to get closer) to short. With the first, it burns out; with the second it glows brighter for a short time before burning out.

2. The hazard with the mercury in the bulbs only affects us if the glass envelope is broken. Fortunately, this usually only happens when it is dropped or otherwise damaged.

3. As stated, any method which reduces the voltage on the filament below its designed voltage will dramatically extend its life. But, the cooler operating filament will produce substantially less light. That is why EVERY long-life bulb is a poor choice for energy efficiency, and should only be used in locations where the costs of replacement or the effects from its being burned out are high.

4. In the 1980's you could buy (in the USA at least) a small button light bulb socket insert which contained a thermistor. You would put it into the socket and then screw the bulb in. Now the bulb would start dim and then become brighter after a few seconds (as the thermistor warmed). Unfortunately, there was still some voltage drop across it so the light output of the bulbs was always a little less.

5. Similarly, one could buy a diode.

6. Any diodes used on light bulbs are a small part of the entire electronic load we connect each day. I would be more worried about the larger total than this one part of it. Furthermore, the big problem with these electronic loads is not any DC component they impose on the power line, but the harmonics and harmonic distortion of the sine wave which is imposed on the power line.

7. Back to long life bulbs--look at the label on the package. Same wattage, just much less light output. Watts and Lumens are both measures of energy. One is electrical energy and the other light energy. 683 Lumens is 1 Watt. The label data will show that a standard 60-watt incandescent bulb is only about 2% efficient and a similar long-life bulb is about 1.7% efficient. In comparison, a spiral twist fluorescent is about 9% efficient. In general, for all bulb types, the efficiency increases as the bulb wattage increases. Yeah, these efficiencies sound bad, but compared to a gas mantle light they are quite good.

8. As the incandescent bulb ages, the tungsten of the filament slowly vaporizes and gets deposited on the cooler inside of the glass envelope. You can see this as a general darkening of the bulb or a dark area on the part of the bulb which has been "up". In halogen bulbs (first called "quartz-iodine"), the envelope is made of fused quartz and is located much closer to the filament. The quartz is needed because it doesn't soften at the higher temperatures. As the tungsten gets deposited on the bulb wall it reacts with the small amounts of iodine gas inside the bulb to form tungsten iodide, which is a gas at these higher bulb-wall temperatures. When the tungsten iodide contacts the filament, its much higher temperature breaks the tungsten iodide back down to tungsten metal (redeposited on the filament) and free iodine. Therefore, for halogen lamps, the bulb doesn't darken, it is much smaller, and the life is much longer (with a slight increase in efficiency because of the higher permissible filament temperature); but the bulb is very hot and easily damaged by things such as fingerprints.

--JMM

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#29
In reply to #27

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/25/2008 8:27 PM

Excellent. I feel like I am in Light Bulb 101. imueller's comments are particularly interesting. I remember the small disks of the eighties but not the gas mantles. How did you come up with that one? They were from my grandmother's day and I'm well into the senior zone.

Initially, I was curious about the waste of electricity with the inrush current. However, the thrust of the discussion has turned toward the light bulb. Not a bad idea. The more we learn about every aspect of this energy thing, the better.

I am doing my best to understand so that this household, at least, will consume less. So far, changing habits have brought the bills down considerably. (Laypeople usually measures these things by the dollar.)

I will continue to visit this great site for an education.

Joankelsy www.driveucrazy.com

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#30
In reply to #29

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/25/2008 11:38 PM

And a lot of tight wad engineers measure things by the dollar.

Welcome to the site! Feel free to ask anything, don't mind the occasional outbursts or sarcasm, and you will find a lott of interesting information, data, and opinions.

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#31
In reply to #29

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/26/2008 1:57 AM

Thanks, Joankelsy.

I enjoy making the technical understandable.

One time I worked on a beautiful historical mansion, which had its original (1880's) electrical wiring in excellent condition and still in use. Chandeliers in the center of each room had 2-5 gas mantles and an equal number of light bulbs. This was back in the days when the supply of electricity was unreliable, so many homes had combination fixtures. The brass ring at the bottom of the fixture was a rotary progressive switch--turn it 30-degrees and one light bulb turned on, another 30-degrees and a second was on, etc. until the final 30-degrees turned them all off simultaneously. All this was still working (including the gas mantles with individual valves in their stems). Imagine--turning on just the amount of light you would need--the effect of a dimmer but with no loss in energy efficiency (and we think we know it all!).

You may have seen a camper's Coleman lantern. The gas mantle is made of rare-earth materials which will form a relatively stable ash when they burn. Then the flame heats this ash mantle to the temperature where it glows incandescently to give light. This is very similar to the electricity going through a tungsten filament and heating it to the temperature where it glows incandescently to give light. In either one, the heat makes the material glow. However, electric heating is direct but a flame is indirect, so electricity is inherently much more efficient.

Before we had the gas mantle type of gas lights, we had ones without a mantle. They gave their light via the yellow-white flame when pure gas burned in air (not the pale blue you see with a gas/air mixture burning like you have in a furnace or cooking stove). People loved the "new" gas mantle fixtures because they were so much brighter. You could even buy kits to upgrade the earlier styles to the mantle styles!

Regarding the momentary inrush--it lasts less than a tenth of a second, so it has no measurable effect on the electric bill. However, this inrush does cause additional arcing at the switch contacts. This led to making switches with a toggle action, so the contacts would snap closed or open very quickly as the switch handle was moved. Early types (when they were made to last!) had a sliding contact so the spot where the arcing occurred was not where the current would flow after the switch contacts had finished their toggled motion. Switches which were designed to handle the inrush current of a tungsten filament were allowed to have a "T" rating on their handle or switch body, to indicate that they were suitable for the inrush of tungsten filament loads.

Today we have similar inrush problems with heating and air conditioning equipment, so circuit breakers which are designed to handle the inrush loads of the compressors have an "HACR" rating.

Keep going--JMM.

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#34
In reply to #31

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/29/2008 6:11 AM

It was interesting to hear about the transition from gas to electric, and the design of switches to handle the inrush of current, but it would be worth adding that the toggle action was much to do with 'breaking' the current in the early days when we had DC supplies.

A slow breaking action would draw an arc, not only to burn the contacts, but enough to set the switch and cables on fire - and the surrounding woodwork - and the house!

The transition to AC reduced this risk to near zero, where in it's wake came the micro contact switches (remember the old GEC mute action 'Mutac' switches?).

They were marked 'AC Only' but surprisingly in my early apprentice days (the 50's) you would not necessarily know whether the supply to a house was DC or AC - where fitting these 'new fangled' silent switches to DC supplies could have dramatic results.

In those days electricians did not have the luxury of test meters - and even if they could afford them - they were big and bulky - and not he sort of thing you could carry on a bus or bike - so the simple test was to disconnect a current carrying wire from a terminal to see if you could slowly pull an arc.

Not that this has anything to do with in-rush current.

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#38
In reply to #34

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/29/2008 8:20 AM

Not exactly off-topic, my original question was just to open a dialogue into saving energy.

Without a history, where can we go with anything? Enjoyed the part about the bus/bike. Not everyone family had one or more gas guzzlers in those days.

I remember it well, Joankelsy

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#39
In reply to #38

Re: Surge Protection and Light Bulbs

01/29/2008 10:34 AM

I am glad you liked the bus/bike bit. Here's another story (under the guise of energy saving by not using cars).

I was sent from the building site back to the depot to pick up a whole 12ft length of 1¼" conduit. I was expected to walk back (about 3 miles) across London with this pipe on my shoulder. It became very difficult because the streets were crowded with people, so I tried to catch a bus.

Surprisingly the conductor (we had them in those days) agreed to let me on the bus (a double-decker). He told me to stand on the rear platform with the pipe upright held tight against the side of the bus. It worked a treat. Great! I thought.

Until suddenly, a couple of stops down the route, some bloke ran alongside and grabbed hold of my pipe. I thought he was trying to pinch it (there was a serious national steel shortage at the time) so I hung on tight. But instead of letting go, he jumped on the bus - and when on board - he apologised saying he thought my pipe was the hand rail.

Later, back at the site, expecting the foreman to give me a pat on the back for initiative, he has a go at me because the pipe was bent.

My little contribution to energy saving today, is to boil only the exact amount of water to make the tea. And then boil it only once. A 3kw kettle run for a few unnecessary minutes use far more power than ever saved by economising on light bulb surges.

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