Recommended Epoxy Coating - 100% epoxy, new construction?

Hello allanj

You will need to ensure the concrete surface has cured properly before applying any non-water-based sealer compound.

We used to seal concrete with a proprietary 2 pot industrial resin, but as you don't give your location, the product we used would probably not be available unless you were located in New Zealand.

Advise your location - go to your "Edit Profile" at the bottom right hand corner of the monitor, in the "Logged In" box.

Alter your settings there as needed, and your location then automatically shows for each Post you make in CR4.

One of the best concrete sealers is a proprietary concrete paving paint.

We did a large motor garage floor some 15 years ago and the owner was so pleased; even after 20 years, you could still almost eat your lunch off the floor. The product Solpah Paving Paint was so good after all that time.

Kind Regards...

There are at least three different approaches: 1. See your local professional floor finisher for a 2k water-based epoxy which is the easiest to apply. It is typically white when applied. 2. See your local professional paint store for epoxy-based cement or porch & deck epoxy enamel paint. 3. There are super 2k epoxy floor coatings that come in kits, for about $ 60 a kit, and you'll need several kits. Don't try to use this coating by yourself. You'll need a professional floor finisher. But this coating will stand up to fork lifts, industrial work, solvent spills, wear and tear. It can also be spread a little way up the wall like a super molding. The old adage: You get what you pay for.

Think Twice!!! Then think again!!!!

Coating your floor may sound like a good idea and look purrrdy, but before you do, consider this. Woodworking of any kind creates a lot of fine dust, which will cause the floor to become extremely slippery. It may be best to just seal or dye the floor and opt out of the epoxy coating. I have first hand experience with fine saw dust and a purrrdy new shiny shop floor, I did a full leg split. Needless to say, I was out of work for 3 weeks. Shop owner had to re-coat with an abrasive mixed in. Harder to sweep and clean but no more skating on fine sawdust. Same thing will happen with floor tile. Another idea would be to lay wood strips, vapor barrer and unfinished plywood over the concrete floor. Wood is easier on the feet, droped tools, looks good, and if done yourself, won't cost much more than the epoxy. Just my .02

Coat the garage, not the wood shop!!!!!!

Good answer, specifying the "right place to go" for the defacto standard(s) applicable to this type of question/post.

You mentioned (sort-of "in passing") pinholes... (as a potential problem).

On concrete, which is porous, thus containing a bunch of trapped air... the experts will tell you to be sure and apply your product at that time-of-day where the temperature will be falling, as opposed to rising. In doing so, the 'contraction' of the entrapped air will aid slightly in pulling the product down INTO the pores, insuring better adhesion, etc. ... Whereas, if you apply when the temperature is about to start rising, you can EXPECT the entrapped air to be expanding, pushing-out tiny bubbles, forming pinholes littered throughout your otherwise fine new coating job!

Best wishes to you ~

This reply may be a little premature-but still may be relevant to you.

After you have epoxied your work space--if you decide that you do not like it or would like to change it back to concrete, here are some links for Diamond Cup Wheels designed for quick removal of epoxy and paint from concrete:

http://estore.websitepros.com/1808377/Detail.bok?no=305

http://estore.websitepros.com/1808377/Detail.bok?no=306

MrHandyMan