Pouland chain saw 2 years old used frequently

I have had a similar experience with the same make of saw. Take apart the chain sprocket, clutch assembly. You will likely find a broken part that is jamming the crankshaft.

i got that far but i did not look for a jam, thanks i'll look today! appreciate the fed back..steve

There is a very helpful chainsaw forum at www.arboristsite.com.

Replace the air filter and check the small gas filter and tube inside the fuel tank. I've found them to be plugged or the line has some issues.

Next would be to remove the spark plug and secure it with a tie to short the plug housing to ground. Then, watch for a good spark when you pull the starter rope. If no spark, or a very weak spark, then you have a bad ignition module. When I had a similar problem with a saw a couple years ago, I learned that it is not uncommon for a saw to have a bad ignition module that will provide a spark that is too weak to ignite combustion gases.

I blew a module two years ago, while standing in a water-filled ditch to saw up a fallen tree. It could be that water somehow shorted the module, causing it to go bad... or, it was just coincidence that I was sawing in water when it blew. After replacing the module it runs better than new. Good luck.

i believe you may have it,the spark appears to look weak...i 'll change the ignition mod. when i put a small amount of gas into the cylinder head there was no fire,which led me to this forum. thanks steve

i think this is a good possibility i have gotten a lot of response all helpfull. i should have the new plug and module with in the next day.if this fails..than stated it might be toasted thanks for the info.

is it live it up or give it up?..i 'm still at it ..i changed the module. what is the air gap? is it measured with magnets lined up in between module sensor? i would think,i used a brass feeler gage at .010 and have spark..still looks weak to me,plug is wet, i will change the spark plug when i get i knew one(i ordered module and plug) but did not recieve plug...i tried plug from leaf blower results still no fire,the air gap and or the plug ? what is the gap on new plug to be set at? i checked trigger switch ground and ohms..indicate ok...i diconnected and tried (preventing module ground)still no fire?? piston with plug out freely operates,chain and bar removed for these test..got any other ideas i might have missed? thanks steve one other this is a 33cc 14 inch bar

Dang! I thought your post would be to report you got the engine purring, once again.

The air gap can be set by inserting a piece of paper or thin cardboard between the module and magnets before securing the module; then slip the paper/cardboard out. Gap needs to be just big enough so magnets don't rub on module, during operation.

You might try to clean the plug with un-oiled gasoline and then squirt a little of the same gas into the carb to see if it will fire. Sometimes oil soaked plugs won't fire, either. If the engine fires with clean gas, but won't run on the fuel supplied by the carb, then it is possible that the fuel pump diaphragm in the carb needs to be replaced. When I replaced my module I, also, got a carb kit and replaced the diaphragm.

I don't recall if you have removed the carb and needle valve and cleaned all to be sure there isn't something blocking the flow of gas through the carb. Of course this should be done.

good advise..i will set at paper clearance and will make sure of clearance. i have removed the carb...it is getting plenty gas..priming wets the plug now.i have the same plug but will change it soon as i get to town...i frankly am starting to wonder? maybe it is toasted ...but i aint giving up just yet...what is the spark gap on the plug?

hey guys thats what makes us guys..appreciate the feed back. all the answers will be in the right direction..thanks again!

Remove the muffler and make sure that the cylinder exhaust ports are clear. This was a normal thing to happen on older weed eaters and lawnboys esp. if you mix the oil a little rich.

did as suggested but looked good..now this is a challenge and when i get the answer i hope to let you know thanks

Guess thats why they call it a pull and, pull and,......

Look in the exhaust port, move the cylinder past the port, if it's scored or the rings look bad, its toast. Too much to repair. Two cycle engines require scavanged air to operate, so if the cylinder is bypassing from the crank to exhaust it will not start.

good answer i did check the piston sides appeared a little scored and wondered my self...i have seen worse..but still not sure, i"m thinking of changing the plug and module..i added a small amount of gas into the port..still not firing possible weak spark i checked the spark and i have seen beter..i like challenges more than investments..as stated I'm a glutton for punishment ask my wife she"ll tell ya. thanks

Should we assume you did use the correct ratio/mixture of oil to gasoline when you were operating the saw? A rental shop once provided me with gas to fuel a string trimmer that did not have any oil mixed in. Well, the trimmer worked fine for a few weeds, then started to over-rev, and soon froze up. When I returned the trimmer to the shop I told the clerk what happened, and he replied, "Oh, I probably gave you the wrong gas."

ironically i did think of this...my leaf blower,not thinking, i put gas in when it froze up i realized my not thinking...where's the oil..i don't usually make mistakes of this nature but getting older..i do screw up more often..so i use three different size of can,the smallest of which a gallon ..i add 50:1 RATIO FOR ALL MY OIL MIXTURES. but that is a good reply and thanks

An air leak in your fuel line can produce this problem. Your fuel is your lubricant. No fuel, lots of drag.

I'm chainsaw poor (down to five). I asked my Saw Repair Man (Hey Dad).

As stated by guest above a pinched line or a clogged fuel filter can also do this.

After a few years, if not changed, the cotton marshmallow looking fuel filters in the tank end of the fuel line can turn hard and not pass fuel. (had my 38" take 7 years to do this).

Good luck, off to bed

Brad

Best solution for this brand chain saw:

Open Garbage Lid, throw in.

Buy a Stihl, Husky, or Jonsereds, and your problems will be OVER!!!

boy that ain't no lie...i owned a mac 10-10 anint that bad ..my problem with the stihl was weight I'm' a weakling..i loved my husky but the bar adj. nuts cracked the tension adjuster from over tight..and the jonsereds was too much than i had, but the poland,i mean pouland was out right "CHEAP, BUT I LIKE THE CHALLENGE..I 'm a greed for torture, especialy with carpetunal and artheritis of both hands,a recent heart valves replacement..and all this true..gotta be GLUTTON FOR PUNISHMENT...no pun intended for all you pouland engineers..least you got a job...for now.

Something that I didn't see mentioned is if the saw, and I would think it might have this, is a double switch on the handle, one that must be squeezed and held down for the main throttle to act. I have not had experience with the Pouland, but know that on some saws if this switch is goofing up, everything else you've gone through has been a great troubleshooting exercise. I would do all of the other things the other guys have mentioned in addition to checking the validity of that safety switch. I see you mention changed gas, but I am wondering if someone has also screwed with your gas can recently and put straight gas in instead of mix. Could have happened. Also, have you had the chance to inspect the bar groove for metal filings, and how is the nose roller, does it rotate freely when it's hot as well as cold? Good luck, I'll keep an eye one this for grins and giggles.

very good info. the switch you mention is locked when full choke is engaged while holding switch back. now this is a good possibillity..next i figure out a way to check that trigger switch..i did recieve a module but have not installed just yet..the gas i assumed..now you know what happens when assumption takes over so it is possible. the roller is worn but rolls freely..when i defeat this monster i will post what i done and thanks alot for the info...steve

I have to work on a wide variety of motors here at the fire department shop, and we have had the gasoline item pop up about every other year when we get some young firefighters who "help" out before one of the grizzled guys gets the chance to see who did the deed. Oh well, good thing we have more than one saw! Take care, and thanks for the reply.

buy a stihl brand saw, and only use stihl brand 2 cycle mix. Poulan, no d, are not designed to be used frequently. They are good for one season of light homeowner trimming only.