Engine running but car not moving with CHECK engine light on and code P0715

Is it possible that your gearbox has been stolen, or your car is still in the garage.

Code designates Speed sensor circuit malfunction and will be a shop repair item unless you are a Transmission Tech

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080125144357AAp8vcW Is this you?

The guys are right. But it's a tough one to cut your teeth on if your going to do it yourself, my son did it from scratch on Land Rovers. Get a replacement from a breakers yard, guarenteed if possible, replace and then do a strip down and forensics on the old one. You some times can sell the parts to get a return on your outlay. Good Luck.

Hi Jim:

Your message reminded me the problem (somewhat similar) I had with my car back in 1985. I bought a new 1981 Fairmont Futura in March 1981 from Arlington, Virginia and it gave very good service. Then in summer of 1985 in New Orleans, (yes, I moved to NOLA in Aug 1981) and then the problem started. The car would run good but whenever I started the car and put in forward gear, it will not move. After sometimes, it will move very slowly and then it will pick up the speed. Then once I put it in Reverse, it will quickly pick up the speed and then I stop and put in forward, it will run as nothing happened. So I learned how to get it running. I ran like that for few weeks and then I talked to a friend of mine who owned the transmission shop. He said bring it in and there was something missing and he replaced it within the hour and charged me 250 dollars. If I was with those thieves line AAMCO or those kind, I could have paid lot more. It never gave any problem again and I ran until it 275000 miles and in 1999 I gave it ot my sister because she needed a car. It was a beautiful car running like dream. I was sold to FORD ever since although people say that FORD means Fix Or Repair Daily or Found On Road Dead but I am against it. I always buy only American cars and always had one Ford in the house ever since beside GM and Nissan Quest (This was my worse-half's idea as she wanted to get a van with a bench seat) and none of the American vans had bench seats in 1998. It is giving good service although we have 102000 miles on it and we replaced AC ssytem.(only 1120 dollars)

So, I guess you need to take your car to the transmission people. I never knew what was wrong with the transmision and he never told me and I never wanted to know or cared to know as long as it ran well. I guess he did me a favor and saved me from a big expensive reapir work from somewhere else.

Regards;

Nadeem

One thing it could be is very expensive. My wife had it happen to her Honda Accord EX. The Check Engine light came on and would not go off. The story from the dealer was that the catalytic converter was going bad; lotsa lotsa dollars, bummer! That or the fuel filler cap was loose. I checked the cap, removed and replace it, but the light stayed on. Next time she cranked the car, the light was out. Then it came on again intermittently. After much praying and the sacrifice of a small animal it went out and stayed out. Maybe you'll be lucky; check the cap.

Your machine probably has an electronic sending unit located under/around the accelerator pedal, which has died. Press on the accelerator pedal, and an electronic signal tells the throttle how far to open up. If you put it in gear, does it creapforward (or back in reverse) just under the idle speed? Mine did.

I had the same problem with my VW Jetta a few months back. Dealer replaced the sending unit - cost less than 100 bucks.

Rockmon

Thanks.

I didn't feel special difficulty in shifting gear. In the idle state, I guess that I have to put brake on and pull brake stick (?) up, then I shift the gear either forward or reverse. I have to try that. Since you mention "throttle" here, I did have service on "throttle" at a dealer last year. This 96 Honda was under warranty due to overheating problem. At that time, check engine light was on, the problem was related to insufficient air intake if I remembered correctly. I was told that a lot of carbon deposit blocked the airway. What they did is to drill a hole let air in for combustion purpose. I am not sure if the current problem is somehow related to the previous one. Since this car is past the warranty this year, I guess that the new action will be on me this time.

Jim

Jim: I typed, "Honda Code P0715" into Google, to decode the code. The first hit not only decoded the code, but gave a probable repair scenario that a competent shade tree mechanic could follow. The following is abstracted from - http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl282f.htm

A. The P0715 indicates a malfunction in the Linear Solenoid. Honda outlines a specific procedure to flush the transmission. I included it here and I would also recommend using the Honda ATF, P/N 08206-9001.

REPAIR PROCEDURE: (Each sentence describes a separate step.)

Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Drain the transmission. Refill it with Genuine Honda ATF. Start the engine. With your foot on the brake pedal, shift the transmission to D4. Release the brake pedal. Press on the accelerator, and bring the speedometer up to 50 mph. Make sure the transmission shifts through the first three lower gears and into fourth, and that the torque converter locks up. Apply the brakes to stop the front wheels. Shift to reverse, and then to neutral. Repeat the shifting procedure (steps 4 through 7) four more times. Turn off the engine. Repeat the above drain, refill, and shifting procedure (steps 2 through 9) two more times. Drain the transmission. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer. Refill the transmission with Genuine Honda ATF.

Disconnect the linear solenoid electrical connector. Remove the 4 mounting bolts, then remove the linear solenoid.

(Comment by Mechanic Of NY - The linear solenoid is external to but bolted on to the transmission. It looks like the cut off end or cut off breech of a 22 caliber rifle, attached to a rectangular mounting plate with rounded corners. There is a gasket under the plate, sealing the solenoid to the transmission body. You should buy a scan tool, I like the "Auto X-Ray", and the Honda shop manual if you plan on doing this or related repairs.)

Inspect the linear solenoid mounting surface on the transmission. Remove any contamination. Install the new linear solenoid you purchased.

(Mechanic Of NY - or recondition or repair the original solenoid you removed. You will need expertise to repair the solenoid. Professional repair shops always use new new parts, only amateurs repair small components.)

Reconnect the electrical connector. Use the PGM Tester to erase any DTCs (Device Trouble Codes) in the powertrain control module (PCM).

(Mechanic Of NY) I personally would have no trouble doing this in my back yard, but I have more tools than most mechanics, and a machine shop, and a welding shop, and as a kid I worked as a mechanic. It does not pay well. I liked being a Rocket Scientist or an Accredited Expert to the Court Of International Trade - the pay is 10 times better. Now, as Voltaire advised, I tend my garden (actually my wife's garden), and fix my boats and cars and house.

You can fix your car if you really want to. But you will need the tools and the manuals. And some reasonable dexterity and intelligence, which most people reading this board appear to have in spades. (Spades beat clubs, diamonds, and hearts, as any dummy knows. 3 no trump?)

Thank you and thank you all for comments. I like to work around my car doing things like windows and oxygen sensors, but have never met issues from transmission. The car was towed and now is in driveway. Eventually, it will go to a shop. Several calls have been made. Before any decision is finalized, I try to get a sense of what is really going on. This morning I got into car and started engine. It runs great. Then I shifted the gear to D4, and the shift was as smooth as one can get. The car really MOVED. No problem forward and reverse. However, the highest speed I can get is 30 mph. P0715 code is still there. There is a whipping sound, and occasionally, there is a very short sound like metal striking something.

WHat I am considering to do is something that I can do. I believe the procedure for flushing transmission fluid is approachable. What else should I consider?