Accurate cutting of picture framing

When I used to do this kind of stuff, I always got the best results with an old hand powered miter saw.

Yup 'mandraulic' is sometimes still best.

Two problems...

1. Slack/backlash in the saw mountings (can they be tightened or shimmed?)
2. The Angle graduations on the saw are probably not accurate.
My bench saw graduations are waaaay out, I adjusted by trial and error with scrap wood until I got a 90degree angle when I assembled 2 mitred pieces, then I made a BIG mark on the scale indicating 'True' 45^o
3. There is no 3......

Del

You need to check the alignment of the blade to the fence. First make sure the fences if separated are aligned with a straight edge. One side or the both should be adjustable. Then set the saw to cut at a 90°. With a square align the blade to the fence. The knob it the front will have some attachment screws underneath that will allow you the make this adjustment. Since is a compound miter you need to all so set the adjustment on the back scale. Should have and adjustable stop for being perpendicular to the table. Use the square to set it. Now give it a try and let us know.

Over the holidays I worked in a frame distribution warehouse. We used a high quality miter saw, but did not clamp. The secret is to have the fence exactly 45° (reverse to check) and to use a good clamp when joining.

I've used several mitre saws and found that none of them have been all that accurate with their angle settings. I finally spent some time and made myself a 'perfect' 45 degree jig using a piece of plywood. Now, when I need a 45 degree cut, I just set my jig against the back fence, then adjust the blade up against my jig. The jig should be at least 6 inches on each side for a solid setting.

When I owned a picture framing shop many years ago, if I had a work experience kid working for me, the thing that always cropped up first was the problem you are describing! Admittedly, I used a manual mitre machine but the principle is the same! The recess for the glass, picture and backing in the mould needs to be blocked up otherwise when you cut the mould, it tends to rock back and forth a bit thus the front or back edge gets more saw action loosing the perpendicular cut! Try it and see what happens!

Oh, and invest in a good colored wax kit. But, if you do a lot of frames, you might look into ordering them precut or even prejoined. I know you've got to justify the Makita to the Missus, but a lot of small framing shops only cut mats and assemble. Everything else is usually available precut overnight.

Follow Graebeard's suggestion to build a jig. Then, all of your 45's will end up being cut perfectly.

Saw geometry needs be accurate within three minutes to look perfect. You need a good table saw and a miter. But the old hand miter is very reliable.

You can cheat though and put a slight compound bevel angle to compensate, the gaps will show only at the back.

Hi There,

I too have a Ryobi compound mitre saw & have found the angle settings to the graduations is not real good & the stop positions tends to be a bit loose and not line up exactly, I am a toolmaker by trade & have some really accurate combination sets and try squares that I use to set the blade angle to the back fence , easiest thing to do is to go to your local stationary, art or drawing office supplies store that sells those large cheap 45 deg, plastic set squares and buy and use one of them, they will be accurate enough for the job, can then set 45 deg angle or use to check & set 90 deg angles.

Regards,

Brien Mck.

With care, you should be able to do a perfect job with your miter saw. The biggest problem is that after the angles have been set to satisfactory tolerances, one often needs to change the adjustment for a different project, or to do the mating part of the frame. Most professional shops use a guillotine chopper for this task. They don't go out of adjustment, and they don't produce saw-dust.

Another problem is that the saw blade pulls on the molding. It may not move much, but a small amount will be visible since the opposite sides will not match.

You can buy a framing trimmer. It uses a razor blade to shave the molding and is permanently set at 45 deg. It gives a perfectly smooth, accurate cut and can take off a shaving a few thousandths of an inch thick. They are a little expensive for amateur work, but reasonable for a business.

Unfortunately, I don't know the manufacturer. I can only suggest you try a framing supply shop.

SunHill Machinery makes a nice razor sharp miter trimmer and a number of wood working shops on line carry them phone 800 929 4321 www. sunhillmachinery.com I recommend the top trimmer attachment and the measuring attachment as well

the other term that used to be used for the trimmer is Quillotine

Hobby lobby has a great assortment of precut frames cheap too.

I have a Dewalt miter saw and I had the same problem. I went through this when trimming the stain grade trim in my house. With stain grade trim you cannot fix a bad joint with cualking or wood filler very well. The saw I have has an adjustment for this(small set screws) The adjustment on the Dewalt is very easy to get right on. I would adjust till I got the 45 notch on the scale to be to be true to the angle i needed. You have to keep cutting 45 miters and then adjust a bit till they fit together perfect and square. Be sure you square is "square" first though I have found many squares that are out by as much as 1/64" are more. this doesn't sound like allot but when trying to set a angle to be perfect will give a headache. Also if your wood has a slight warp to it it can give a gap even though the angle is "perfect".

pipewelder

With stain grade trim you cannot fix a bad joint with cualking or wood filler very well.

Eh? Save the saw dust from cutting the stain grade trim so when you need a filler you can combine some of it with watered down Elmer's glue and select pigments to match your determined stain. If you are detail oriented I'm certain you can accomplish a fill without botching it.

A: Your saw is too big; the smaller chop saws do a closer job, it's what the pros use.

B: To remedy your problem and increase your tool inventory (never too many), look into the belt-disk sander combos. They are a fabulous tool that will prove helpful in a lot of jobs. Clamp a miter stop at a perfect spot for the job, use fine paper, and you will get pro results.