Low voltage class one and two at 12 watts

I can take my answer off the air thanks.

I didn't know we were on the radio...

Just because things exist does not make them legal...

Anyway, this website actually is a pretty good primmer on wiring class issues. I suggest you read it.

http://www.electrician2.com/eltrain05/lpage104.html

Hello Guest,

You refer to: <"....numerous systems installed all over the country....">

You do not bother to state to which actual Country you refer.

Please reply, with

Kind Regards....

I read that link for my own satisfaction and found it rather convoluted. If I am reading it correctly it would seem to say that for anything over 100VA then Class 1 wire is required and that using a fuse to "lower" the current rating doesn't count. That's probably because you could get a heart stopping shock in less time than it takes the fuse to blow?

There is also a general prohibition against running Class 1 & Class 2 in the same conduit or raceway. That was pretty clear.

Do I have that right?

never rely on a fuse to save your life, I have bridged a 240VAC load once with my hand, shattered a 10A-3AG fuse leaving me with a sore hand and 2 end caps still in the fuse holder.

Is the consultant your customer?

Generally, in the company I work in, we wire to the standards setout by the customer, each customer is different.

Have the customer supplied fully their intentions and you have spoken to them concerning the reasoning of their wishes/desires?

People on here could say, "No its not specificially needed" but what you supply to your customer should be as close as possible to what they asked for.

Class 1 or no class 1, its up to the customer to decide which way they wish to go, but also remember, the quote should also reflect the price differance if there is a selection of classes, this could also sway their descision as to where they wish to go.

If you say that Class 1 is the same price as none, they will go for Class 1.