Starter Motors

Hello hubertooru

<"....2 x N150 24V wet cell batteries...."> Is this a 48 Volt Starter?

Does the starter motor have the plain throwin/throwout Bendix drive?

Does the starter motor have the solenoid system similar to the second picture?

If you were able to Post a picture, along with the actual Starter Motor Details (from the starter motor nameplate) it would be helpful.

Reply here, with

Kind Regards....

Hi,

To know more Starter Motors please go through this link DOL Motor Starter Manufacturers in Bangalore, India.

Regards,

Hallow, guys,

I assume to check the resistance of the connecting wires.

What are the dimensions of the wires in successful starting and in fall starting?

(Length and cross square)

Before everything else -- look out for a innocent little device, called - FUSE!!!!

Sounds like you have two possible problems:

• The solenoid doesn't get energized during starting (listen to a click sound if cannot hear it then you have a contact problem).
• The solenoid has its pull-in coil faulty and only the in keep-in works (that during testing does not show up and appears to be OK).

The second suggestion is very unlikely and you should have noticed it during testing if the engaging gear gets thrown out violently, as it normally should.

However, if it is true when the starter is out of the vehicle runs perfect then, by referring to sparkstation's kindly provided diagram, check the starter switching circuit all the way to the solenoid!

Most starters have one or more relay to power their solenoid circuit that effectively comes between the starter switch and the Solenoid on your Starter.

Otherwise just keep on looking for any contact problems!!!

Lets back up a minute, what brought the starter into the picture? Have you bared the engine over to be positive there is no major damage elsewhere not allowing the engine to turn over???

I've seen many times when people try to start at square 3 rather than 1 and find there selves lost...

I would check the cabling to make sure there is good continuity between the starter and the battery cable ends. This needs to be done with the cables disconnected from the battery to avoid damaging the test instrument. I encountered a similiar problem once, it turned out to be a bad connection between the ground cable and the engine.

If the cable continuity is good check the actuation wire, this can be done with a voltmeter, battery cables connected, ignition switch in the start position. Be sure and have the vehicle in park or neutral and the wheel chocked before performing this test.

Hi Hubert,

1. Use a simple auto electrician's test lamp (24V bulb!). Connect from engine block to start motor +ive. NOT the solenoid, but the short link wire from the solenoid to the motor.

2. Check battery with meter. Must be > 24.6V. If less than this the the battery is too discharged for test.

3. Operate start, lamp should light fairly bright (>20V).

a. If bright, check that starter bendix can enter all the way into start gear. If there is something blocking it's progress then the starter will only be in low power mode where the motor is attempting to turn in series with the starter solenoid pull coil. Possibly the fault is a damaged start ring gear!

b. If dim (>10V <18V) then suspect engine seized (as per Tim in Mexico) try to Bar the engine over (rotate the engine with a socket spanner and a long extension lever)

c. If the lamp doesn't light at all then just work your way back through the electrics. Your starter, its solenoid and its mechanical set up can be simply tested by putting 24V on the solenoid start terminal. Make sure the vehicle is well braked, chocked etc. as per guest reply 5

Good luck

Chas