Car Stereo doesn't work

What does Bose tell you to use as a fuse to protect the system? Or is this a factory installed Bose system?

If Bose says the fuse should be 15 amp, you have a problem. Do you have an ammeter? What is the Bose drawing when working? If this is not a factory installed Bose, have a qualified installer look at it. There have been some real abortions done in the aftermarket radio installation field. Good luck.

The Bose is in fact factory installed. I am going by the legend on the car's fuse box so am pretty sure it is 15Amps.

I can get an ammeter....I'll post my findings as soon as I can. Thanks Bob.

Do you have any thing else that might have been tapped into that fuse power? An additional amp, GPS, Microwave oven ?

If not, you probably have a short of some kind as mentioned above. Is there any warranty on the vehicle? If you do not, try to find the factory authorized repair facility for the Bose. Everybody will want to sell you a new better system without finding out what is wrong with yours. You might want to think about removing the Bose unit yourself, or having the dealer just remove it. Then seek to have price quotes on the repairs needed.

I just had a new thought. (First one this month) Does this model have a separate remote amplifier? These are commonly mounted in the rear under the package shelf, or in the trunk. If you can, try to unplugging that unit, and see if it still blows fuses. Good luck.

You can buy a type of wire for stereos that has a built in fuse protector so you won't blow any more and it will tell you the amplification rartingscorpio69

One thing I noticed about Bose car speakers was the 1 ohm impedance rating. That tells me that these things are power hogs. If you tell us the particular model that you have we can search for information on the 'net on how much current it draws.

Assuming that 15 amps is correct, however, I can only say that your unit's power amplifier has a partial short somewhere. Without more information, that's as good a guess as I can give.

you need a condenser some where long the line to absorb the excess electric waves,

"the gentleman from Ft Lauderdale"

How cheap do you think I am? I don't give GAs out without at least a "great guy", or "wonderful person". I feel so cheap and used.

I am routinely suspicious of repair facilities that want consumers to "scrap your system and buy a new one from me" I feel that too many repair facilities that started offering replacement systems as a service, have now become sales facilities, with a repair shop to boost sales, where the big money is. I have tried to make a habit of not buying replacement parts from a repair facility. As in a radiator facility wanting me to buy a new radiator.

Getting back to the OP. If he is able to disconnect each speaker/amp from the system individually, will the system work with the three remaining speaker/ amps connected, thereby testing for where the shorted amp is?

Great Answer, Thanx.

The car is an Infiniti i30 1997.

I hear the loud cracking from the right hand speaker.

When the fuse blows, the display stays on...NO sound.

Take the car to the mechanic... or sell it.

Might be prudent to just stop by a car stereo shop and just let them give you there diagnosis of the problem.

At minimum, you'll have a little more information to work with given to you by someone who deals with car stereos on a daily basis. Unless you would rather ride to work just humming your favorite tunes...

Slience is Golden to me.

As has been mentioned it is a good possibility that theres a BOSE amp somewhere in your car, maybe under the parcel shelf in the rear (access from trunk). You could try a junk/salvage yard and see if you could pick up a used one from a junked car. It's probably a couple of minutes to swap it out and could be a cheap way to fix your problem. Good luck!

Shawn

Your problem is simple it is spelled B - O - S - E.. translated this means garbage.

After a lot of troubleshooting, i identified the problem to have originated from the rear right-hand speaker. I disconnected the terminal leading to that speaker and the fuse doesn't blow anymore.

The system works perfect minus that speaker. I sniffed the chip block that the power supply to the speaker bypasses and it is definately fried. Im still looking for the part online. Thank you all for your insight.

Any ideas where I can get this part?