1999 Saab 9-3 CV Boot

The purpose of the boot is to keep dirt out of the CV bearing joint. There is usually an excess of grease in the boot. Do not put grease back through the hole, you will more then likely contaminate the joint. Even the smallest amount of contamination will eventually ruin the bearings.

It must be patched or ideally replaced since there is a high probably that contamination has already occurred. As the joint flexes it will both compress and expands where the hole is. On compression, grease will escape. During expansion , it will suck in road dirt.

The hassle is nothing compared to the cost of replacing the CV joints.

techno is correct. You could try using a bicycle tube patch, and hope not much shite got in there before you noticed the hole.

depending the hole, black rtv works well and has flex but the surface has to be clean and dry. They do have tools out now that allow you to "build a boot" right on the car. On that car though, depending your level, CV boot is an easy job to replace.

Thanks to all of your replies. It looks like I will try a small bike patch first. I do think I will "squirt" a bit of new lube through the small hole. I don't think it can hurt. If that doesn't hold I will try to replace the boot. I really don't want to do this but I can if I have to.

Much like the Red Green show's "Mans Prayer" "I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess."

Thanks

Bob

The only correct answer is to remove the old boot, and clean the CV joint, repack it with fresh grease, and install a new boot.

But based on the difference in total cost between paying to have the above job done, and having a rebuilt axle installed, I would suggest that you pack some new grease in the hole. Wipe the area well with brake cleaner. Cut a small patch of cloth and saturate with silicone rubber, while it is still uncured, adhere it to the boot so as to cover the hole. Allow it to dry thoroughly with the CV joint in a straight position. Next day make sure it is sealed well, and drive it.

If the CV joint had gotten dirt in it it will fail sooner than the other side. If you did not clean it well enough, did not get enough grease in it, did not get the patch adhered well, or the boot tears again the same thing, early failure. If that happens you get a rebuilt axle, and at least you gave it a try. Good luck.

All replies are great and as you know bobc spelled it out for you as to what you can expect if shit got into the joint .

There are some " boot repair kits " available in certain areas . They are " split boots " that are two halves of the boot split longitudinally with rubber cement and new clamps supplied in the kit. You cut off the old boot and clamps and clean the joint very well with a preasure washer and solvent , you then pack with lube and attach the upper and lower halves of the boot and cement them together . " Follow the directions in the kit "

I have never tried this but can not think of a good reason why they shouldnt work fine as the cement works fine for tire punctures etc. ?

There are some " boot repair kits " available in certain areas . They are " split boots"..

Like the Bailcast sticky boots.

I have used these when I had to. The problem was that after you have gotten the grease into the joint, it is hard to get the grease off the boot to get the glue to stick. The tiny bolts that are used to hold the split boot together are a real pain in the ass. And working in that space is not easy. I have used them when I had to, but hate them. If you only have a small hole in your boot, try to reuse it.

Your hole is most likely due to flexing, so the patch will also flex and break in a short time, not even allowing for the fact that it is probably made of a rubber that is easily attacked by grease and other petroleum products!

Put a new boot on!!! Don't sod about!!!

Well now that the question of the source of the hole has come into question I must admit that it happened while I was replacing the steering knuckle/strut/spring assembly about a month ago. I did not notice the problem until I went under to check to make sure the ball joint boot was OK, I replaced that during the repair as well. I guess the hole is small enough evaded detection until now. The hole is acutally in a flat area on the boot so I believe will do nicely with a small patch.

Thanks again all for your responses.

Bob

I finaly got some time and good weather that I could try a repair of the boot. I cleaned the boot in the affected area with rubbing alcohol and a clean rag. I had a small syringe and was able to inject about 10CC's lube into the boot with out creating a bigger tear. I then clenaed again and applied some rtv and streatchable cloth to the rtv. I laid down a cover coat on the cloth and let dry. I am hoping this will work fro a while. If I find it does not I will let you all know.

Thanks Again

bob

Glad to hear back from you. More often than not, we never hear how things turn out. Please keep us posted how this fix holds out in the long run.

So long as I remember. Hopefully it will last long enough for everyone to forget there was ever a posting on this.

Bob

Thank you for the reply. Best of luck.

You are welcome

Well it has been about two months since I patched the hole in the boot so I thought I would check to see if the patch was still in place. Much to my pleasure it was.. It has gotten quite cold here in New England so my fear that the cold weather would cause problems has eased. thanks again all for your info. Happy Thanksgiving Day as well.

Bob

So it has been about a year and a half since I patched the CV boot on my 1999 Saab. I was under the car last weekend troubleshooting a starting problem and just for kicks I inspected the repair. It is still holding solid. No grease leaks. How lucky am I?

Bob

The boot looks dry because I secretly replaced the grease in your car with Folgers coffee to see if you could tell the difference.

Seriously, that is good news.

Are you sure it wasn't "Chock full of NUTS"

thanks

So I repaired the boot in October 2008. It is now 3 years down the road an the repair is still holding. The car is now up to 183K miles and still percolating. Thanks for the grounds Bob C.

Now that you are comfortably past the "will it hold" time frame, lets suggest that the next person with a Cavalier that will not run, use your technique.