1999 Geo Tracker - No Power

How about a compression test on the cylinders?

Does it burn oil?

(and how do you define "no power" .............. barely runs/can't drive OR runs but can't accelerate up a small hill?)

no it does not burn oil...and it will barely pull up and incline...it is a 5 speed...it runs pretty good on level ground ...put for some reason it seem like it not taking gas ...it sputter...

How about the air filter?

How about the fuel filter?

Check fuel pump pressure?

I assume it's fuel injected - how about running some heavy duty fuel injector cleaner through it.

well i have check the air filter and it ok...and it has a new fuel filter on it...but i will check the pressure and check on putting some heavy duty fuel injector cleaner through it ...thanks for your help

Good point John,

Back pressure is part of the air flow through an engine, and yes I also have been caught with a Renault Maxter that had a blockage in it's exhaust system.

I took it for granted (silly me) if the converter was changed the exhaust fitter would have inspected the system and advised accordingly.

Once again good point.

Hi Emma,

Engine's develop power when all 3 principles of the internal combustion process are correct and balanced. Air, Fuel, and Timing.

Reading the thread so far you have checked and changed most things that are standard service replacement items and others like the catalitic converter that are not so standard. Flushing the fuel injectors with a commercially available additive will eliminate one more possibility in the fuel system.

...it runs pretty good on level ground ...put for some reason it seem like it not taking gas ...it sputter...it runs Ok on flat ground but doesn't like when load comes on, that is often found to be timing or the timing advance controls. If the air/fuel ratio is right but the spark is not arrivimg at the precise/correct point of an engine's position for the complete combustion to occur the engine coughs and splutters with a considerable lack of power. Has the mechanic checked this out with the osciliscope.

Emma, what does your mechanic think is wrong with the vehicle?, has he taken it for a good test run himself?

The 1998 tracker had a Suzuki 1.6 liter 16 valve motor in them and if the compression is good then I would first check the timing and inspect all of the vacuum hoses as a vacuum leak will just kill the power of the motor. You can check for vacuum leaks with a can of carburetor cleaner and just spray it every where that the hoses end and also along the gaskets on the intake if there is a leak you will notice an immediate change in the way the engine is running. You also want to check the PCV valve as they can stop up and it will increase the crankcase pressure and the Suzuki engine is prone to damageing the engine seals if the pressure gets to high. Some of the vacuum hose are prone to harding and splitting. Hope this helps.

Jim

It is customary from a diagnostic stand point to retrieve the microprocessor information available from a connection point within in the car which can be done through most automotive repair facilities. Here in the USA, some large automotive parts stores offer free testing via "hand scanners". Those Suzuki based cars (as other makes) may not illuminate a check engine light unless a hard code is presented by the ECU. A hard code is set when a sensor or hard wire device fails completely. Soft codes indicate less obvious problems and are seen through these scanners only. (some soft codes may be presented by engine light illumination, yet may not re-appear when the vehicle is shut off and restarted or batter power is interrupted) Many related signal problems from sensors can create the same problem your experiencing from like the TPS not working correctly due to incorrect signal from O2, Map, IAT, MAF, crank sensor, etc. The hand scanner will show the parameters in which these sensors should be working. At an automotive shop they can look up those parameters or if the hand scanner is a more expensive Snap On or Matco model the information will be automatically displayed and will indicate which component is not operating within the correct parameters.

The read out on the scanner will also help identify anomalies within the system both mechanical or electrical related. Thus pointing you in the direction of the possible problem and or isolate the problem completely. including; improper injector pulsation rates, intake restrictions, exhaust restriction, vacuum leaks, fuel pressure problems, timing and spark problems etc. With the right person understanding the read out information of these "scanners", narrowing down the problem is much less expensive than throwing money and parts at a problem without some indication at where to start. Before any more time and money is spent, find a place to get it electronically diagnosed.

Not questioning anything you've said, which all looks very reasonable, but the exhaust problem on my (admittedly older '89) Alfa didn't show up on ECU interrogation.

In 1989 the ECU were commonly known as OBD1 and didn't have nearly the sensors and diagnostic capabilities that became available on OBD2 systems which were 1991-2 on up to 2000. Which the new systems are now often referred to as the "New Gen".

OBD2 really was not widely implemented until 1996. But your points are very good. Long before thinking about replacing a catalytic converter, an OBD scan should be performed. A good mechanic can learn a great deal about the engine's operation, particularly if the scanner reads real time data like load, O2 sensor values, etc.

Did you check the battery? How about the alternator?

Low voltage due to an electrical issue will definitely be a possibility for sputter when load is applied to the engine.

I voted "not" off-topic.

I would have the timing belt checked to see if it is worn out and jumped a noch. Some cars will idle and rev okay without a strain on the powertrain, but add resistance and the engine is powerless.

I second this post to check the timing belt. I drove a four cyl. Chevy Chevette that belonged to my then fiance, in which some Einstein replaced the timing belt a year or so previous and had it off by one tooth. That car was a dog. Would run fine at highway speeds on level ground but couldn't climb a hill to save its life. (There was one hill at Mount Lassen National Park where we couldn't even pull it in first gear and we had to back down!)

None of the usual things helped, (e.g. fuel filter, carb cleaner, air cleaner, ignition timing, plugs, distributor and rotor, good compression etc.) until we were getting ready to sell it before PCS'ing (moving) and I happened to pull the timing belt cover and checked the camshaft sprocket at TDC and noted that the little indent mark did not line up with the upper edge of the cylinder head. After loosening the belt tensioner and shifting the camshaft sprocket by one notch, that little car then ran like a raped ape. (For a Chevette anyways).

At that point it was hard to let the little car go, but we had a new(er) '87 Jetta and we were only going to take one car with us (and my two Interceptors on a trailer).

I recommend a quick check on the camshaft timing if it's not too hard to set the crankshaft at TDC, and look at the camshaft sprocket to see if the timing mark lines up with the head.

Turn the key!

Ok, just joking. But really, you need to provide more info. Why did you change the catalytic converter? It's a pretty big jump to do that from a car not starting. Did it run when you purchased it? If you went to the trouble of changing all the plugs and wires, I assume you had the battery and alternator tested first. Why change the 02 sensor?

Does the car turn over? Do you hear clicks when you turn the ignition? Have you checked for corroded or otherwise damaged wires (battery, alternator)? Does the car start and stall? Provide more info please.

OK, I see there are a bunch of responses that, for some reason didn't show up on screen when I first read your question.

So in the immortal words of Gilda Radner "never mind"!

Hello emma,

Is the fuel filter; there two, restricted or is there leak in fuel lines, they harden and leak.

I had the same problem on a 96 Tracker. The baffles in the catalytic converter rusted out and all the pellets ran into the muffler. Once the muffler was replaced, power was restored. Good luck.

It's a tracker.... it has no power. Were you driving a v10 dodge before?

Just kidding..... but how much power are you expecting from it?

I have a friend who had a similar problem with an SUV. He spent a small fortune doing all the things you have been doing with the last shop surrounding the vehicle with 5 mechanics before the problem was finally determined to be a bad fuel pump. I've had similar problems with different cars 4 times over the years and 2 out of the 4 times it was the fuel pump. Worn fuel pumps can still bring a line up to pressure but not deliver the volumn when it is needed. The other two times it was the ignition switch (go figure) and an electrical component (I believe it was the regulator or the solenoid). The electrical component initially tested out fine, but we asked the parts place to recheck it with a strain placed on it and it didn't check out good then. A plugged catalytic converter will cause that kind of problem but someone already raised that issue. A vacuum leak will cause similar problems but usually the car will stall really easy when it is idling or when you let off the gas when it has a vacuum leak. Before you spend any more money on parts however a compression check (also already mentioned) might be in order. Hope this helps.

I purchased a Jeep CJ-7 and had the same problem. Carburator used a sealed choke that had a weak spring. I pried the disk shaped cover off, djusted teh spring tension, and ZOOMED away. Just another thing to check - very simple to do - I couldn't go over 50 m.p.h. before I adjusted it.

very simple to do

... although even finding a carburetor or a choke on this fuel-injected vehicle would be very difficult.

Stop throwing parts at your problem, and diagnose it.

Check for the codes stored in the vehicle's memory. Remember that you are reading the results, not the cause. If you still have not pinpointed the problem, do a compression test, and use a vacuum gauge. Both will give lots of information. If you have not pinpointed a problem yet, it may be an airflow problem as first thought. As stated, a cat-con is not the entire exhaust system. Remove the O2 sensor, and run the car. If the power has increased, the exhaust system is badly restricted. Good luck, and test, don't guess.

Emma,

Even though bob c's answer re-states many previous comments, it does so in a very concise manner and is simply stated.

I will only add not to be fooled by 10 year old vacuum hoses that 'look' good. Try pulling one off and see if it will hold vacuum with a finger over one end and you as the vacuum source. You may be very surprised.

P.S. I'm betting on the faulty (clogged) catalytic converter for your type vehicle since they are fairly fragile devices, and may well have gotten bounced around off-road.

"Ever been fooled by a vacuum hose"

Years back to extract revenge on some of the other employees, I would remove the coil wire, and replace it with a wet vacuum hose. It would just slowly drive worse and worse till it would stall and never start again. With the original coil wire in the trunk, revenge was sweet.